2 hours and it's already sat on my drive, dead! :)

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NikTheGeek

New Member
Posts
626
Location
Wigan
Ok, got my new 2002 P38. Knew it had an iffy battery but figured what the hell, I'd replace it anyway. Got home with it, had a brew, went to set off to get a battery: flat. Went in other car to get a battery.

Swapped battery over and straight away got "keycode lockout" on the display. Waited 30 mins (see, I've been doing my research) but I can't enter it because:

1. Drivers side central locking doesn't work; and
2. Code contains a zero which apparently, it shouldn't???

So now what? I'm a bit stuck. Car-less (other one is my wifes and she's at work tomorrow). Can't take it anywhere to get it fixed coz I can't start it! If I call someone out, can it be fixed on a Testbook? Or does it have to be done by the drivers door? Can I fake the key turns by shorting a wire inside the door? Can I disconnect the alarm so it doesn't annoy the neighbours every time it goes off? Can the EKA code have a zero in it?

Any ideas?

tnx

Nik
 
Does it unlock so that you can get into it?
No zeroes - think of the logic of how you would do it.
Where are you?
Which model & year is it?

G~
 
Jan 2002 DHSE
Wigan
I can manually unlock it and get in to it ok, but the central locking doesn't work so I can't enter the code. Which was given to me by the main dealer, but somewhere else on the web it says it can't contain a zero. But another article says you can have your EKA programmed via T4 to be any 4 digit code you like! I assumed the zero would then be 10.

Anyway, I can't enter it either way....

Nik
 
My understanding is that EKA must be 4 digits 1 - 6 inclusive. They cannot all be the same.

I can't see how you could enter a zero anyway.

It is easy to panic on this. Have you started with all doors locked? Mine's older than yours but I have to do 4 anti-clockwise first. I then get the indicators flash. It is then ready to take the EKA.

Did the dealer print or write the EKA? Could the zero be a 6?

G~
 
They told it me over the phone, so they could have read it wrong from the screen I suppose. I'll have to re-phone back tomorrow.

But... I have no central locking, so I couldn't enter it anyway. It did work on the fob before I changed the battery, but doesn't know. And clearly never worked manually with the key.

So even assuming I get the right code, I'm stuck unless I call someone out with a T4 (easier said than done) or find some way of fixing up or faking the signal from the door.

And I am panicking slightly. There is only so much leave I'm allowed to take and I can't afford to hire a car to get to work! :)

tnx so far....

Nik
 
Also, could you describe your battery change-over? Did you keep the system live? Did you do the starter on-ff and disconnect within 17 seconds?

G~
 
Deep breaths. I don't think the central locking does work on the key. It is based on the fob. It does work in the final turn of the EKA.
Never repeatly try the EKA. Open the door every two or three goes to give yourself more tries. To much persistant trying can put it into a serious lock down.
I suspect that your best bet is going to be trying to sleep and getting the true EKA in the morning.

G~
 
Ok, got my new 2002 P38. Knew it had an iffy battery but figured what the hell, I'd replace it anyway. Got home with it, had a brew, went to set off to get a battery: flat. Went in other car to get a battery.

Swapped battery over and straight away got "keycode lockout" on the display. Waited 30 mins (see, I've been doing my research) but I can't enter it because:

1. Drivers side central locking doesn't work; and
2. Code contains a zero which apparently, it shouldn't???

So now what? I'm a bit stuck. Car-less (other one is my wifes and she's at work tomorrow). Can't take it anywhere to get it fixed coz I can't start it! If I call someone out, can it be fixed on a Testbook? Or does it have to be done by the drivers door? Can I fake the key turns by shorting a wire inside the door? Can I disconnect the alarm so it doesn't annoy the neighbours every time it goes off? Can the EKA code have a zero in it?

Any ideas?

tnx

Nik

Each EKA digit must be a number between 1 and 6 inclusive and all 4 numbers cannot be the same.

Are you sure the EKA code the dealer gave you is not the Radio code?

To disconnect the alarm afair you must switch the ignition to pos 2 and then off and then within 17seconds disconnect the alarm under the bonnet.As it has its own backup battery this procedure prevents it from thinking it is being stolen and tripping the alarm.

You can remove the door card and access the wiring and then short appropiate wires to enter eka code.Using the key simply operates microswitches in the latch.You will need to look in RAVE to find out which wires to use.
Hopefully someone who has done this will post the correct wires to use.
 
In that case, 2 digits are wrong. One is a zero and one is a 7 !! Hmmm, have they given me the radio code or something stupid? :)

Yep, they gave me the radio code - just found the same code in the handbook. Doh!

But... assuming I now get the right code tomorrow, how will I enter it with no central locking?

The error I made, I think, was to lock up the car with the keyfob before disconnecting the battery - force of habbit coz I went inside first...

Nik
 
Pm me if you realy stuck and ill come up to you. :) dont worry.

From Nottingham??? Wow! I appreciate the offer, but I couldn't. If you were in Liverpool or Manchester I'd bite your hand off! :) But thanks, it's appreciated...

I found this - to test for operation of the microswitches. It shows me the wires, so I'll try and figure it out from there.

Which fuse is it for the central locking? I don't think it'll be that, but best check...
 
Was the central locking working before the battery was flat?

There are 3 switches on the bottom of the unit but my mind's gone blank as to what does what! It could be it will take the EKA code but the central locking motors are stuffed. Of course, you'll need the real code.

I think we'd need someone like Datatek to confirm if this is a good idea but you could take the battery off for the night, let everything settle down then attach fresh battery in the morning and immediately sync the key-fob (turn ignition to position 2 or 3 within 30 seconds of unlocking on mine.)

J
 
On my '95 model: blue/red = key switch; green/red = central locking; purple/white = door ajar; pink/black = something to do with motors? orange/black = lock motor; orange/pink = superlocking of motor.

So the blue-red is the key-switch.

J
 
Yep, they gave me the radio code - just found the same code in the handbook. Doh!

But... assuming I now get the right code tomorrow, how will I enter it with no central locking?

The error I made, I think, was to lock up the car with the keyfob before disconnecting the battery - force of habbit coz I went inside first...

Nik

Don't worry about central locking at the moment. It doesn't function from the key until the last turn of the EKA.

G~

EDIT: Definitive answer from one of the big boys about to arrive
 
Last edited:
Was the central locking working before the battery was flat?

There are 3 switches on the bottom of the unit but my mind's gone blank as to what does what! It could be it will take the EKA code but the central locking motors are stuffed. Of course, you'll need the real code.

I think we'd need someone like Datatek to confirm if this is a good idea but you could take the battery off for the night, let everything settle down then attach fresh battery in the morning and immediately sync the key-fob (turn ignition to position 2 or 3 within 30 seconds of unlocking on mine.)

J

You can't sync the key fob until alarm is deactivated.
 
Sound like a vicar but ...

RAVE, 86-10 (page 1231 in your bible ...)

Resynchronisation
On vehicles up to 97MY, resynchronisation is
achieved by locking or unlocking the driver’s door
using the vehicle key with 30 seconds of locking,
superlocking or unlocking using the remote handset.
The BeCM monitors the condition of the driver’s door
CDL switch to initiate the resynchronisation.
On vehicles from 97MY, friendly resynchronisation
was introduced on vehicles with passive
immobilisation. A remote handset that is not
synchronised to the BeCM will automatically be
resynchronised when the key is inserted in the ignition
without using the vehicle key or Emergency Key
Access (EKA) procedure.
The resynchronisation uses a pick-up coil in the
remote handset and a passive coil located around the
ignition barrel. The passive coil provides a signal for
the remote handset to transmit an unlock signal to
remobilise the vehicle.
Emergency Key Access (EKA)
If the vehicle is locked using the remote handset and
loss or failure of the handset occurs, the vehicle can
be unlocked and the alarm disarmed by entering a
four digit code using the key in the driver’s door lock.
The code is either a unique code for the vehicle and
can be found on the security information card or a
default value obtainable from the factory.
EKA procedure - Vehicles up to 96MY
1. Unlock driver’s door with the key.
2. Open the door and the alarm sounder will sound
twice. If the key is inserted in the ignition at this
point and an attempt is made to start the engine,
the engine will not crank and the message
centre will display ’ENGINE DISABLED PRESS
REMOTE OR USE KEY CODE’.
3. Close the driver’s door and ensure that all doors,
tail door and bonnet are closed.
4. Turn the key to the lock position.
NOTE: The code cannot be entered if the
message centre displays ’KEY CODE
LOCKOUT’.
5. Enter the code as follows. At each turn of the
key to the lock or unlock position, the side lamps
warning lamp in the instrument pack will flash to
indicate that the key turn has been recognised.
6. Enter the first digit. If the first digit is 2, turn and
release the key two times in the unlock direction.
7. Enter the second digit. If the second digit is five,
turn and release the key five times in the lock
direction.
8. Enter the third digit. If the third digit is four, turn
and release the key four times in the unlock
direction.
9. Enter the fourth digit. If the fourth digit is two,
turn and release the key two times in the lock
direction.
10. Turn the key to the unlock direction and,
provided that the code has been entered
correctly, all the doors and the tail door will be
unlocked and the alarm will be partially
disarmed.
When the EKA code has been entered, the security
LED will continue to flash in deterrent mode to show
that the alarm is partially disarmed and will be
triggered if the bonnet is opened.
If the EKA code is entered incorrectly, on the final
unlock turn of the key, a mislock will sound and the
remaining doors and the tail door will remain locked
and the alarm partially armed. If five incorrect
attempts are made to enter the code, the BeCM
enters a ten minute ’lockout’ period. Further attempts
to enter the code will cause a mislock to sound each
time the key is turned. During the lockout period, the
message centre displays ’KEY CODE LOCKOUT’.
If either of the front doors are opened while entering
the code, a mislock will sound and the door will need
to be closed and key locked and the code re-entered
from the beginning. This will not count as an incorrect
entry.
With the vehicle in EKA mode, if the remote handset
unlock button is pressed all doors will be unlocked
and the alarm disarmed. The lock button will not
operate while entering the EKA code.

EKA procedure - Vehicles from 96MY
If the vehicle is locked using the remote handset and
loss or failure of the handset occurs, the vehicle can
be unlocked and the alarm disarmed by entering a
four digit code using the key in the driver’s door lock
as described in the EKA procedure for vehicles up to
96MY with the following exceptions:
1. If the vehicle had not been locked with the
remote handset, then in step 4, the key must be
turned four times to the lock position.
2. The number of incorrect attempts is reduced to
three and the lockout period increased to thirty
minutes.
 
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