2 days in n 3 error messages!!!

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2004TD4

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Location
South Bucks
Just taken the big step of pxing a 2005 BMW X5 3.0D for a RR TDV8 - amazing bit of kit- but last night I was just heading home the scenic route (small roads) to get some fuel (according to computer had 85 miles range left). Had just gone down a hill and round a roundabout when the message centre bongs and I get HDC, EMF, limited gears, and suspension lowered come up on the dash. With less than a mile to go I just nurse it to the Shell station where I could pull off the road safely on the basis it's a low fuel problem. Years back I had an A-class Merc that went into limp home mode once so I am aware that today's high tech vehicles are more computer and less mechanics. I fill up with diesel and start her up, she fires up fine, but I still got the same warnings. I nursed her about half mile down the road to a place I could pull in out of the way of traffic, and after a couple of restarts the errors cleared and I headed the 5 miles back home, all fine until I pull up to a T junction within half a mile of home when the bong goes again and the same messages flash up so I nurse her home, park up, and make a note of the messages in the fuel log book I keep (old habits die hard).

Trying not to panic I go inside and start browsing LZ for guidance and inspiration. I found one thread on a similar vane but it was related to a petrol version so being a newbie I'm not sure if it's the same or not. I've got an American diagnostic reading tool (I also have a US SUV) which I'm going to plug in and see what it comes up with, but any words of wisdom will be greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks Datatek, but I purchased it from an standalone car sales place. I do have a stealer and an indy local to me - Stealer about 1.5 miles, Indy about 3 miles. I will be phoning the place I bought it from later. It's not going anywhere at the moment - limp home mode with limited gears is OK for a short distance on local roads on a quiet Sunday evening, but I'm out venturing out in traffic. I've got full AA cover so worst cas scenario I could get them to recover it to the Indy I guess.

Been out this morning and fired her up but she's still throwing the same errors. I do hear a low pump-like noise coming from the rear which cuts out after a minute - I presume this is the air suspension compressor. The suspension control is showing the lowered setting and the HDC and Terrain Response is all inactive - that was another message that came up on the visual display - not the message centre.

Not a good start to ownership.:eek:
Still trying to stay calm.
 
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Thanks Datatek, but I purchased it from an standalone car sales place. I do have a stealer and an indy local to me - Stealer about 1.5 miles, Indy about 3 miles. I will be phoning the place I bought it from later. It's not going anywhere at the moment - limp home mode with limited gears is OK for a short distance on local roads on a quiet Sunday evening, but I'm out venturing out in traffic. I've got full AA cover so worst cas scenario I could get them to recover it to the Indy I guess.

Been out this morning and fired her up but she's still throwing the same errors. I do hear a low pump-like noise coming from the rear which cuts out after a minute - I presume this is the air suspension compressor. The suspension control is showing the lowered setting and the HDC and Terrain Response is all inactive - that was another message that came up on the visual display - not the message centre.

Not a good start to ownership.:eek:
Still trying to stay calm.

Sale of goods act, goods unfit for purpose. Applies if bought from any comercial seller. They must fix it or refund you. Don't take it to a third party or you may lose your rights.
The L322 is not known for it's reliability.:(
 
Thanks for further pointers Datatek - yes good point, need to get the seller to address the problem. The chap did tell me about an indy LR guru about 20 miles from me in Reading - Rovertune. Apparently he lives, breathes, & dreams LR. Hopefully he will get him to look at it.
 
Thanks Saint.V8 - I'll keep that in mind.

I've spoken with the dealer now and he is arranging for the vehicle to be looked at by this guru at Rovertune - tomorrow hopefully. He told me an interesting tip to get it back into normal driving mode: start her up and immediately put it in drive and pull away with some spirit, not dawdling -this appears to get the vehicle's "brain" out of limp-home-mode, drive it in this manner for about 5 minutes so that it can sort itself out, at least temporarily until you can get it to the garage and get it plugged into the diagnostics.

Well, I'm always sceptical about these things, but I give it ago anyway.
First time I try it, it didn't work because I have to manouvre to get out of my drive which has a blind entrance into a small lane, so once I'm out on the road I turn off the ignition, and on again, put it straight into drive and take off down the road. Sure enough the vehicle behaves itself perfecty - no errors come up and so I go for a little jaunt, about a 5 mile loop. I get back home, and it's still running sweet. I park up, turn off the ignition, turn it on again and wait, and sure enough the error warnings display as before. To make sure it is not a fluke I repeat the test and as before, by driving straight off and giving it some spirit, no errors are displayed.

Has anyone heard of this before?
 
Thanks for the further insight chaps!

If the rain lets up I'll go check the age of the battery and the voltage. I have both an avo and a bettery tester. If I recall correctly it should be about 14v @ 2k rpm I read in one thread.

So from what you say, just running it at a fast idle after starting should overcome the low voltage issue as well. Not something I would want to do too often with a stone cold engine though.
 
my first thoughts are low battery....

Not sure this works on the post2005 models, but have tried turning the steering full lock to full lock as on the earlier models this reset the steering angle sensor

low battery or duff alternator maybe...

+1....the 'spirited' drive gives the alternator a good turn of speed to quickly get the voltage up to prevent the systems from getting low volts after starting....

L322's hate weak batteries and iffy alternators

+2
 
Further update - first thing this morning I went out and checked the battery with an AVO and a simple battery check tool with 5 LEDs indicating the basic state of charge conditions. With nothing running the AVO showed 11.98 V and the check tool showed 0-15% charge, so definitely looks as though the battery is on it's last legs!

As expected, starting and running a fast idle of 1.5-2k rpm gives enough volts but as soon as you let it idle normally the voltage drops and the errors start appearing.

Time for a new battery, then check to make sure the alterrnator is charging properly.
Thanks for you input chaps.
 
Further update - first thing this morning I went out and checked the battery with an AVO and a simple battery check tool with 5 LEDs indicating the basic state of charge conditions. With nothing running the AVO showed 11.98 V and the check tool showed 0-15% charge, so definitely looks as though the battery is on it's last legs!

As expected, starting and running a fast idle of 1.5-2k rpm gives enough volts but as soon as you let it idle normally the voltage drops and the errors start appearing.

Time for a new battery, then check to make sure the alterrnator is charging properly.
Thanks for you input chaps.
We are happy to help, that is what makes Landyzone one of the best forums on the t'internet. :D:D:D

Keep us updated!
 
Further update - first thing this morning I went out and checked the battery with an AVO and a simple battery check tool with 5 LEDs indicating the basic state of charge conditions. With nothing running the AVO showed 11.98 V and the check tool showed 0-15% charge, so definitely looks as though the battery is on it's last legs!

As expected, starting and running a fast idle of 1.5-2k rpm gives enough volts but as soon as you let it idle normally the voltage drops and the errors start appearing.

Time for a new battery, then check to make sure the alterrnator is charging properly.
Thanks for you input chaps.
Range Rovers are highly intolerant of low battery voltage, you need to check that nothing is draining the battery when parked. You should see 14.2 to 14.4 volts at 2K rpm if the alternator is good.
Hopefully it's just a knackered battery.:)
 
Hi chaps,

well a very enlightening day!
Before heading off to Rovertune in Reading, I boosted the battery with my charger.
I have a hefty ABSAAR unit that does either 20A or 180A for starting from a deaden.
Dead handy bit of kit.
So, off I went but with the same old problem as soon as I let the revs drop - until I've been about a mile or so and then she's as sweet as pie and behaves normally.

At Rovertune, Robert puts it on the diagnostics and eventually comes over to me with a puzzled look. The system is reporting fuel pressure too high at the rails! He confirms there is no problem with the battery. He goes off to do a reset (a lift) on the fuel pump and a retest, and comes back with the news that the error is persistent. The bad news is that it means replacing the pump which entails taking the front off apparently, so it's booked in for a couple of days next week. He said the dealer is picking up the tab. I'll keep you posted.
 
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