2.5dse head gasket change - help please !

well at last I got around to doing the job, have almost dismantled but a bit stuck & need some advice.
FIRST - how do you get the damn viscous coupling undone? I have the right size (big) spanner but how to stop it turning - I tried one suggestion of jamming a rag in there but it still turned against the rag
Also, Rave says
19. Remove plastic plug from flywheel timing pin
access hole. Insert timing pin LRT-12-108.
20. Turn crankshaft clockwise until No. 1 piston is at
Top Dead Centre (TDC) on its compression
stroke. Locate timing pin into flywheel.
NOTE: TDC No. 1 indicated by camshaft
lobes of No. 1 cylinder pointing upwards.
Does this mean get it to TDC then insert the pin so as to lock the flywheel in place - and will a long thin screwdriver do to lock it in place?
It goes on the explain using the camshaft locking tool - is this necessary because the next stage is to loosten the camchain guide then lock in position ?
Many thanks in anticipation

nisbeam said:

well at last I got around to doing the job, have almost dismantled but a bit stuck & need some advice.
FIRST - how do you get the damn viscous coupling undone? I have the right size (big) spanner but how to stop it turning - I tried one suggestion of jamming a rag in there but it still turned against the rag
Also, Rave says
19. Remove plastic plug from flywheel timing pin
access hole. Insert timing pin LRT-12-108.
20. Turn crankshaft clockwise until No. 1 piston is at
Top Dead Centre (TDC) on its compression
stroke. Locate timing pin into flywheel.
NOTE: TDC No. 1 indicated by camshaft
lobes of No. 1 cylinder pointing upwards.
Does this mean get it to TDC then insert the pin so as to lock the flywheel in place - and will a long thin screwdriver do to lock it in place?
It goes on the explain using the camshaft locking tool - is this necessary because the next stage is to loosten the camchain guide then lock in position ?
Many thanks in anticipation

Click to expand...

Have you got the proper tools? If not i suggest you try to borrow them it makes life so much easier. Specially if you are unsure of what you are doing.

well, I don't have special tools:
timing pin LRT-12-108, or camshaft holding tool LRT-12-112, timing chain lever LRT-12-115, or tool LRT-12-114 to retain tensioner plunger
But I have a very full workshop with all sorts of other tools collected over many years, so could probably make do as I have often found in the past some tools are absolutely necessary, but others can be 'worked around'.
I hope not to have to do this again - but you never know so perhaps I should - can you recommend a supplier.
So while I price up the tools, can you tells me how to lock up the viscous coupling so I can get the thing undone ? At least I can go most of the way even if I do need to get some special tools. Thanks again.

nisbeam said:

well, I don't have special tools:
timing pin LRT-12-108, or camshaft holding tool LRT-12-112, timing chain lever LRT-12-115, or tool LRT-12-114 to retain tensioner plunger
But I have a very full workshop with all sorts of other tools collected over many years, so could probably make do as I have often found in the past some tools are absolutely necessary, but others can be 'worked around'.
I hope not to have to do this again - but you never know so perhaps I should - can you recommend a supplier.
So while I price up the tools, can you tells me how to lock up the viscous coupling so I can get the thing undone ? At least I can go most of the way even if I do need to get some special tools. Thanks again.

Click to expand...

Just undo it with the belt on. Spanner on nut and a sharp tap with hammer in direction fan rotates. Yes your right most things can be worked round but i would get the flywheel locking pin at least or make one. Taking the head off the only timing you can lose is the cam timing. TDC firing number one needs to be set and locked before you remove anything and not disturbed until you have it all back together. With pin in position valve lobes should form a flat V facing upwards. If you don't use the cam positioner take note or mark cam position before you remove chain. Cam may flick and need to be turned back to it's proper place when chain is refitted. You really don't want to be a tooth out believe me.

Thanks Wammers - sage advice as usual, the fan came off easily
I will make sure TDC is locked. I expect I will be able to mark the cam & will take lots of photos as well just in case. Will let you know how I get on. Thanks again, Andy.

BMW TIS has a step by step guide for lots of the things you're doing - might be useful:
BMW TIS - 11 12 100 - Removing and installing cylinder head (M51)BMW TIS - 11 12 100 - Removing and installing cylinder head (M51)

As for the viscous coupling. I presume you mean removing the full fan and coupling from the water pump.

If so I think it is a 32mm spanner. and you can adapt a bit of 1" angle to hold the bolts on the water pump. ( special tool or a long screw driver) ( dont recommend the screw driver as may shatter)

If my memory serves me right I think it is a left hand thread.

Then one sharp tap should do it.

Hopefully

Think I have the same issue as you on the head gasket issue. A lot of pressure in the system and cap venting but temp guage showing ok.

I have a complete head gasket set and head gasket and bolts if you need it,complete in the boxes ( ordered from two companies due to delivery issues around this time and was planning to send one back)
is £180 complete.

Brisca not sure about the size, but I found all you need is a big spanner on the nut, no need to touch the nuts on the pump itself. I actually used a very big adjustable that I have (it's about 2ft long). Just wack the spanner to the right & the big nut comes loose, you can then unscrew the fan assembly.

Yes, exhaust can be seen & smelt coming from the header tank. However at tickover it will be fine, only when you start to drive does it really pressurise and then overheat quite quickly. Hopefully I will know tomorrow if it is just the gasket. - I have already bought all the necessary - thanks anyway.

Jonbil - thanks for the link

Wammers, regarding TDC, RAVE says the lobes on the cam for cylinder 1 should be up, but of course they won't both be up at the same time. You mentioned they would form a V shape, is this as the attached picture ? Thanks.

nisbeam said:

Brisca not sure about the size, but I found all you need is a big spanner on the nut, no need to touch the nuts on the pump itself. I actually used a very big adjustable that I have (it's about 2ft long). Just wack the spanner to the right & the big nut comes loose, you can then unscrew the fan assembly.

Yes, exhaust can be seen & smelt coming from the header tank. However at tickover it will be fine, only when you start to drive does it really pressurise and then overheat quite quickly. Hopefully I will know tomorrow if it is just the gasket. - I have already bought all the necessary - thanks anyway.

Jonbil - thanks for the link

Wammers, regarding TDC, RAVE says the lobes on the cam for cylinder 1 should be up, but of course they won't both be up at the same time. You mentioned they would form a V shape, is this as the attached picture ? Thanks.

Click to expand...

Yes that is TDC number one firing. A shallow V. Both lobes up.

Thanks Wammers, update later today... gasket or head ???

nisbeam said:

Thanks Wammers, update later today... gasket or head ???

Click to expand...

So are you still scraching your head under the bonnet?
I'm about to do the same job today. Same problem with the "special tools" here.
What should I expect from this job? What did you encounter?

Job done but it took ages due to freezing weather & unheated garage - also... the head was cracked :-( Got the thing to bit & gasket was perfect, so took head to a local place (Swindon) who pressure tested & confirmed cracked & unrepairable. Pressure test was about £80. But I found a place on the internet & got a rebuild head complete for £500 - yes complete with all new valves & springs & new cams all built & ready to bolt on. Anyway the only special tools I HAD to buy were the cam chain tool to release the tension - cost about £35 on-line, and the special 'sockets' with slot in to remove the injectors. LR charge about £95 for this 'special tool' - I got a set of 5 in various sizes for £19 from a local motor factors. Other than that I used long screwdrivers & bit to lock those things in place. Viscous fan coupling was easy in the end. No need to lock it up just work out the way the opposite thread goes (from front right to left), fit BIG spanner then wack it with a big hammer. Cam chain tool is fiddly but easy when you find where to locate the thing. Take care for injector 4 which has a small wire attached - don't pinch the wire when you undo the injector. Good luck. By the way mine is now perfect & have done 3500 miles. It's a big job but not too bad if you are methodical.
http://www.motorsport-tools.com/ind...249856&zenid=9ad2d45d21477a7118aebd6c176fb63a
http://www.cylinderheads.co.uk/?gclid=CNnOn9-K06YCFZMK3woda1aUGw

Here are the links,
Cam Chain tool
Sealey Tensioner Lever - BMW Diesel 2.5tds VS4415 [VS4415] - - It's Free! : Motorsport-Tools.com (UK), Motorsport Tools and Equipment for Race, Rally and Car Restorers
Recon Cylinder head
Cylinder Head

Hi,

Thank you for your reply,

Yesterday I undo everything junst until the head bolts. The freaking thing is hard to unbolt:fencing:

I didn't need the lever. Instead i used a a mix of long and thin tolls that are not yet pattented.

But I did some pupu:doh: I thought the cam shaft had a woodruff key and did not mark the shaft with the sprocket. I marked the sprocket with the chain thow:doh: It's so obvious now...

If I wan't to reassemble that head again I will need to buy this:

BMW 2.5 DIESEL M51 ENGINE TIMING TOOL REPLACEMENT SET | eBay UK

Any suggestions? :welcome2:

If the engine was at TDC with the front cam lobes up (more or less), actually more of a V shape, and you then locked the flywheel in place it shouldn't matter. The important thing is that the engine wont turn and the cam will be replaced in the same position. The sprocket just bolts on the end it doesn't need to be matched to the cam.

So, the problem is this:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-81eWdH2qtCjfVwRLYFAbIiaES4l7Et_QkYRUY-cKJA?feat=directlink

Any body knows what can cause this?

OK, I guess its a bit late, but I changed the head gasket last year on my DSE.
I didnt buy any special tools.

I used drill bits for the flywheel and cam.
I also bought a socket and cut a hole in it with a grinder for the injector (so the wires go thru).

I think I have pictures somewhere if anyone is interested.

i wouldnt put that injector back in

jamesmartin said:

i wouldnt put that injector back in

Click to expand...

Can a injector do this? Why?

Supposedly all injectors were checked and returned as good enough to work. But It was a fee job with my mechanic in the middle when the head was off the first time...

Too much turbo pressure can do this?
Look at the other pistons. All of them are fine but the glow plugs are melted.
The glow plug on this punchured piston was all in one piece though.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-81eWdH2qtCjfVwRLYFAbIiaES4l7Et_QkYRUY-cKJA?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7bZBlJiV--gku5BEuZVowoiaES4l7Et_QkYRUY-cKJA?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7bZBlJiV--gku5BEuZVowoiaES4l7Et_QkYRUY-cKJA?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dGINsOx958Fk8qE2O0Vq1YiaES4l7Et_QkYRUY-cKJA?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JBMSpaKSsd-P1aNnWfAOq4iaES4l7Et_QkYRUY-cKJA?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wOY4ZTnN4e6SDBj3Vp3DfoiaES4l7Et_QkYRUY-cKJA?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sEOPNAMY6GS-wUGaiXRe_YiaES4l7Et_QkYRUY-cKJA?feat=directlink