2.5 ton paperweight??

Ah, ok, thanks for that.
This car may not become a paperweight after all, its looking more positive as time passes, This morning I removed the 'hanging on by a thread' starter motor, completely wrong bolts fitted, no nuts!!
Found a couple of suitable 'donor-bolts', cut & re-threaded to suit, & while it was off, I stripped it, skimmed the comm, & re-cut it, sorted the brushes, greased etc. refitted it, key in, ( anxious pause- what will happen )......turned the key, been sat since 2017 remember, 2 seconds cranking, cough, cough & she burst into life & seemed to run great!! WOW!! I didn't expect that.
Ran great even with all the induction pipes/tubes/ air-cleaner removed as well.

Awaiting compressor seals etc & binnacle bulbs next week , then when its jacked up high, ill have a crawl underneath & try & sus the propshaft/VCU problem.
All the tyres have plenty of tread, but badly cracked with age, so 5 new replacements will be fitted, but they are 275 section x 20" is this correct? I though they were 255. But that's for later if I can sort everything else first.

It never came with 20" rims, they likely came from an l322, if so they with have hub rings to make them fit. Do you know what you've got?

No idea I'm afraid, you can see them on the photo in my first posting.
What size should it have? My old P38 was on 16" rims. Do you think I should replace?

16 and 18 were the usual sizes i think, it was common to 'update' to 19s. Mine had 19s and i replaced them with 16s, cheaper tyres and a better choice at the time. A more forgiving ride as well.
Should you replace, that's up to you. If they don't scrub and catch and the ride is ok for you, does it matter?

kermit_rr said:

16 and 18 were the usual sizes i think, it was common to 'update' to 19s. Mine had 19s and i replaced them with 16s, cheaper tyres and a better choice at the time. A more forgiving ride as well.
Should you replace, that's up to you. If they don't scrub and catch and the ride is ok for you, does it matter?

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I don’t know about cheaper tyres any more then general grabbers on mine that you put on around £179 each by me.

Khemitude said:

I don’t know about cheaper tyres any more then general grabbers on mine that you put on around £179 each by me.

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I meant in general, though i didn't pay anywhere near that

modelman said:

No idea I'm afraid, you can see them on the photo in my first posting.
What size should it have? My old P38 was on 16" rims. Do you think I should replace?

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Personally, I would put it on 18" or 16" rims, the P38 really doesn't like rubber band tyres.
Nexen Rodians are a good price and excellent for road use.

modelman said:

No idea I'm afraid, you can see them on the photo in my first posting.
What size should it have? My old P38 was on 16" rims. Do you think I should replace?

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Better ride on the 16"

Rubberknees said:

Better ride on the 16"

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True and less steering wobble problems.

Just noticed on the car that the rear tyres are 255/45/20 & the fronts are 275/40/20.

Upon checking the tyre calculator is shows a difference of overall diameter & revolutions per mile difference.

Am I right in thinking that this may have caused a VCU failure??
Haven't got round to checking yet.

modelman said:

Just noticed on the car that the rear tyres are 255/45/20 & the fronts are 275/40/20.

Upon checking the tyre calculator is shows a difference of overall diameter & revolutions per mile difference.

Am I right in thinking that this may have caused a VCU failure??
Haven't got round to checking yet.

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Possibly. And if not, it could cause other issues.

Ideally, on any 4wd vehicle, you should have matched tyres, same make, size, and approximate wear level, on all 4 wheels.

Turboman said:

Possibly. And if not, it could cause other issues.

Ideally, on any 4wd vehicle, you should have matched tyres, same make, size, and approximate wear level, on all 4 wheels.

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As above ^^^^^^^. Very likely to have caused VCU failure and transmission wind up which usually damages the front diff.

OK, something to look at later.

Ah-HA!! The plot thickens!!
Whilst pulling all sorts of cables under the front carpet, I came across a fist sized bulge in the floor, turned out to be a hole!!
Got the jack & had a gander & saw this ripped hole, looks very much to me to be prop shaft inflicted!!
I have the shaft & it appears undamaged, put the wheel brace on a lifted wheel & the front diff flange did turn, so woja recon fellas??
I'm guessing it 'came-loose & flew off ) is that possible??

Is/was there anything there that could have been taken out whilst flailing about??

modelman said:

Is/was there anything there that could have been taken out whilst flailing about??

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That is usually a sign of a failed UJ, not uncommon if they are not greased regularly. The shaft you have may be a replacement that has never been fitted. Lucky it hasn't smashed the gearbox.

OK, thanks, ill get round to fitting it when the nuts & bolts arrive, it has the spline & gaiter one end, does it go to the front or rear, or doesn't it matter?
( Got the mallet ready for floorpan mods!! )

modelman said:

OK, thanks, ill get round to fitting it when the nuts & bolts arrive, it has the spline & gaiter one end, does it go to the front or rear, or doesn't it matter?
( Got the mallet ready for floorpan mods!! )

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There is a right and wrong way round for the prop but I can't remember which way, I'll have a look tomorrow or you will find the details in RAVE. Personally, I would not fit the prop until you have tested the VCU or you will end up with more damage. Gearbox in neutral, hand brake on put a long bar across a couple of bolts in the flange the prop bolts too. With a lot of effort, you should be able to turn the flange. If it will not turn, it is seized and the prop should not be fitted until the VCU has been replaced.

Gotcha, thanks,

Ashcrofts do refurbes VCUs but you might want to just replace the whole transfer box if you're keeping it.

The VCU should turn very slowly with steady pressure. Not sure what torque when you're directly on the output rather than turning the hub-nut but less than 80nm for sure.