2.5 ton paperweight??

modelman said:

Well the more I 'delve' into this, I'm thinking its factory, as every bit of wiring is well under all the carpets, the 'boxes' I found are crossover units, it must have been a reasonable system for its day.
My VW SEL has a Dynaudio system which looks similar, shame really as I'm practically deaf nowadays.

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I'm pretty sure that is not OEM.

Grrrrrr said:

Hope you haven't got frostbite. Bad time to need the NHS.

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Well it’s not changed a funny colour so I should be alright, it only just caught it and I moved my hand away sharpish. Feelings mostly come back in that half now so probably just a bit of nerve damage that’s slowly healing.

modelman said:

Well the more I 'delve' into this, I'm thinking its factory, as every bit of wiring is well under all the carpets, the 'boxes' I found are crossover units, it must have been a reasonable system for its day.
My VW SEL has a Dynaudio system which looks similar, shame really as I'm practically deaf nowadays.

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That doesn't look like an LR unit. According to RAVE, the Low, Mid & High Line systems all just use capacitors for the Mid or Tweeters.

- Low-Line = No door amps. Bass+Tweeter in front, and Bass only in rear doors.
- Mid-Line = No door amps. Bass+Mid+Tweeter in front, and Bass+Mid in rear doors.
- High-line = 4 x Door amps. Bass+Mid+Tweeter in front, and Bass+Mid in rear doors. 5th Amp + Subwoofer in boot.
- DSP Systems don't have door amps, but feed all speakers from the DSP unit. Speaker combo as High-Line, plus separate subwoofer amp.

If your's is different then it's either an after-market install, or maybe an LRSV special ?

pwood999 said:

That doesn't look like an LR unit. According to RAVE, the Low, Mid & High Line systems all just use capacitors for the Mid or Tweeters.

- Low-Line = No door amps. Bass+Tweeter in front, and Bass only in rear doors.
- Mid-Line = No door amps. Bass+Mid+Tweeter in front, and Bass+Mid in rear doors.
- High-line = 4 x Door amps. Bass+Mid+Tweeter in front, and Bass+Mid in rear doors. 5th Amp + Subwoofer in boot.
- DSP Systems don't have door amps, but feed all speakers from the DSP unit. Speaker combo as High-Line, plus separate subwoofer amp.

If your's is different then it's either an after-market install, or maybe an LRSV special ?

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@Khemitude

Mark Piercy said:

@Khemitude

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Well there you are, I knew some didn’t have the door amps and some did I assumed it was a case of earlier models did have them and they moved on to a better system on the newer models obviously I was wrong.

So it's likely to be aftermarket then, there ARE outstations, but NO door amps, 2 sets of heavy blue wires go into each door, I haven't figured exactly how the wiring goes, but there's a huge bundle in the head unit area, but have simply been cut, no radio plugs at all, then there's a finger-thick cable running the length of the car to each rear corner, again sheared off!
Very heavy multi colour braided cables also run from front to back with high quality gold phono type plugs as well as even more cables at the back also with phono plugs!! Plumbers nightmare !!

To be honest, I don't give a stuff about all this lot as my intention is to fit an 'ordinary' head unit & just connect it 'normally',
Can you experts out there tell me if this is possible?? Or does even the humble radio go via a computer of some sort??

My priority at the moment is to see if this thing will run, the more I 'delve' the more obstacles I come across, OK, so I seem to have got all the electrics working now, then I just found the front prop shaft under junk in the boot as I was clearing it out, why would anyone remove this ??
Stuffed gear box, or transfer box perhaps? I don't think it's the diffs as I can push it ok & the UJ's seem ok, comments please.

The green display in the binnacle are half-lit, the l/side is very difficult to see, so I cant really see the the message centre is telling me, is this fixable, ribbon or bulbs perhaps ??
Sorry for all the questions, but this forum has so much knowledge to share.
Thanks again.

Instruments probably just need new backlight bulbs.

For the radio, just see which wires they installed to the speakers, and wire them to a regular after-market head unit speaker outputs. The thick wires were probably for some extra loud install !! Any car accessory shop, eBay, amazon can provide the ISO connectors which you can splice in & solder.

modelman said:

So it's likely to be aftermarket then, there ARE outstations, but NO door amps, 2 sets of heavy blue wires go into each door, I haven't figured exactly how the wiring goes, but there's a huge bundle in the head unit area, but have simply been cut, no radio plugs at all, then there's a finger-thick cable running the length of the car to each rear corner, again sheared off!
Very heavy multi colour braided cables also run from front to back with high quality gold phono type plugs as well as even more cables at the back also with phono plugs!! Plumbers nightmare !!

To be honest, I don't give a stuff about all this lot as my intention is to fit an 'ordinary' head unit & just connect it 'normally',
Can you experts out there tell me if this is possible?? Or does even the humble radio go via a computer of some sort??

My priority at the moment is to see if this thing will run, the more I 'delve' the more obstacles I come across, OK, so I seem to have got all the electrics working now, then I just found the front prop shaft under junk in the boot as I was clearing it out, why would anyone remove this ??
Stuffed gear box, or transfer box perhaps? I don't think it's the diffs as I can push it ok & the UJ's seem ok, comments please.

The green display in the binnacle are half-lit, the l/side is very difficult to see, so I cant really see the the message centre is telling me, is this fixable, ribbon or bulbs perhaps ??
Sorry for all the questions, but this forum has so much knowledge to share.
Thanks again.

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Front prop removal will be due to the VCU having seized. It may also have blown the front diff.
The binnacle display problem is most likely just a bulb needs replacing.

Thanks very much for that, since the car 'pushes' ok I'm inclined to think that the diff may be ok?
Does the VCU simply unbolt & pull out?
I DID just find the original radio plugs buried deep inside the housing, there are NO door-amps so do you thing my aftermarket FM/Dab radio with fit?
Just pulled the door speakers, they look to be reasonable quality. plastic coned 'MB-Quart' brand, Germany, the crossover boxes are the same. The original speaker wires & plugs are still in the doors, so maybe??? What do you think?

Are you saying that the green matrix display is backlit then?

myfirstl322 said:

Extra batteria?

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Inverter ?

yip and a couple on w5w bulbs as well. If your pulling the clocks do all the bulbs

Dippypud said:

Inverter ?

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Won't everything fall onto the headliner then though?

myfirstl322 said:

Won't everything fall onto the headliner then though?

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Not if you ship it to Australia first.

modelman said:

Are you saying that the green matrix display is backlit then?

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Yes

modelman said:

Thanks very much for that, since the car 'pushes' ok I'm inclined to think that the diff may be ok?
Does the VCU simply unbolt & pull out?
I DID just find the original radio plugs buried deep inside the housing, there are NO door-amps so do you thing my aftermarket FM/Dab radio with fit?
Just pulled the door speakers, they look to be reasonable quality. plastic coned 'MB-Quart' brand, Germany, the crossover boxes are the same. The original speaker wires & plugs are still in the doors, so maybe??? What do you think?

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Just because you can push the car does not mean the diff is OK. Drain the oil and look for bits of metal.
If I remember rightly, without getting under the car to look, the cross member is in the way, other than that, changing the VCU is pretty easy.

OK, thanks yet again, ill get round to pulling the binnacle later & have a look.
Back in '83 I lived & worked in Dubai & I rebuilt the V8 engine completely & also F & R diffs on my classic RR, no VC on that, but I seem to remember another diff in the transfer box, or is my memory failing me in my old age !!
I must have been young/strong/stupid in those days as the battery used to dry out due the heat & I used to push & bump-start it on the desert sand !!!

modelman said:

OK, thanks yet again, ill get round to pulling the binnacle later & have a look.
Back in '83 I lived & worked in Dubai & I rebuilt the V8 engine completely & also F & R diffs on my classic RR, no VC on that, but I seem to remember another diff in the transfer box, or is my memory failing me in my old age !!
I must have been young/strong/stupid in those days as the battery used to dry out due the heat & I used to push & bump-start it on the desert sand !!!

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Yes, there is a centre diff in the transfer box. The function of the VCU is to act as a diff lock when there is a rotational difference between front and rear axles. It fits across the 2 splined shafts you can see at the left of the photo, the inner concentric shaft being a forward extension of the rear output shaft.

Great, thanks.

modelman said:

Can anyone explain why as soon as a battery is connected the BeCM is 'armed' & the dash-top led starts flashing??

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I think that the BECM remembers the alarm state if the battery is removed. It's a security feature of course.