2.5 Rear Crank seal changed now leaking

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Rob 90

Rob 90

Active Member
Posts
93
Location
Suffolk
Just changed my rear crank seal while I was changing the gearbox for a recon.
I changed it for the same type that came off that was the Dowty seal type which had a nylon sleeve to assist fitting. Got it all back together and the new seal was p***ing oil out. Just got the gearbox off again and removed the new seal expecting to find it crimped or split but cannot see any obvious signs of damage.
Has anyone had any issues with this? I have noticed there are two different types of seal you can use anyone know which type is best to use?
 
Can't remember I got it on ebay from UKLandroverSpares
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Rob 90 said:
Just changed my rear crank seal while I was changing the gearbox for a recon.
I changed it for the same type that came off that was the Dowty seal type which had a nylon sleeve to assist fitting. Got it all back together and the new seal was p***ing oil out. Just got the gearbox off again and removed the new seal expecting to find it crimped or split but cannot see any obvious signs of damage.
Has anyone had any issues with this? I have noticed there are two different types of seal you can use anyone know which type is best to use?
Click to expand...

How did you fit it? I know that sounds daft, but they are easy to get wrong by making the most innocent of little mistakes!

See here: https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/err-2532-rear-oil-seal-c2x21124150

I do suspect your's was too cheap to be genuine.
 
I fitted it into the flywheel housing first, put the nylon fitting sleeve into the seal with a bit of oil on it and then installed the plate onto the engine block.
I must admit it did give more resistance than I thought it would when pushing over the fitting sleeve.
 
Discomania
Cheers looking at the link you sent It was a cheep replacement, for the saving of £25 has cost me a weekends work.
 
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Rob 90 said:
I fitted it into the flywheel housing first, put the nylon fitting sleeve into the seal with a bit of oil on it and then installed the plate onto the engine block.
I must admit it did give more resistance than I thought it would when pushing over the fitting sleeve.
Click to expand...

I suspect the oil on it is your problem.

They should have a teflon coating, add oil and you created a film of oil between the crank and seal - thus it will leak!

Another thing to bear in mind is the bearing surface of the crank on the seal lip - when you fitted the new one did you ensure it sat in exactly the same place, an unworn or "unpolished" section of the crank that did not have the seal on it before will be rough as get out with light surface rust or grime and will abrade the seal rendering it useless.
 
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Pretty sure you have to make sure the seal lip and the shaft it runs on are bone dry when fitting it.
 
Ahh nice one thanks for that hopefully that was the problem then, will also use a quality part this time.
 
if posabel always start engine befor you put gear box back to check I used to allways hanke engine on crane connect to water supply run it for at least half an hour to prove no leaks had acat engine once new crank genuine cat rear main seal it leaked no signs of damage second seal fine
 
8ha
Good idea would save a lot of work I am doing it with the engine in so should be easy enough to run once I get the flywheel back on.
I have the sump resting on blocks so just need to make sure they don't rattle free. Cheers
 
There was no gasket I checked in the land rover manual and it says use silicon sealant.
I checked on removal of the housing and this had made a good seal no evidence of leaking past.
In fact I ended up using silicon on starter motor / clutch cylinder / clutch bellhousing to flywheel housing as I do a lot of wading in winter but was a right pain to take them all off again.
 
Rob 90 said:
There was no gasket I checked in the land rover manual and it says use silicon sealant.
I checked on removal of the housing and this had made a good seal no evidence of leaking past.
In fact I ended up using silicon on starter motor / clutch cylinder / clutch bellhousing to flywheel housing as I do a lot of wading in winter but was a right pain to take them all off again.
Click to expand...
there was allways an issue with oil leaks between block and flywheel housing, on the 200 tdi they used a gasket ,this if bottoms cut off is useful on the earlier engines, attention is needed around the rear main bearing cap joints
 
Thanks so if I get a 200tdi gasket it will fit my 2.5NA.
Would it be worth using some gasket sealant as well as the gasket then?
It did always leak slightly down the back of the housing I always though it was the sump gasket.
 
Rob 90 said:
Thanks so if I get a 200tdi gasket it will fit my 2.5NA.
Would it be worth using some gasket sealant as well as the gasket then?
It did always leak slightly down the back of the housing I always though it was the sump gasket.
Click to expand...
likewise there are the main bearing cap joins there so ensure they are covered in gasket or silicone
 
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