2.5 N/A symptoms
- Thread starter tivrulez
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tombardier
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- F.O.D, UK.
Hah, mine didn't have a working fuel gauge when I bought it either. I ran out of fuel once, and thought the head gasket had gone because the engine started running away with itself up to almost 4000 revs by the sound of it. If you turned the ignition off, it switched off ok, and I started it again and it was still doing the same thing, but without a fuel gauge, I couldn't tell if I'd run out. Ended up me and a friend rocking the whole landy and listening for the lack of fuel in the tank 
Got some more diesel, reprimed the system, and she's been fine every since
Just interested in whether you've ever had the same thing on this engine?
Got some more diesel, reprimed the system, and she's been fine every since Just interested in whether you've ever had the same thing on this engine?
There is no set speed and engine revs. The idea is not to work the engine hard, so easy acceleration, change up so that it doesnt labour and just poodle about everywhere.
Just drive like yu are expecting to run out of fuel and get gearbox failure any minute
Roughly for how long should i do this?
Been almost 2 weeks now
pos
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- 3,685
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- West Yorkshire
Roughly for how long should i do this?
Been almost 2 weeks now
Heloo (I'm back off my holiday now!) Running in older engines is often debated as people have different opinions on what is the right and wrong thing to do. Generally speaking newer engines don't need extensive running in periods, if any, because they're built to such precision that the amount of wear needed to make the pistons "fit" is barely worth troubling yourself about. Older engines like the 2.5 N/A are old hat in terms of engine build technology and therefore required that little bit of extra input from the driver.
When I rebuilt my N/A, I was advised (by my local landy specialist) to run the engine in to a fairly set regime:-
1) Coat the bores with cheap mineral oil before total re-assembly
2) Fire up the engine and alternate the revs from high to low continuously over a period of ten minutes or so, then switch off.
3) Apply a large load to your landy (ie. a laden trailer / load space or bricks)
4) Drive a trip of about 100 miles or so steadily and work the engine in higher gears (ie. lower revs but more strain)
Other people will tell you to be very soft on the engine. In my opinion there can't be anything wrong with giving it some work, it'll help wear the engine in that bit quicker.
From a scientific point of view (in terms of engine wear) I can only assume that running in time is the arguable factor. Either way, the engine is running, the harder it's worked, the quicker it wears in.
-Pos
hi pos, thanks for your reply
Well I did a lot of short trips, plus a long trip on a hilly route. Roughly covered 440kms (According to the speedo). Didnt even touch the aircon. So i guess thats about enough eh?
But there is oil sputtering out of the lid, not as before, just a few drops. All the other leaks have stopped.
But I'm not sure about the oil levels on the dipstick.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/dipstick-level-2-5-n-82518.html
I put up this thread, waiting for replies.
Well I did a lot of short trips, plus a long trip on a hilly route. Roughly covered 440kms (According to the speedo). Didnt even touch the aircon. So i guess thats about enough eh?
But there is oil sputtering out of the lid, not as before, just a few drops. All the other leaks have stopped.
But I'm not sure about the oil levels on the dipstick.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/dipstick-level-2-5-n-82518.html
I put up this thread, waiting for replies.
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