2.5 n/a leak from injector pump

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JohnPort

Member
Posts
15
Location
portugal
Hi there,

my old defender failed it's MOT on a small drip leak from the bottom of the CAV injector pump. Having had a look from underneath with the engine running it seems to be seeping out from the seam\join where the fuel line in plate bolts on to the main body of the pump. I have disconnected the injector lines and taken them off, then I removed that little plate held on with four bolts, then finally disconnected the fuel line and took off the actual part that the fuel goes in to (held on with four small bolts). I was hoping to find a broken gasket, or a perished seal but on mine there was nothing - just two flush circular metal plates. Is there meant to be a gasket here? If it is leaking from here, what are my options? There was some discoloration on the inner part, as if the plates are not 100% flush. I really don't want to get into taking the pump off as it means removing the timing belt etc.. and i'm not sure how to go about that..!

Cheers, John

PS. I refitted everything back and tightened it all up and it still leaks, although maybe a bit slower.
PPS. What a complete bastard to start after the fuel lines have been drained.
 
Hi there,

my old defender failed it's MOT on a small drip leak from the bottom of the CAV injector pump. Having had a look from underneath with the engine running it seems to be seeping out from the seam\join where the fuel line in plate bolts on to the main body of the pump. I have disconnected the injector lines and taken them off, then I removed that little plate held on with four bolts, then finally disconnected the fuel line and took off the actual part that the fuel goes in to (held on with four small bolts). I was hoping to find a broken gasket, or a perished seal but on mine there was nothing - just two flush circular metal plates. Is there meant to be a gasket here? If it is leaking from here, what are my options? There was some discoloration on the inner part, as if the plates are not 100% flush. I really don't want to get into taking the pump off as it means removing the timing belt etc.. and i'm not sure how to go about that..!

Cheers, John

PS. I refitted everything back and tightened it all up and it still leaks, although maybe a bit slower.
PPS. What a complete bastard to start after the fuel lines have been drained.

First off, be absolutely sure that the diesel is leaking where you think, diesel is notorious for running to other areas. Degrease and wash the pump thoroughly, and let it dry, then start up again.

Where I think you are talking about is not a leak I have commonly seen, but that only means I haven't seen it, not that it doesn't happen.

Restarting shouldn't be a problem if only the injector lines have been drained, just crack open a couple of unions at the injector ends, get an assistant to crank the engine, and tighten the unions while the engine is turning, it should start easily if all else is working well. It may be that you have let air into the pump body by removing bits, in which case the pump body and governor housing should be bled first, using the bleed screws and lift pump.

If you do need to remove the pump, it is an easy job using a pulley holder. Google them for your engine, they are readily available, and not a lot of money,
 
Hi there,

my old defender failed it's MOT on a small drip leak from the bottom of the CAV injector pump. Having had a look from underneath with the engine running it seems to be seeping out from the seam\join where the fuel line in plate bolts on to the main body of the pump. I have disconnected the injector lines and taken them off, then I removed that little plate held on with four bolts, then finally disconnected the fuel line and took off the actual part that the fuel goes in to (held on with four small bolts). I was hoping to find a broken gasket, or a perished seal but on mine there was nothing - just two flush circular metal plates. Is there meant to be a gasket here? If it is leaking from here, what are my options? There was some discoloration on the inner part, as if the plates are not 100% flush. I really don't want to get into taking the pump off as it means removing the timing belt etc.. and i'm not sure how to go about that..!

Cheers, John

PS. I refitted everything back and tightened it all up and it still leaks, although maybe a bit slower.
PPS. What a complete bastard to start after the fuel lines have been drained.

Forgot. If it has a CAV pump, it is unlikely to be a Defender, more likely a Ninety or One Ten.
 
Thanks for that. I will have a look for the pulley holder. It has been a real sod to start as the leak is letting in air when the Landy is stood without running - this time it had stood for a couple of days and the fuel must have drained back down towards the fuel tank.

The Land Rover itself is a 1987 ex MOD LHD 110 Defender. Cheers.
 
Thanks for that. I will have a look for the pulley holder. It has been a real sod to start as the leak is letting in air when the Landy is stood without running - this time it had stood for a couple of days and the fuel must have drained back down towards the fuel tank.

The Land Rover itself is a 1987 ex MOD LHD 110 Defender. Cheers.

If the two pieces of metal are machined, have you tried some form of liquid gasket? Maybe hylomar or RTV?
 
Thanks for that. I will have a look for the pulley holder. It has been a real sod to start as the leak is letting in air when the Landy is stood without running - this time it had stood for a couple of days and the fuel must have drained back down towards the fuel tank.

The Land Rover itself is a 1987 ex MOD LHD 110 Defender. Cheers.

As far as I know, Defenders were not made until 1990. I am not certain, because my knowledge of military vehicles is limited, but I think that is a 1987 ex MOD One Ten.
When the vehicle has been left standing for a while, try pumping with the hand primer on the lift pump before cranking, to try and expel any air that has got in. Might make starting easier.

If the two pieces of metal are machined, have you tried some form of liquid gasket? Maybe hylomar or RTV?

Sealant is not recommended on injection pumps, as it may get inside the pump, and destroy it.
 
As far as I know, Defenders were not made until 1990. I am not certain, because my knowledge of military vehicles is limited, but I think that is a 1987 ex MOD One Ten.
When the vehicle has been left standing for a while, try pumping with the hand primer on the lift pump before cranking, to try and expel any air that has got in. Might make starting easier.



Sealant is not recommended on injection pumps, as it may get inside the pump, and destroy it.

UPDATE - just to say there is a seal in there. With the pump still attached to the engine it is a bit tricky to see as it is recessed into a groove on the pump body and you can only really see it by using a mirror, but there is a rubber seal. So anyone else having this problem it is possible to fix without having to remove the injector pump and disturb the timing belt.
 
UPDATE - just to say there is a seal in there. With the pump still attached to the engine it is a bit tricky to see as it is recessed into a groove on the pump body and you can only really see it by using a mirror, but there is a rubber seal. So anyone else having this problem it is possible to fix without having to remove the injector pump and disturb the timing belt.

Can you post any pics of exactly where the seal is? I suspect that if you are having trouble seeing the part, you will struggle to change it with the pump in situ.

And is there a fuel injection specialist near you? You will need to get the seal from such a place anyway, and they might advise you on the job when they supply the part.

As I commented before, it isn't actually necessary to disturb the timing belt to remove the pump, provided you get hold of a pulley holder.
 
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