2.5 DSE Engine Diagnostic Fault finding help (Nano Evo2)

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jerrytlr said:
Hi eloteq - did you ever get a resolution from Nanocom to this needle lift rpm issue?

Cheers,

Jerry
Click to expand...

Jerry, I've not heard any more off Nanocom since their initial response.

I posted the problem also on their new user forum as a warning to other users, but again it has received no response.

I have just downloaded the new 1.09 update but it doesn't state if the P38a EDC is updated; I haven't had time to try the device since.

My only concern before was I went out & paid £180 for new sensor, when in fact nothing was wrong with it.:amen:
 
eloteq said:
Hi Jerry, Yes I stated that I'd posted my faults on this forum (provided Link), and stated other member had same results. The email I sent them was:-

"I posted my results on Landyzone forum & another member checked on his vehicle & it was same as mine. I wondered if it was a firmware error or something else. I've attached EDC inputs SWITCH file........."

As for for the high/low on alarm - i'm not sure what it means. I hope I'm not looking for thing - but how would we know if it was Evo 2 error?????? only by us comparing results. I have other error code.

BBS replied "We wil certainly look into the issue reported with the Needle lift sensor
but with regards the faults we are unable to give further information on
these as we can only interpret codes from given details from the ecu
manufacturer and some codes are generated in vehicles by system noise or
other factors that have no effect on the actual running of the vehicle. As
you can imagine, without diagnostic equipment the majority of vehicle
owners never even know there is a fault logged when the vehicle is running
as it should."

So I believe it's prob firmaware - lets see what happens.

cheers Matt
Click to expand...

Sorry it's taken a while to get round to this. Checked mine today. Inputs say:

Idle;low Idle;Needle(rpm);Crank speed(rpm);Road speed(kmh);Road speed(mph);ELAB;Alarm status;Primary brake;Secondary brake;Aircon requested;Aircon grant;Clutch
HIGH;HIGH;3753.75;1160.25;0;0;;;LOW;;;LOW;
LOW;HIGH;3753.75;728.00;0;0;HIGH;HIGH;LOW;HIGH;LOW;LOW;LOW

Apologies for duff formatting but you can see that my needle reading is exactly the same as yours and is static.

G~
 
Hey Guys, Just an update.

No fix as yet for Nanocom Evolution 2.

Emailed July & August & got response:-


Hi

There were a few things that got fixed in the V1.11 Firmware but not sure if the development team ever got to the bottom of this issue. I will raise it again but if you have upgraded to V1.11 Firmware and it is still freezing at 3753.75 rpm then please let me know

and August:-


We have a fix for this but currently waiting to test it before releasing it.

AS for the car, since changing the Mass Airflow Sensor for a genuine part, it's worked great. Cold start still sometimes an issue, odd six monthly Gearbox warning, and the occasional smell of burnt oil which I think originates from the crap breather system.

Otherwise the Rangie is great, I love working on it & driving it; when my wife lets me!:ballchain:
 
eloteq said:
Hey Guys, Just an update.

No fix as yet for Nanocom Evolution 2.

Emailed July & August & got response:-


Hi

There were a few things that got fixed in the V1.11 Firmware but not sure if the development team ever got to the bottom of this issue. I will raise it again but if you have upgraded to V1.11 Firmware and it is still freezing at 3753.75 rpm then please let me know

and August:-


We have a fix for this but currently waiting to test it before releasing it.

AS for the car, since changing the Mass Airflow Sensor for a genuine part, it's worked great. Cold start still sometimes an issue, odd six monthly Gearbox warning, and the occasional smell of burnt oil which I think originates from the crap breather system.

Otherwise the Rangie is great, I love working on it & driving it; when my wife lets me!:ballchain:
Click to expand...

Cold start issue and gearbox warning is an indication of a weak battery and perhaps alternator:)
 
Datatek said:
Cold start issue and gearbox warning is an indication of a weak battery and perhaps alternator:)
Click to expand...

Cheers for that. Yes I replaced battery for a new one. Going to try alternator next.

From looking on here and other forums, I thought cold start was an age old issue to do with worn engine/timing chain.

:scratching_chin:Just out of interest, has anybody done anything with the rocker cover breather as this seems to direct oil into the intake. I know Land Rover always says it;s within tollerences but is seems a crap system. I wondered weather I could detach & either replace with another type or stick pipe in loop to chassis?
 
eloteq said:
Cheers for that. Yes I replaced battery for a new one. Going to try alternator next.

From looking on here and other forums, I thought cold start was an age old issue to do with worn engine/timing chain.

:scratching_chin:Just out of interest, has anybody done anything with the rocker cover breather as this seems to direct oil into the intake. I know Land Rover always says it;s within tollerences but is seems a crap system. I wondered weather I could detach & either replace with another type or stick pipe in loop to chassis?
Click to expand...

Hot start is a timing issue not cold start. Inadequate battery size is the usual problem with cold starts, you need at least 900CCA 90AH. Mine has 1000CCA 135AH and spins like a top.
The breather assembly is I believe a service replaceable item.:)
 
eloteq said:
Cheers for that. Yes I replaced battery for a new one. Going to try alternator next.

From looking on here and other forums, I thought cold start was an age old issue to do with worn engine/timing chain.

:scratching_chin:Just out of interest, has anybody done anything with the rocker cover breather as this seems to direct oil into the intake. I know Land Rover always says it;s within tollerences but is seems a crap system. I wondered weather I could detach & either replace with another type or stick pipe in loop to chassis?
Click to expand...

Inside the cam cover there is a wire gauze oil separator that is part of the breather system, it is supposed to remove oil from the mist and drip it back into engine. If that is clogged up you will get excess oil mist coming through breather. They never work 100% well at the best of times specially on a motor that has done a few miles, that is why oil in the turbo pipes is normal.
 
Datatek said:
Hot start is a timing issue not cold start. Inadequate battery size is the usual problem with cold starts, you need at least 900CCA 90AH. Mine has 1000CCA 135AH and spins like a top.
The breather assembly is I believe a service replaceable item.:)
Click to expand...

Yes sorry, I meant Hot start, my battery is a 90 A.

What I mean is, from cold (after glow plugs) starts on turn of button. From hot, it always starts but just takes a few more revolutions than cold. I thought it was maybe in-tank pump, or worn diesel pump or slack timing chain? I saw there is a hot start fix on ebay fooling engine it's cold etc., but the correct fix is what you'd want.

It's not a major problem at the moment as it always starts, but not as good as new. I noticed on the Nanocom Evo2 was a pump calibration setting page; has anyone tried any minor adjustments?

wammers said:
Inside the cam cover there is a wire gauze oil separator that is part of the breather system, it is supposed to remove oil from the mist and drip it back into engine. If that is clogged up you will get excess oil mist coming through breather. They never work 100% well at the best of times specially on a motor that has done a few miles, that is why oil in the turbo pipes is normal.
Click to expand...

Thanks wammers, I was not sure what was happening. I'll have to get rocker gasket kit & clean it all out.

I've just replaced my front wheel bearings, front prop & UJ's, Panhard bushes, track rod arm & drag links, new Terafirma shock etc., all due to 55mph death wobbles & vibration at 70-80mph speed. I understand that the motor is 150k miles worn, so prob needs few things doing. Every new part & stage improves handling but I've got the radius arm bushes to do next. I have a 20 ton press and my brothers company going to make jig for bushes. I know the approx diameter of the new bush is 62mm ish, but does anyone know that actual diameter of the hole on the Radius arm?

Cheers for the advice:)
 
eloteq said:
Yes sorry, I meant Hot start, my battery is a 90 A.

What I mean is, from cold (after glow plugs) starts on turn of button. From hot, it always starts but just takes a few more revolutions than cold. I thought it was maybe in-tank pump, or worn diesel pump or slack timing chain? I saw there is a hot start fix on ebay fooling engine it's cold etc., but the correct fix is what you'd want.

It's not a major problem at the moment as it always starts, but not as good as new. I noticed on the Nanocom Evo2 was a pump calibration setting page; has anyone tried any minor adjustments?



Thanks wammers, I was not sure what was happening. I'll have to get rocker gasket kit & clean it all out.

I've just replaced my front wheel bearings, front prop & UJ's, Panhard bushes, track rod arm & drag links, new Terafirma shock etc., all due to 55mph death wobbles & vibration at 70-80mph speed. I understand that the motor is 150k miles worn, so prob needs few things doing. Every new part & stage improves handling but I've got the radius arm bushes to do next. I have a 20 ton press and my brothers company going to make jig for bushes. I know the approx diameter of the new bush is 62mm ish, but does anyone know that actual diameter of the hole on the Radius arm?

Cheers for the advice:)
Click to expand...

Hole is i think 60mm new bushes should be around 61.5mm. You can get them out by drilling down the side to weaken the outer shell then knock them out. If you make a plate that clears the centre boss so your not pushing on it. Clean the hole and lube it with a little grease then turn a slight chamfer on one end of the bush. Providing you get it square it should press in no trouble. No need for tool.
 
wammers said:
Hole is i think 60mm new bushes should be around 61.5mm. You can get them out by drilling down the side to weaken the outer shell then knock them out. If you make a plate that clears the centre boss so your not pushing on it. Clean the hole and lube it with a little grease then turn a slight chamfer on one end of the bush. Providing you get it square it should press in no trouble. No need for tool.
Click to expand...

Wammers - you're a star mate. You certainly know your stuff. Here's us inexperienced lot going straight for the hard complex approach when sometimes the solution is easy & before your very eyes. I'll give that a go.

We owe you :beer2::beer2::beer2:
 
eloteq said:
Wammers - you're a star mate. You certainly know your stuff. Here's us inexperienced lot going straight for the hard complex approach when sometimes the solution is easy & before your very eyes. I'll give that a go.

We owe you :beer2::beer2::beer2:
Click to expand...

Care required though. Good luck.
 
Quick update!

I've just tested a Nanocom Evolution firmware beta BBSV1-12.

It appears to have fixed the needle lift sensor RPM issue.

Also, all other modules working as they should.

Hopefully they'll release it soon to others. :dance:
 
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