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1996 RR 4.0 SE hard to stop, pump keeps running

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by Rover9676, Oct 7, 2019.

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  1. Rover9676

    Rover9676 Member

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    Hello all, I'm new to forum. I live in the United States -Michigan. I have a 1996 Range Rover 4.0 SE.. Had been sitting garage for 4 years. Got it started and it ran great.. Then the brakes stopped working as they should and the abs pump continues to run.. I've been trouble shooting for awhile with no luck. I replaced the abs relay, swapped the accumulator, changed the pressure switch and bled brakes according to RAVE.. HOWEVER, near the end of the bleed process when I turn on the key charge the system the buzzing in end abs pump doesn't stop running.. All help is greatly appreciated!
    Rover9676
     
  2. kermit_rr

    kermit_rr Well-Known Member

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    Hi and welcome! If I've not said it before
    When you say it won't stop pumping, how long have you left it? Are you making sure the reservoir doesn't get too low?
    You've changed the pressure switch. But is the connector/wire good?
    If it's not getting up to pressure them I'd assume there's still air somewhere
     
  3. RangeRoller dt

    RangeRoller dt Well-Known Member

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    Watch the fluid level, if it goes down ; fluid out = air in.

    Guessing you have auto
    They can be a nightmare to bleed all the air out.

    There’s quite a few threads in searchbar
     
  4. Rover9676

    Rover9676 Member

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    Good morning or afternoon! First Thank You very much for replying. I let the pump run for up to 8 minutes or so. I make sure the reservoir stays full. It's an automatic. I haven't check the connector wire, I'm not good at electical but can learn. I searched the threads for about 2 hours last night but didn't recognize my issues with those posts. I awakened this morning thinking it may be electrical so this morning I'm going to take it off the Jack-stands and drive with the abs relay in and relay out to check the brakes. Wife has been pumping pedal while I bleed the system.

    Also I noticed when I turn key to run the pump, the brake fluid in the reservoir goes down and when turn off the the fluid in the reservoir rises back to maximum. How would I check the connector wire?
    Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
     
  5. kermit_rr

    kermit_rr Well-Known Member

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    The level should be at max once the system is pressurised, then go above max as the system depressurises
     
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  6. RangeRoller dt

    RangeRoller dt Well-Known Member

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    Level should be checked when pump stops running read this -

     
  7. Rover9676

    Rover9676 Member

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    Checked fluid levels and lights, okay. I'm trying to determine what's causing my pump to run. Do you think I still have air in the lines? How can I rule out the accumulator and master brake cylinder? There are no leaks anywhere vacuum or fluid. How do I check the abs pump connector wire? The red-brake light located
    on in the right side of the Dash is on. I never knew there was a hand-brake lamp. Where is it located?
    Thanks for responding!
     
  8. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Jedwood Spannerhands

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    Have you changed the accumulator? Black bulb thing near the pump?

    If air has got in the modulator it can be a pig to get out. I've pushed 2 or 3 litres through in the past when fitting a new one to get all the air out. Never had a pump go that long though so suspect accumulator. Or maybe the pump itself is no longer pressuring the system but they're big bucks.
     
  9. Rover9676

    Rover9676 Member

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    Sounds like I got air in the modulator (Master Cylinder Block). 1st I bought a Pressure Switch and swapped it out. 2nd I bought an abs pump with accumulator. 3rd I swapped out the old accumulator and bleed. 4th I changed out the abs pump and bled. 5th I put the purchased accumulator back on the pump it was purchased with and bled. 6th I bought a new abs-relay.
    Grrr it sounds like I just have a modulator full of air that needs to bled according to RAVE, until I get all the air out.
    Any and All to help RESOLVE this issue is greatly Appreciated.
    Thank you,
     
  10. Mark Piercy

    Mark Piercy Well-Known Member

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    Hey there, just follow the bleeding procedure to the T and that'll rule out air. I did mine with a power bleeder and it worked really well but following procedure is the key.
    :D
     
  11. Rover9676

    Rover9676 Member

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    How many times do you think I have to bleed the system to get rid of the air?
    Thanks
     
  12. Western Slope Rover

    Western Slope Rover Well-Known Member

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    Welcome to the forum. I'm in Colorado and this thread makes me glad that the brake system on my 95 is working.
    Good luck.

    The folks here will help you immensely.
     
  13. RangeRoller dt

    RangeRoller dt Well-Known Member

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    Took me few tries get the clutch pedal feel back. Just follow RAVE thoroughly and keep bleeding, be prepared to give it another go ;)
     
  14. Rover9676

    Rover9676 Member

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    Thanks, it's an automatic 1996 RR 4.0 SE. I will bleed the system again today and let you know how it goes.
    Much appreciated!!!
     
  15. Mark Piercy

    Mark Piercy Well-Known Member

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    Normally just once buddy. But....:p
     
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  16. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    I bled my rear brakes when i did the calipers, in a weird way ;)
     
  17. kermit_rr

    kermit_rr Well-Known Member

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    Are you sure everything is done up right and not letting air in somewhere?
     
  18. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Jedwood Spannerhands

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    I found an Ezibleed kit good for pumping through the modulator before starting on the brakes themselves. Just push a litre or so through to be sure. There should be no bubbles coming out. Top up very regularly as air gets sucked in if it drops a bit.
     
  19. Rover9676

    Rover9676 Member

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    Grrr thanks! I took it off the stands to take it for a drive to rest the pedal. When I started the RR I heard a kind of loud shhhhhh when I pressed the brake inside the car. I traced the shhhhh to the brake-pedal switch with the attached vacuum hose from the intake plenum. When I press the brake pedal with car running the shhhhh was continuous. So I took down the duct work, started the RR, press the brake pedal with one hand and pushed the brake switch valve in withers other hand and the shhhhh stops. The vacuum hose does not have any leaks. So vacuum is coming out of the switch from the plastic stem that contacts the brake pedal. When the pedal is depressed the stem comes out. when take your foot-off the pedal the stem is pushed back into the switch. I never heard shhhhh from the pedal before, so I guess that brake switch is broken. Also, on the drive I got the shhhhh when I depressed the brake pedal and the vehicle was hard difficult to stop, but pedal would go fro. Spongy to hard and require going almost to floor to stop. I then pulled the abs relay and braking got a lot worse. So I guess the abs pump is working and pressure is escaping from the brake-pedal switch vacuum-connected. I also disconnected the vacuum hose from the brake pedal switch, covered the hose with my finger and pressed the pedal with the other hand while the RR was running and no shhhhh. All advice is helpful and appreciated.
    Thanks, you all very helpful. I'm now hopeful I will eventually resolve this brake issue.
     
  20. Rover9676

    Rover9676 Member

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    I will look for an enabled. Where do I connect it on the modulator?
    Thanks
     
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