1996 Discovery tdi cut out and now wont fire

J Masters said:

also engine light is only on when the key is turned to first position and then goes off when you crank it

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That's not right - now, it might just be the way you have explained it... BUT, the process for EDC self test is:- key to position II - Check engine light and glowplug light* will illuminate. EDC does self test. no faults means check engine light goes off, and glow plug light* goes out too ( but not necessarily in that order) - THEN you can crank it over, and it should start.... IMHO, do NOT try to start it with the EDC doing its self test.

*= some EDC systems have the ability to see engine temp, and may not trigger the glow plugs on a warm engine.

Have you checked fuses?

Magicgrotto said:

J wip the top off & check that the valves are moving !

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I almost said this, but he says there is fuel at the injectors, and i couldnt see how the cam wouldnt turn if the IP was doing. The sudden loss of power is just like a belt failure though.

To the OP -

By "top", im sure Magic means nothing more than the oil filler cap. If you look in there whilst a friend cranks the engine over, then you should see the rockers moving.

What this is a test for is that the cam belt is still attatched to the cam sprocket, which, in turn, is pushing the push rods up, against the rockers (which are the bits you can see down the filler cap) which then pivot on the rocker shaft, and press down against the valve stems (you can see some of these too, they run through the centers of the springs) which open the valves.




My vote, however, goes on some electrickery going on in the injection pump. Or, i guess, major slipping of the belt. But my money would go on electrics first.

Not in to Auto's mi sen ! Manuel's only this end There to much F/IN Clutter under that bonnet ! LOL

Steve

Disco1BFG said:

That's not right - now, it might just be the way you have explained it... BUT, the process for EDC self test is:- key to position II - Check engine light and glowplug light* will illuminate. EDC does self test. no faults means check engine light goes off, and glow plug light* goes out too ( but not necessarily in that order) - THEN you can crank it over, and it should start.... IMHO, do NOT try to start it with the EDC doing its self test.

*= some EDC systems have the ability to see engine temp, and may not trigger the glow plugs on a warm engine.

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ok so just tried that to no avail (Key 2nd position lights came on then engine light went out followed by glow plug light) is that crrect

Magicgrotto said:

View attachment 114180
Have you checked fuses?

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yeah first thing I did

TRY IT ON SNIFF ! Take pipe off inlet & whilst turning over sqwert some sniff in & see if it will fire !
An't No4 injector got sumat to do with starting ? sparky's will have to ansa this 1 as i ain't got a clue !

Steve

J Masters said:

ok so just tried that to no avail (Key 2nd position lights came on then engine light went out followed by glow plug light) is that crrect

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It sounds correct - and please don't take this the wrong way, but i presume you mean the "Check Engine" light when you say "engine light" ? - I am only trying to be as accurate as possible from 150 miles away (!). .....

Magicgrotto said:

TRY IT ON SNIFF ! Take pipe off inlet & whilst turning over sqwert some sniff in & see if it will fire !
An't No4 injector got sumat to do with starting ? sparky's will have to ansa this 1 as i ain't got a clue !

Steve

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It should fire on easy start / brake cleaner ( a SMALL amount !!). AFAIK, #4 injector is used for timing modulation - and is monitored by the EDC - if its duff, then EDC will put the MIL light on. As the light is not on, then the sensor coil is OK - BUT, be very careful near #4, as they are no longer available.

The sensor that is necessary for starting is the crank position sensor - thankfully still available, but a pig to fit.

OP:- I suspect you're gonna need diagnostics on this to find the problem - unless you've checked all the usual suspects of air in the system, broken cam/timing belt etc.... then its almost got to be the FIP.

How may miles has she done?

Disco1BFG said:

BUT, be very careful near #4, as they are no longer available.

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Can you guess Who's got 1

Disco1BFG said:

It sounds correct - and please don't take this the wrong way, but i presume you mean the "Check Engine" light when you say "engine light" ? - I am only trying to be as accurate as possible from 150 miles away (!). .....

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that's what I meant haha cheers

Disco1BFG said:

It should fire on easy start / brake cleaner ( a SMALL amount !!). AFAIK, #4 injector is used for timing modulation - and is monitored by the EDC - if its duff, then EDC will put the MIL light on. As the light is not on, then the sensor coil is OK - BUT, be very careful near #4, as they are no longer available.

The sensor that is necessary for starting is the crank position sensor - thankfully still available, but a pig to fit.

OP:- I suspect you're gonna need diagnostics on this to find the problem - unless you've checked all the usual suspects of air in the system, broken cam/timing belt etc.... then its almost got to be the FIP.

How may miles has she done?

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ill grab easy start today, she's done 160,000
what does FIP mean haha sorry I appreciate I probably sound a tit for asking

easy start didn't help much it would fire once but that was it, it is only turning over slowly now might bite the bullet and buy a jump pack

Wun't bother with a jump pack I'd buy a NEW Battery
THEN sort the EARTHS OUT

Magicgrotto said:

Wun't bother with a jump pack I'd buy a NEW Battery
THEN sort the EARTHS OUT

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the battery is only a month old I might take it back to the shop
I found and cleaned all the earth points under fuse box

J Masters said:

I found and cleaned all the earth points under fuse box

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How about the 1 near the starter motor ??

Steve

Comes off starter to chassis !

Magicgrotto said:

Comes off starter to chassis !

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im on it now cheers mate

J Masters said:

ill grab easy start today, she's done 160,000
what does FIP mean haha sorry I appreciate I probably sound a tit for asking

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FIP = Fuel Injection Pump - the "blob" under the Air Con (AC) compressor which is connected via high pressure steel pipes to the injectors. You are NOT a tit for asking! the only dumb question is the one you don't ask !!

160K... then it might be ready for a pump rebuild.....( of course it may have been done too )

Magicgrotto said:

Wun't bother with a jump pack I'd buy a NEW Battery
THEN sort the EARTHS OUT

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+1 money is better spent on a proper new battery IMHO - if its new, it could be faulty ( not unknown) - could just be flat too... so give it a good charge, with a good charger - at least overnight - what is the spec of this battery ? sort of needs to be about 700 CCA and about 70Ah ( mine is running a 680 CCA/74Ah Varta ATM )

How are those earth straps looking ??? !!

Disco1BFG said:

FIP = Fuel Injection Pump - the "blob" under the Air Con (AC) compressor which is connected via high pressure steel pipes to the injectors. You are NOT a tit for asking! the only dumb question is the one you don't ask !!

160K... then it might be ready for a pump rebuild.....( of course it may have been done too )



+1 money is better spent on a proper new battery IMHO - if its new, it could be faulty ( not unknown) - could just be flat too... so give it a good charge, with a good charger - at least overnight - what is the spec of this battery ? sort of needs to be about 700 CCA and about 70Ah ( mine is running a 680 CCA/74Ah Varta ATM )

How are those earth straps looking ??? !!

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is having the pump rebuilt a big job?
yeah ill try get hold of a charger then in stead, failing that ill take it back
Still cant find those bloody earths, the one under the fuse box head several 'o'ring type things connecting to it