Datatek
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On that point and others the manual is clearly wrong, it's an electrical impossibilityOk your right and me and Land Rover are wrong then.
1996 2.5 dse auto cutting out
- Thread starter b1uephoenix
- Start date
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Datatek
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Damsel, did you say Damsel? Post a location and someone will be round to fix it straight away
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- Preston Lancs.
On that point and others the manual is clearly wrong, it's an electrical impossibility
I suggest you write to Land Rover and put them right then. They seem to think it works.
Datatek
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- Near Poitiers SW France
I suggest you write to Land Rover and put them right then. They seem to think it works.
I aint about to lecture LR in basic electronics, they know it's wrong but it's obsolete so not interested. The description does not even agree with the drawings, the technical author had probably had a good lunch when he wrote it.
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- Preston Lancs.
I aint about to lecture LR in basic electronics, they know it's wrong but it's obsolete so not interested. The description does not even agree with the drawings, the technical author had probably had a good lunch when he wrote it.
Seems to explain nicely why the engine cuts out if the revs drop below 500 though. But hey ho what do they know. Don't think it is number four injector though, that will not cause the engine to stop, only put it in safe mode. Do the window motors no use polarity reversal?
Datatek
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They they, Hi Lo transfer box motor and the D+ to the alternator are about the only things that do.
That need lift injector does some funny things if the difference between the rotational speed it gives and that of the crank sensor are out of limits
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They they, Hi Lo transfer box motor and the D+ to the alternator are about the only things that do.
That need lift injector does some funny things if the difference between the rotational speed it gives and that of the crank sensor are out of limits
Needle sensor is for start of injection measurement which is changed for differing engine speeds. Engine speed comes from crank sensor if that goes duff engine stops and does not start at all. If no signal from number four injector ECU takes it,s reference from crank sensor hence safe mode. That's what it says in manual. But then again it could be wrong.
Datatek
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My Faultmate gives a max permissable difference error between revs calculated from the crank and needle lift, might read it again just to be sure? Could also be wrong I guess. I know from playing that the needle lift sensor if it's intermittant produces some funny results. That could also be wrong as it was not a normal condition but one I introduced.Needle sensor is for start of injection measurement which is changed for differing engine speeds. Engine speed comes from crank sensor if that goes duff engine stops and does not start at all. If no signal from number four injector ECU takes it,s reference from crank sensor hence safe mode. That's what it says in manual. But then again it could be wrong.
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My Faultmate gives a max permissable difference error between revs calculated from the crank and needle lift, might read it again just to be sure? Could also be wrong I guess. I know from playing that the needle lift sensor if it's intermittant produces some funny results. That could also be wrong as it was not a normal condition but one I introduced.
The needle sensor as i said measures start of injection, from this and engine speed sensor ECU retards or advances FIP for different engine speeds. If you lose crank sensor engine stops. If you lose number four sensor, ECU goes to default timing and sets engine in safe mode. I have an intermittent fuel fault on mine that i think maybe number four, must take a look at it sometime.
b1uephoenix
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ok guys . can i have this in english please! lol. and yes i did say damsel! really like this car as it is ideal for my needs and i don't want to be selling it because of something like this if it is easily fixed.
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- Preston Lancs.
Think of it in a logical manner. If this only happens when you turn the steering in one direction, then it is likely to be connected. When i say change steering fluid it's on the off chance that it may cure a sticky valve in the pump or steering box or there is a piece of FOD in there somewhere that needs to come out, it's worth a punt. Don't look at the fluid in the header tank and think it is a nice colour, that is the header tank the stuff being sloshed around the system may not look like that at all. Go along to your favourite mechanic, wear a low cut blouse and a short skirt and he may just do it for you on the cheap. Worth a try if it cures the problem all is good.
Datatek
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More things that can cause idling problems.
1) Idle switch on throttle peddle.
2) Idle speed adjustment in the ECU. Should have a value of 128, if someone has attempted to adjust it and put too large a figure in it cause undefined undesireable effects.
3) The rpm figures from the needle lift sensor and the crank sensor should be within 40rpm at idle.
1) Idle switch on throttle peddle.
2) Idle speed adjustment in the ECU. Should have a value of 128, if someone has attempted to adjust it and put too large a figure in it cause undefined undesireable effects.
3) The rpm figures from the needle lift sensor and the crank sensor should be within 40rpm at idle.
b1uephoenix
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Go along to your favourite mechanic, wear a low cut blouse and a short skirt and he may just do it for you on the cheap. Worth a try if it cures the problem all is good.
problem with that is i don't do skirts and low tops! if i did they would probably crack up laughing as they are used to seeing me in jeans , jumpers and covered in oil, grease or 2k paint! lol
b1uephoenix
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Hi. as far as i can remember when it stalls the lights come on as you would expect. it is rather high mileage at about 215k but for what i do in it at the moment it doesn't matter. sometimes it says gearbox fault when it stalls but have been told that is to be expected because it is stalling when it is in d or r . will be using the car tomorrow for it's school run so will take note of the lights then.
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problem with that is i don't do skirts and low tops! if i did they would probably crack up laughing as they are used to seeing me in jeans , jumpers and covered in oil, grease or 2k paint! lol
A painter then. Do the oil change, shuttle valve will be sticking loading steering pump and stalling engine. Mine used to do it and throw the fan belt tensioner back until i fitted a new tensioner. Still does it now and again although not very often. Must do fluid change when weather gets better. Pretty confident that is your problem.
roddy4
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fooking take off speed,no wonder it's fooked,would that be near valve bounce lol
jamesmartin
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i would think that engine is only just managing to idle and any extra put on it like steering or selecting drive ,is stopping it since youve just had head done is timing correct or a little retarded,pump timing is advanced electroincaly for cold start and this may hide fault till warm ,or air flowing through to injector pump,cold start staying on
b1uephoenix
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timing has been checked and rechecked. they have tried advancing and retarding it but makes no difference. it is spot on what it should be.the idle it's self is fine when stationary it is when i select r or d from park when the revs drop.
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- Preston Lancs.
You can't just try advancing and retarding. It is not done like that. Timing is set with a DTI to thousands of an inch. You can't just turn pump back and forth and hope to get it correct. Revs will drop a little when you select gear. Thought you said the problem was engine stalling when you turn steering to right. I have already told you the possible cause of this.
