1996 2.5 dse auto cutting out

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b1uephoenix

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14
Location
wigan
Hi. Got a 1996 2.5 dse auto p38. recently had new head fitted ( surprise surprise) since then it has been cutting out when warm. can be at traffic lights and in park but when I got to go into drive it cuts out. also noticed it is now happening when I'm stationary and turn the steering to the right???? only happens when engine is warm. HELP!!!!!!! :confused:

also when driving onto a side street i was was braking and turning right and it cut out!!!
 
Last edited:
b1uephoenix said:
Hi. Got a 1996 2.5 dse auto p38. recently had new head fitted ( surprise surprise) since then it has been cutting out when warm. can be at traffic lights and in park but when I got to go into drive it cuts out. also noticed it is now happening when I'm stationary and turn the steering to the right???? only happens when engine is warm. HELP!!!!!!! :confused:

also when driving onto a side street i was was braking and turning right and it cut out!!!
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Sounds like a problem with the power steering pump. Maybe a valve sticking overloading the pump and causing the engine speed to drop below 500 rpm which will stall the engine.
 
had the fault codes read and nothing is coming up. head was done by landrover specialist but i know that means nothing!
 
turn steering wheel to right when in park with engine warm and revs drop. cuts out too which is not good when it does it when i am driving and don't live on a straight road with no bends! lol
 
b1uephoenix said:
can't remember idle off hand but think it is about 7000rpm.
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Hope not that would blow the engine to bits:eek: If it's 700 it's at the bottom of the permissable range, it should be 750 +/- 50 rpm it's possible to have the idle speed adjusted on the computer, I would get the idle speed increased and see if that fixes it.:)

Put your location, there maybe someone nearby who could help.
 
might be different than that but not sure. garage have tried adjusting revs but makes no difference. they say it is on the right setting whatever that is. losing heart with it now!
 
b1uephoenix said:
might be different than that but not sure. garage have tried adjusting revs but makes no difference. they say it is on the right setting whatever that is. losing heart with it now!
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.

If you paid a garage to fix it and apart from overheating it was OK before, I'd chuck it back at them and make them fix it at their cost.
 
they looked at it and said they can't see what is causing it. got it done at cost price of them cos i help out doing a few bits and sometimes we do paintwork/welding for them so really annoying that this has happened
 
b1uephoenix said:
they looked at it and said they can't see what is causing it. got it done at cost price of them cos i help out doing a few bits and sometimes we do paintwork/welding for them so really annoying that this has happened
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go round and check all the sensors are correctly connected especially the one to injector 4.
 
It is cutting out because something is causing the engine RPM to fall below 500 at which time the alternator stops providing power for the systems and the engine stalls. When ignition is turn on and key is turned to start position, power for engine systems is supplied from the battery. When engine reaches 500 RPM power supply from battery is isolated by polarity reversal and the alternator takes over. If the engine drops below 500 rpm there is no power so engine stops. Simples. As i said look at power steering.
 
Sorry Wammers but IMO that's bollox, you can run it without the alternator, all the systems are connected direct to the battery via the fuse box, as is the alternator. There is no current flow in the wire from the alternator to the battery until it starts generating when it then feeds the battery and by virtue of the common connectionthe rest of the electronics.
You love your current reversals:p:p:p

He also said it cuts out when he selects Drive, so any increase in load is stalling it.
 
Datatek said:
Sorry Wammers but IMO that's bollox, you can run it without the alternator, all the systems are connected direct to the battery via the fuse box, as is the alternator. There is no current flow in the wire from the alternator to the battery until it starts generating when it then feeds the battery and by virtue of the common connectionthe rest of the electronics.
You love your current reversals:p:p:p

He also said it cuts out when he selects Drive, so any increase in load is stalling it.
Click to expand...

Ok your right and me and Land Rover are wrong then. :):):)
 
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