1995 Range Rover P38 2.5 DT won't start.

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did you top up the new filter with diesel first before fitting? Avoids the nausea of the 2 man prime.

Might want to look at getting or using a home start power pack as all this work may be too much for the battery, especially if it's getting on a bit. Otherwise, even with your problem fixed less than 12.4 you may never start it. Prob need at least 1000cc.

Glow plugs as above would be the best place to start and check the pre heating is working.

I dont suppose if anyone would know if a duff hot start unit would prevent the plugs from heating altogether hot or cold? as if it was fine yesterday and not today its probably electrical. Which doesn't help much considering most of the vehicle is connected to some sort of microchip.
 
did you top up the new filter with diesel first before fitting? Avoids the nausea of the 2 man prime.

Might want to look at getting or using a home start power pack as all this work may be too much for the battery, especially if it's getting on a bit. Otherwise, even with your problem fixed less than 12.4 you may never start it. Prob need at least 1000cc.

Glow plugs as above would be the best place to start and check the pre heating is working.

I dont suppose if anyone would know if a duff hot start unit would prevent the plugs from heating altogether hot or cold? as if it was fine yesterday and not today its probably electrical. Which doesn't help much considering most of the vehicle is connected to some sort of microchip.

I did top it up with diesel but there were still air-bubbles in the line. I tried loosening the return from the fuel pump and then turned the key everytime the lift-pump stopped to try and purge the bubbles. Only partially successful.

Easy-start blown directly through the air-system fired so I'm pretty sure we've got a fuel problem. I did undo the high-pressure coupling of the fuel pump (fairly easily) but couldn't get the union apart! Whole lot seems to be fused together! Ran out of time but will return and have another go when I get a chance. I think I'd like to try a diagnostic on her though, if possible.
 
I may be wrong, but I don't think the fact it fires with easy start means it is not the glow plugs - easy start a lot easier to ignite than diesel!

To me, everything points to your glow plugs needing replacing...


Cheers

Jerry
 
I may be wrong, but I don't think the fact it fires with easy start means it is not the glow plugs - easy start a lot easier to ignite than diesel!

To me, everything points to your glow plugs needing replacing...


Cheers

Jerry

Correct, a diesel will start on Easy Start with no glow plugs in the depths of winter:eek:
 
Bit of a break in service there while I was visiting Datatek's neighbours (i.e. in Spain.)

Yes, Easystart should start anything. But surely if it was just glow-plugs then once it fired it would keep running, regardless of the state of the glow-plugs?

The bubble I got in the fuel-line when I replaced the fuel filter doesn't shift. There doesn't seem to be any fuel getting past the fuel pump. Why change between switching off and switching on 8 hours later? My gut feeling is that the stop vlave is staying shut, possibly on orders from the immobiliser. Seriously wondering how hard it would be to bypass the security system and crank it from a new switch!
 
I think that you are at the try resynch stage.

If there were a feasible security bypass, someone on this site or RR.net would have done it by now.

I feel sure that there must be someone with the kit closer to you than me coming out from town. That would be a one time fix and covering my cost would be nearly half of a sync-mate that you would have for next time.

BeCM Sync Mate, P38 Immobiliser Diesel Starting Problem | eBay

G~
 
I think I'll go down the Nana Evo route if I shell out.

Yes, I think if possible it would be good to get someone with Testbook / Nano / synch-tool out to try and see what happens.
If that works I guess I'll have to invest. There must be someone near mid-Bucks but they're all probably on holiday!

J
 
Have you tried cracking an injector pipe loose and crank it over till you see fuel,this should get the last of the air through the FIP and out of the system
 
Have you tried cracking an injector pipe loose and crank it over till you see fuel,this should get the last of the air through the FIP and out of the system

I did try that on the only really accessible nut but the pipe was fused at the union. I gave it a bit of a yank but didn't want to mess it up too bad in case it didn't go back together properly and leaked! So, dead end there!

J
 
Car started!



Was the sync issue.

Nanocom Security Learn in the doesn't work in the EDC menu. You have to take the EMS number from the EDC part and write that into the immobiliser code in the BECM section. I cycled the ignition and recheck to make sure the code stuck then cranked her over and straight into life.

There's a relief!

Does anyone keep track of the model and year and symptoms and what the final fix (and cost) was? That might be interesting in coming up with a troubleshooting priority list.

J
 
Car started!



Was the sync issue.

Nanocom Security Learn in the doesn't work in the EDC menu. You have to take the EMS number from the EDC part and write that into the immobiliser code in the BECM section. I cycled the ignition and recheck to make sure the code stuck then cranked her over and straight into life.

There's a relief!

Does anyone keep track of the model and year and symptoms and what the final fix (and cost) was? That might be interesting in coming up with a troubleshooting priority list.

J

Did i not say that earlier?:):)
 
spooky !!!!


psychic Land Rover repairing

is there no end to this man's talents?

I know sometimes i have to wonder also. But when several threads are dealing with the same vehicle and the same problem, it do get a bit confusing for us old timers, remembering where you posted the answer. :D:D
 
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