1995 300tdi Defender 90 Electrical issue

Vehicle died last week. Worked out it was an electrical issue as no power to the fuel stop solenoid, so I bypassed it straight to the battery to get me home.

I found the original white wire to the stop solenoid had been bypassed already, I traced this back today to find it had been bodged by stuffing a bare wire into a spade terminal in the bulkhead glow plug realy

Symptoms:
No power to stop solenoid, fuel gauge, temp gauge, oil presure dash light, or choke light (I know, presumeably it's a glowplug light) dipped headlights or main beam, no indicators, hazard light work on left, but not right unless the indicator is switched to the right while the hazard switch is on; no brake lights, no fog light. There is power to starter motor, side lights, radio, CB.

All internal bulkhead fuses intact, found the 7.5A fuse for the stop solendoid had gone so replaced it. High amp fuses in engine bay all intact.

My starter solenoid has been a bit iffy since playing at Tixover a couple of weeks back, not sure if that's connected to this latest issue.

I presumed the glowplug realy had gone due to the previous bodge, I have just replaced the glow plug realy and symptoms remain the same.

I'm a bit stumped, any advice as to how to tackle this issue would be much appreciated!

Removed some redundant wiring from the old alarm...


How on earth do you get this facia off? seems to be stuck around the heater outlet, can't find any more screws I'll end up breaking it in frustration


This is giving me a right headache :Cry:

check your earths, normal places and engine bay right of servo

but all you need is power from ign live (white), so you could use a spare white wire, or stick in a new one.

i can't remember, do fender 300s have immobs and that's why this one was bypassed... i *think* they do in the bat box

I think these are the plastic fittings that the screws go in to for that bit of facia. Sorry, could have picked a better colour for the arrows.



If this doesn't help I'll dig the bits out of the box and have a closer look.

trax said:

check your earths, normal places and engine bay right of servo

but all you need is power from ign live (white), so you could use a spare white wire, or stick in a new one.

i can't remember, do fender 300s have immobs and that's why this one was bypassed... i *think* they do in the bat box

Click to expand...

Just bought a 300. And wondered if the" thing"in the battery box was aftermarket. Theres a key hole on the box but I have no key for it. Thought it was a daft place to put a key operated alarm. Maybe some one could shed some light on how it worked

Al2O3 said:

I think these are the plastic fittings that the screws go in to for that bit of facia. Sorry, could have picked a better colour for the arrows.

Click to expand...

Cheers matey, looks like I've got to remove the clocks and most of the dash to get at the loom, it runs behind the grey panel with the vents in and splits off to the fuse box rather than where I was attacking it in the pics.

Originally Posted by trax
check your earths, normal places and engine bay right of servo

but all you need is power from ign live (white), so you could use a spare white wire, or stick in a new one.

i can't remember, do fender 300s have immobs and that's why this one was bypassed... i *think* they do in the bat box

Click to expand...

There no factory imobiliser, but I had one fitted for the insurance, seems to be working correctly tho, I think I have an open circuit somewhere on the loom between ignition and fuse box. Bloody fuse box mounting screws are rounded off too, going to have to drill them out. I honestly think the bodged fuel cutoff bypass was because the fuse had gone, the chap who rebuilt the truck was a real good engineer, but a ****e electrician judging from some of his work I've already put right! I can't just bypass it again as there's too much not working besides the fuel cutoff solenoid.

Mick, does it look like one of these?

Pumpy said:

Cheers matey, looks like I've got to remove the clocks and most of the dash to get at the loom, it runs behind the grey panel with the vents in and splits off to the fuse box rather than where I was attacking it in the pics.



There no factory imobiliser, but I had one fitted for the insurance, seems to be working correctly tho, I think I have an open circuit somewhere on the loom between ignition and fuse box. Bloody fuse box mounting screws are rounded off too, going to have to drill them out. I honestly think the bodged fuel cutoff bypass was because the fuse had gone, the chap who rebuilt the truck was a real good engineer, but a ****e electrician judging from some of his work I've already put right! I can't just bypass it again as there's too much not working besides the fuel cutoff solenoid.

Mick, does it look like one of these?

Click to expand...

No its proper looking box with a key switch and tons of wires lying in and around the battery.

mick the builder said:

No its proper looking box with a key switch and tons of wires lying in and around the battery.

Click to expand...

no idea then mate, take a pic and start a new thread, somenoe will know wtf it is