1990 90 200tdi More corrosion. ......
- Thread starter darland
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,322
- Location
- Wiltshire
It’s part of the side panel on the seat base.
Rub it down it may look better.
Rub it down it may look better.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 11,050
- Location
- Shropshire
I can't tell what it is tbh.
Discodevon
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,454
Just get a wire brush on a drill and rub it back and treat/paint it
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,322
- Location
- Wiltshire
manchestershire
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 173
- Location
- Staffordshire
You may find the bottom of the door striker panel has gone too, parts are available from yrm.
Easy job to do, 3 bolts on sill, 2 bolts in your picture at bottom of door striker plate.and some spot welds that will need drilling out.
Instructions on yrm's website.
Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of it finished.
Mine looked exactly the same as yours to start with.
The last picture shows the striker plate fitted, the seat box side panel replacement is the fresh piece of metal on top of the seat box.
On reflection, I may have got away with not replacing the striker plate on that (passenger) side, but the drivers side was much worse, possibly because it's a mud trap behind the fuel tank pipe. So I did change both sides of the seat box and striker plates.
Reassembled with stainless bolts to hopefully prevent it happening again.
My only gripe with the striker repair panels from yrm is that they are much thicker than what you've taken off and you are left with a noticeable ridge.
EDIT. 4 bolts on sill.
Easy job to do, 3 bolts on sill, 2 bolts in your picture at bottom of door striker plate.and some spot welds that will need drilling out.
Instructions on yrm's website.
Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of it finished.
Mine looked exactly the same as yours to start with.
The last picture shows the striker plate fitted, the seat box side panel replacement is the fresh piece of metal on top of the seat box.
On reflection, I may have got away with not replacing the striker plate on that (passenger) side, but the drivers side was much worse, possibly because it's a mud trap behind the fuel tank pipe. So I did change both sides of the seat box and striker plates.
Reassembled with stainless bolts to hopefully prevent it happening again.
My only gripe with the striker repair panels from yrm is that they are much thicker than what you've taken off and you are left with a noticeable ridge.
EDIT. 4 bolts on sill.
Last edited:
Flossie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 11,050
- Location
- Shropshire
AHH... That folded bracket bolts on to the sill channel doesn't it?
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Did you put your repair panel on top of the existing, corroded strike plate? I cut mine out and so didn't end up with a ridge.
manchestershire
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 173
- Location
- Staffordshire
I cut the front skin off, and fixed the new panel to the front of the remaining layer, as per instructions on the website. The metal I removed was probably 1 to 1.5mm thick. The yrm replacement was substantially thicker ( maybe 3mm).
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Hmmm, got me thinking now. I'm away on holiday at the moment and just on phone, so don't have the pics of my repair. Yours are great though. I've put the YRM battery box in too.
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,777
- Location
- france
That is brilliant. How did you know I was going to start doing mine in the next couple of days??
I haven't really looked at it yet and was wondering if I was going to need to drill out the welds - if I can find my spot weld bits - just the drivers side of the seat base fortunately.
manchestershire
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 173
- Location
- Staffordshire
That is brilliant. How did you know I was going to start doing mine in the next couple of days??
I haven't really looked at it yet and was wondering if I was going to need to drill out the welds - if I can find my spot weld bits - just the drivers side of the seat base fortunately.
You would probably be best to drill the welds out, I got my spot weld bits off eBay, only a few pounds.
It made for a much neater and therefore easier job to reassemble the seat box.
It may be necessary to remove the seat box almost entirely to manoeuvre the old panel out and new one into place, and then you open up the can of worms
I did mine while rebuilding after a chassis swap, so everything was in bits anyway.
Similar threads
