1968 series 2a restoration

I do have free wheeling hubs and in assuming if I slot them
Into 4x4 that will engage it? Cheers

yes then prop shouldnt turn

Cheers guys, I do have free wheeling hubs and I now realise if I change them to 4x4 that should engage the prop to drive the front wheels?

Series 2a Mark said:

Cheers guys, I do have free wheeling hubs and I now realise if I change them to 4x4 that should engage the prop to drive the front wheels?

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Yep. Series' are not permanent 4x4, therefore, without free wheeling hubs, the front axle and prop would get dragged round all the time .... which "wastes" fuel .. (I.E. uses more than strictly required ) .... So, ..... it's actually the other way round - the front wheels will drive the prop, until you press the yellow knob down ( or go into low ), as well as faffing with the FWH.....

if you needed 4WD regularly, then FWH are a PITA, as you'd have to stop and engage them before you can have it (4WD) ... ask me how I know this ....

Historically, this is where the permanent 4x4 system of the RRC* was a step forward .....

(* - and later carried on into the 90/110/130 and D1 et al )

FWH can stick if they don't get used

FWH should be turned to 4x4 every so often to aid lubrication.

Cheers. Will do, il ensure I put them in 4x4 regularly to keep them operating and lubricated.

Quick question, I'm needing to replace the seal on my rear diff, noticing oil seeping from the input where the prop shaft enters diff, I was online looking, is it the diff input seal I'm looking for? Can see them but just wanted to check before ordering. Cheers.

Yes but look for a decent one
Corteco are good

Series 2a Mark said:

Quick question, I'm needing to replace the seal on my rear diff, noticing oil seeping from the input where the prop shaft enters diff, I was online looking, is it the diff input seal I'm looking for? Can see them but just wanted to check before ordering. Cheers.

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Sometimes called the drive pinion oil seal and it could be the pinion is worn so it doesn't seal properly any more.

Great cheers, will investigate further. Some photos of progress so far.. The last one is the springs put back together before tightening minus the final couple of clamps I still need to make for each.

Meant to ask, the mileage is around 32k and when I had an old experienced mechanic look over engine etc, he seamed to think it was genuine going by the lack of wear and tear (apart from the chassis back half being rotted out) . Going on that would you expect the drive pinion to be badly worn on that sort of mileage/use? Or is it somthing that could wear regardless of mileage being low?

Making fast progress and springs come out well. Mine had 28k when I got it , inside the diffs looked like new
Once you pull the shaft out you can look for wear , if there is a ridge possible you can push the seal in a bit further onto an unworn part

Thanks Steve, yeah I'm really
Happy with the springs. They will need a final touch up of paint on the edges once installed but that's the least of my jobs just now. Il get a new seal ordered in the next day or so for diff. Next I'm onto painting chassis and back axle with 2 coats of black before re assembling and then I can move onto front chassis welding (dumb irons need a bit of
Repair work) then I can get onto the bulkhead.

If working at home was just like that it would be soooo easy

Do you mean on the drive or taking over my kitchen for painting pieces haha

You can get a speedi sleeve for the drive pinion if the seal running area is worn.
Rovers north list it as
Speedi-Sleeve 99174-SKF - 44x17 mm
https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/99174_speedi_sleeve_differential_pinion
Best price is ebay for SKF
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222280248987
You can get a Coreteco oil seal which has dust seal as well part number
15035956B

you can buy a new flange cheaper 236632

Thanks guys, I ordered the coreteco seal as advised and will fit that next week when it comes, will be getting my first coat of black on chassis tonight and axle. Also ordered my footwells and bulkhead repair sections too so that I can start that at the end of next week or so.
I knows it a long way off before I get to body work etc, but a previous owner has fitted reverse lights to the rear tub, I'm wanting to keep it as original as possible (within reason). What's the general opinion, keep them, remove them. Or change one to a fog light and keep one side as a reverse?

Series 2a Mark said:

What's the general opinion, keep them, remove them. Or change one to a fog light and keep one side as a reverse?

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For me, living in the sticks, two reversing lights are essential - and I also think two fog lights are safer than one.... so, .... I'd be looking at :-

www.bettercarlighting.co.uk

as, IIRC, they do a "kit" of bit to enable one "fitting" to do both purposes using LEDs and some "trickery"

( no affiliation - just seen them mentioned in a mag or two ).

Addit:- having looked at your picture ... I might be inclined to move those fittings to a better position for the purpose I mentioned above