1965 Series 2a Station Wagon in Holland

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Google training courses? I had no idea that such a thing existed - I'll Yahoo! that.

Anyway, you think yours is a tad unwise....

TC0jK7r6uK5D_lhrMsE_Lc8WYeFEqRZeJdx8zRiDCmRoM3RfLza2SyPBUg3lKtqz02XqhnXErhohCKyZlafa5aOKi2Ze4XDUonDTv8O-M3c5eFLVtmZ5-V33NFIzYzLo9suOLys73RZJ8A51qKTr6pZ6BCPJ6xTHm0-RKk0sf_JZbNVcWd6gOrGZ1UJGCWoW5Z2lAP5y07WBKKdsLPQpPKvn1H6wstSgshAqJnBwtlqop4VmcMcy3PV9Gk_UW9VWROjD4SqPl_NA5WL_OGoIBx5m34N3CbMiB-Tcuc_K7Aes3Bc6OaBmkH0_rjugdy8KuaOdND7bWRZgC7AX0ln2LnRAApZnqkvgr_lphXlwpgncu4tpTtYAsQSXt5sCTFKAyJP2FcQoofpCBol-XA1rE3RMDpSBGPtZhJ4yYd9DXGmGSF63l3hRHAdu9r-OtWxCMy0-JB5hOevUofNJSBmibv1T_Folci8hBCCJNou7Srkn7iJ3WcgnPSFOouEE5bJ-9FuL9SIkENhXTlQA-mC9idk0_-KgDPJakEwmiVKUj-Aqm8jlHLBPZzrKjEKHYPV71N0qEU0VZRGBqHew1lcZniMthWSFLxIkfebN6muw1YG1OVwZ=w372-h496-no


It's not completely stupid - the castors are bolted onto 19mm ply.
How are you getting on with that Wolfcraft work mate?

Mine seems to be dying a death. The pressed steel protrusions for the clamps seem to be being ignored by the clamps which makes it kinda wobbly. Still it was cheaper than a Black and Decker original. I bought the Wolfcraft version because at the time it was the highest foldable portable work benches at the time (whereas the Black and Decker offerings seemed to provide a work height that was suitable for an eight year old... The Netherlands is on record for being the tallest group of people in the world and yet they seem to be happy to make do with stuff that was designed for the height of crippled people from Medieval Europe)
 
Bought for much the same reasons as you, in 2008. It's been left outside quite a bit, and I replaced the original ply top about five years ago. It's been good. I'd certainly buy another in preference to a B&D (had one and was sick of having to fold out the extra legs). Main niggle is that the storage holes for the yellow plastic bits are too loose and they never stay in for more than five minutes. I don't do up the clamps unless the ground isn't flat, but don't remember it being a problem. Oddly, I still haven't quite got used to how it folds/unfolds so that half the time I pull the wrong bit. You have given me an idea though. Could put some green dots on the right bits to pull...
 
Bought for much the same reasons as you, in 2008. It's been left outside quite a bit, and I replaced the original ply top about five years ago. It's been good. I'd certainly buy another in preference to a B&D (had one and was sick of having to fold out the extra legs). Main niggle is that the storage holes for the yellow plastic bits are too loose and they never stay in for more than five minutes. I don't do up the clamps unless the ground isn't flat, but don't remember it being a problem. Oddly, I still haven't quite got used to how it folds/unfolds so that half the time I pull the wrong bit. You have given me an idea though. Could put some green dots on the right bits to pull...
I think we need to copyright green dots pretty sharpish before the rest of the world realises how useful they are
 
Oh deary me - Valve train woes

(Not the end of the world but I didn't really need to wait for spares after all)

These rocker arms are from the low mileage (good condition) used head I bought last year - I planned to replace the adjusters and the nuts but ended up in the poo

1965 series 2a station wagon cleaning up valve rockers1.JPG


The internal surfaces of the rockers look (and more importantly feel good) on a new rocker shaft

Still the oil ways deserved some extra attention - squirt of brake cleaner through both drillings

1965 series 2a station wagon cleaning up valve rockers2.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon cleaning up valve rockers3.JPG


I assumed the adjuster nuts would have been nadgered so I ordered a new set

1965 series 2a station wagon exhaust tappets cleaned.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon inlet tappets cleaned.JPG


They are not bad at all - which is just as well because the threads on the newly ordered adjusters are different from the old ones...

1965 series 2a station wagon tappet adjusters different threads.JPG


I can only assume the replacement head is a bit older than I expected!

#####

I'd like to check the following with those who know - 'cos the Green Book doesn't help and the parts catalogue has already let me down

Rocker shaft position

There's an extra hole drilled on one end of the shaft as shown below =>

1965 series 2a station wagon rocker arm position one.JPG


When I took it to pieces it was positioned as shown in the picture above. However it is not specified in the Green Book or the (or especially clear in the) pictures in the parts catalogue.

An alternative position could be =>

1965 series 2a station wagon rocker shaft psoition two.JPG


Anybody know for sure?

EDIT:- Thread for rocker shaft orientation is 'ere https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2-25-diesel-rocker-shaft-orientation.314061/
 
Last edited:
Ignore the pictures I made above of the valve train - I'll post up some correct ones tomorrow (or later on). I've got the fixing screw pedestal in the wrong place - it should align with the extra hole shown in the first picture...
 
I think I had the opposite problem to you.ibought the old adjuster and needed the new ones. I will double check when I get home and if they're the ones you need you can have them
 
Well that front crankshaft seal was a pain in the <BEEP>

I suspect it was due to the manufacturer of the seal rather than the design (!) - I'm hearing more and more bad things about the Karsson (is that how you spell it?) brand...

...it needed a bit of fettling to fit (not ideal). Luckily there is a copious amount of Hylomar Blue left in the tube so =>

CClOHYdXIAAZITA.jpg


"That's all good then"

1965 series 2a station wagon front crankshaft seal fitting1.JPG


As you can see the outer edge of a 63mm bearing fitting tool fits nicely in the 'ole

1965 series 2a station wagon front crankshaft seal fitting2.JPG


Hylomar Blue to the rescue

1965 series 2a station wagon front crankshaft seal fitting3.JPG


Stupid cheapo spring in seal pinged out.

1965 series 2a station wagon front crankshaft seal fitting4.JPG


Twist into coils to hold it together again (bet it doesn't last - utter utter utter crap)

Still it ain't too difficult to fit a decent seal in the future if I really really have to

(Watch this space - yet another "this'll bite you on the arse Stretch moment")
 
'ad another "bugger" moment today with the big sand blasting cabinet. I've wasted so much time on this sideline...

...still when I get the suction working I'm ready to go. 100mm bathroom fan seems be about as effective as a handbrake on a canoe. SO I'll probably have to plumb in a hoover after all. Toss - I didn't want even more noise added to the workshop (the neighbours with their um pa pa Dutch fair ground music is bad enough. Example =>


)

Despite the bathroom fan being a bit of a poof at least the glass is in!

Big sand blasting cabinet glass in1.JPG


Big sand blasting cabinet glass in2.JPG


I've got the lights in place...

Big sand blasting cabinet disco.JPG


...so this might be the beginning of an English D I S C O to counteract the (Dutch) carnival next door
 
Quick update for the big sand blasting cabinet fiasco.

Made a new gamble. Different fan system has been bought. Massive outlay of 35 euros including postage for a second hand house ventilation unit. It looks a bit like a large car demisting blower inside a plastic box. It has some weirdo low - medium - high fan speed wiring (all single phase 230V stuff - think it uses resistors to gear it down - not quite sure how that works with AC electrickery - not my thing - plan is to wire a 230V plug directly to the high speed contacts - BANG!)

Big sand blasting cabinet new suction.JPG


Still - anyway - what's the worst that can happen.

######

Additional calculations have been made on the back of an envelope =>

According to this site http://www.vacuumsguide.com/best-vacuum-suction-power/ vacuum cleaners suck about 50 to 100 CFM. According to google (so lazy these days eh?) that's equivalent to 85 - 170 cubic meters an hour. Bath room fan was rated at 90 cubic meters an hour. I couldn't feel that having any effect.

New house ventilation suction is rated at 340 cubic meters an hour. If this doesn't give me a warm wet feeling I'm going to be most distressed...

...this licking of finger - sucking and seeing is all very well but when you don't luck out and get what you hoped for the first time it gets a bit tedious
 
Today I finally got round to sorting out the workshop compressor / compressed air supply.

Workshop compressed air supply.JPG


Look one side has a filter and an oiling system - the other side has no turnips.

Little (bench top) sand blaster used to clean up the (original early style) injectors I got...

1965 series 2a station wagon diesel injectors cleaned up.JPG


...I might pop test them tomorrow to see how bad they are (!)
 
The sand blasting cabinet diversion continues:

Today I wired up the bigger home ventilation fan - I was lazy and just bunged it temporarily on the output of the 100mm bathroom fan.

Big sand blasting cabinet house ventilation bunged on.JPG


With the new fan running there is a definite flow of air - yes!

I tried running the original 100mm fan at the same time and - bingo - that seems like a go-er. So the secret seems to be run fans in series (?)...

...perhaps - dunno for sure. If this dual fan set up isn't as good as it could be then I'll be adding another cheapo 100mm or perhaps a 125mm in-line bathroom fan so I'll have three in a row. (To be continued)

#####

Just down the road there just so happens to be a "sand factory" that sifts sand. Instead of buying 25kg sacks from the on-line shops at 40 euros a pop excluding postage this factory will let me have a sack for 15 euros a go. So (a la Hollander) I strapped a box to the front carrier on me bike and wobbled back to the workshop: Seemed to cheer up the office workers!

Big sand blasting cabinet new speed blast1.JPG


This is red oxide speed blast. I don't see why they need to add in polystyrene **** to the box though - what's the point? Are sand bags known for not stacking well (and perhaps not holding back the floods)?

Big sand blasting cabinet new speed blast2.JPG


Anyway as you can see someone needs to get back on his bike and get at least another sack...
 
(WARNING - ACTUAL LAND ROVER RELATED CONTENT!)

Pop testing

Well a first go at seeing how things are going to / not going to work out.

Dusted off the cheapo pop tester and clamped it to the workbench

1965 series 2a station wagon pop testing injectors1.JPG


The four injectors I have are all releasing a bit low - they were between 12 MPa and 13 MPa - quite close to each other which is a good sign they were probably a set and not just four randomly picked out of a box ones

1965 series 2a station wagon pop testing injectors2.JPG


Noticed a knackered union - no specific number for that in the parts book => I will have to start a separate thread on that I guess!

1965 series 2a station wagon pop testing injectors3.JPG


Direction of the jets all looked a bit daft and sideways but according to the green book that's about right. Mentions a special attachment for "proper" observations though - something to learn more about I guess.

1965 series 2a station wagon pop testing injectors4.JPG


(Safety warning - despite the copious size of your gonads etc etc atomized diesel isn't good for you - wear a mask - catch the squirting - don't "feel" the squirt with your hand - danger etc etc)

1965 series 2a station wagon pop testing injectors5.JPG


#####

Note to self

Modifications to be made: additional gauge with a clearer scale - shut off valves (inch by 3/4)
 
I've seen a clear plastic bottle used with a suitably sized neck or modded top used to more clearly see the spray pattern, which if you set up four and link the injectors to a pump you can see differences more easily and compare volume each injector shift over a set time.
 
I've seen a clear plastic bottle used with a suitably sized neck or modded top used to more clearly see the spray pattern, which if you set up four and link the injectors to a pump you can see differences more easily and compare volume each injector shift over a set time.
Thanks - I have a similar plan that will also involve the pump.

First I'm looking forward to modifying the cheapo pop tester I've got so it will be a bit more useful. First step is to get a gauge that has a clearer scale for the range I'm currently interested in. I also want it to do other things. I'm also on the look out for diesel injector testing fluid (might be a bit nicer to play with)...
 
Gave the vibratory drum / trommel another go today with a load of red aluminium oxide sand that was used on my driveway years ago and saved for another day: Still full of twigs and stones. (I need to get round to sorting out a set of aggregate sieves)

I kind of like the idea of the vibratory drum because bit like a house elf it'll work away whilst you are doing other things. (Update so far - walnut shells OK for cleaning and kind of polishing - doesn't do much with rust)

So today heater tubes =>

1965 series 2a station wagon heater tubes in vibrating drum1.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon heater tubes in vibro drum2.JPG


After minimal scraping with a file (to get the big bits off) and about 50 minutes in the drum it got to this stage

1965 series 2a station wagon heater tubes in vibro drum3.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon heater tubes in vibro drum4.JPG


Kind of getting there. I get the feeling I need to be using a slightly coarser grit. Any one had experience with these things?
 
Red letter day:

BULKHEAD REPAIRS (partial) DAY ONE

Using the vice mounted bending thingy I bent this bit of metal as repair section for the top lip of the bulkhead just above the vent holes

The rust here is really weird. The inside seems to have almost gone but the outer part of this section is quite sound. I guess it could have been replaced in the past.

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead top lip repair1.JPG


Gentle cutting out with Dremel (over priced **** tool) and my handy Bosch 10.8V angle grinder (have I mentioned that before? Really good little tool)

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead top lip repair2.JPG


Ferrous cornflakes anyone?

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead top lip repair3.JPG


Oh look an action shot =>

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead top lip repair4.JPG


Easy does it: Bend the busted parts together when you find a spot weld - twist and out

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead top lip repair5.JPG


Sometimes (Chaka demus and) pliers are needed - fatigue the joint by twisting and it comes out nicely with out arsing up the other bit of metal. If you try to pry things apart too much it will result in bending.

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead top lip repair6.JPG


After a little bit of wire brushing and sanding the other part looks in kind of OK shape

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead top lip repair7.JPG


The plan is to Rustyco the surface - sand again and then try Zinga as a "weld through primer" (Their website says it can be done)

Trial fit =>

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead top lip repair8.JPG


Bit of trimming to be done then sparks will fly

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead top lip repair9.JPG
 
Looking good love the Chaka Demus reference
I don't know about you but I always thought the real talent was with Pliers - he was lumbered with his mate...

(showing me age again)

BULKHEAD REPAIRS (partial) DAY TWO =>

There's a 141cm long bit of capping metal that goes in the "gutter" part of the bulkhead (on the inside where I guess most people put their Werther's Originals and perhaps a 3/8" spanner)

In the real world - when you're not a struggling DIYer - this job would be done on a nice big guillotine and a decent folding machine and be done in ten minutes. Here (where I am) it took a bit longer. Starting with a bit of 1mm thick Zincor =>

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead making gutter piece1.JPG


Cut cut cut cut cut - grind grind

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead making gutter piece2.JPG


Add in supports to stop it from drooping

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead making gutter piece3.JPG


Off into the hand shears - trimming off about 1 to 2mm from the coarse cut edge made by the grinding disc

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead making gutter piece4.JPG


Gorra put a bend along the length too =>

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead making gutter piece5.JPG


(Yes yes that bench needs a tidy)

Those vice mounted bending jaws really are a good buy.

They are not mega easy to use for these long lengths, however, as every time you crunch / bend each bit you need to move them along to the next position on your carefully drawn line.

Because each of the 28 positions (!) used to make the bend along the whole length - the positions of these jaws do not line up exactly - so the chances of a bit of waviness are high.

I'll try and draw an explanation of how the slightly unequal bending effect tends to pucker up the edges of the fold and induce distortion (need to think about that however). You can flatten parts a bit in the vice to get the bend to sit a bit better on a flat surface...

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead making gutter piece6.JPG


...but as you can see in both of these pictures there's a slight amount of distortion.

This waviness can be held down and clamped but tomorrow (may be in a few days) I'll show a trick to make the bend sit a bit flatter.

1965 series 2a station wagon bulkhead making gutter piece7.JPG


Next I need to cut out the holes for this gutter piece
 
Back
Top