110 Speedo drive removal

My speedo finally decided it didn't like bouncing around any longer so gave up and now just sits there at 0 mph.
Thinking the cable would be the obvious first point of attack I replaced it but no, the needle remains firmly planted at zero.
Now I'm trying to get the drive out of the transfer box, assuming the plastic drive may have worn.
Problem: I've soaked it wd40 and tried to knock it out from underneath and working between the seats but no, there's no sign of movement.
Any tips from those that have dome it in the past would be appreciated.

Leicester said:

My speedo finally decided it didn't like bouncing around any longer so gave up and now just sits there at 0 mph.
Thinking the cable would be the obvious first point of attack I replaced it but no, the needle remains firmly planted at zero.
Now I'm trying to get the drive out of the transfer box, assuming the plastic drive may have worn.
Problem: I've soaked it wd40 and tried to knock it out from underneath and working between the seats but no, there's no sign of movement.
Any tips from those that have dome it in the past would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

id remove hand brake assembly and then the output housing draining oil first then prise speedo out

Thanks mate, I guessed it'd be a drama considering it's been in there for 24 years.
I'll look again tomorrow as my work lamp gave up too!!

Further advice please:
Rear prop and handbrake assembly removed, transfer box fluids dropped so I've got a good view of the rear output housing.
Before I go further, does the drive flange need to come off or will the assembly within simply withdraw as one when I undo the casing bolts?
While I stick the plasters any help or advice would be gratefully accepted.

Leicester said:

Further advice please:
Rear prop and handbrake assembly removed, transfer box fluids dropped so I've got a good view of the rear output housing.
Before I go further, does the drive flange need to come off or will the assembly within simply withdraw as one when I undo the casing bolts?
While I stick the plasters any help or advice would be gratefully accepted.

Click to expand...

flange stays on the whole lot pulls off

You're a star.
I'd hoped that with the brake assembly out of the way I might have had more access to the drive gear but no, as is always the case there're other obstacles.
Better get up to Gotts before they close for a gasket and replacement fluids.

Any damage to the old inner cable?
Have you checked to see if the speedo drive turns when you turn the output flange?
With the new cable connected to the speedo have you tried turning the other end with your fingers to see if the speedo moves?

Had the cable break on my RRC in August. Mine's a 2 piece, a long cable from the box into the car & a short piece from that joined together under the dash to the angled speedo drive. The front end (about 1" long) of the long cable had sheared off.
AMD didn't have one specifically for mine, but comparing their stock they had the one for 110/90. the only difference being that it was slightly longer than mine. Fitted perfectly.
Turning the box end of the new inner cable with my fingers got the speedo to the mid 20s

For anyone who may struggle with this problem, here's how I finally overcame it.
Firstly, do as "Jamesmartin" suggests and remove the final drive shaft.
It's easy enough from underneath to remove the handbrake assembly and unbolt the shaft. This gives you something you can hold in a vice to work on.
Chisels and drifts didn't help as the speedo drive carrier is offset, and, as was to prove, mine was in and solid!!
I tried heating the area around the drive gear figuring expansion would help but no, it wouldn't move.
Fearful of damaging the casting (or something else expensive) I decided to weld a 19mm nut onto the steel drive body and use the double nut and bolt idea to gain some purchase on the unit.
With a socket and breaker-bar (and an assistant armed with a can of wd40) finally it moved, euphoria.
A little more back and forth movement and it literally fell out.
New gaskets (faces cleaned of course) in place, shaft back in to the box, handbrake cleaned before refitting and prop bolted on, all working again.

I hope this small missive helps the next owner that needs some advice.
Many thanks to Jamesmartin for your comments, you certainly pointed me in the right direction.