110 defender rebuild project and v8 conversion

farmershort said:

And I can make the link in my head between the operation of the pushrod, and the clutch itself, for engaging drive from the engine... I wonder if I'm missing some parts...

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do you mean can't make the link ?

( as the clutch sits now, inside the cover, drive is engaged - and the release bearing pushes on the cover springs to enable just enough clearance / space between the pressure plate, friction plate and flywheel to disengage drive - does that help? )

Yes well spotted.. I meant can't. Now corrected in the OP.

I haven't done much today as we were viewing a couple of smallholdings in East Devon... One of them looks like an option, but the vultures are circling and the agents want it to go to auction... I despise greed.

Anyway, I'll have a look at the whole set up tomorrow with your explanation in mind - thanks.

I realised that I hadn't ordered the slave cylinder actuator rod.... Sodding slave cylinder didn't come with one... Very very annoying. Now ordered, so I'll carry on with the periphal stuff tomorrow whilst I wait for that to arrive.

Also looks like ashtree might have found me a tub at a decent price too.

Let's see if I can copy and paste my post from my v8 fuel tank thread... Including pics:

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Ok folks, here's the finished article:

Fuel pump - for this I bought an OE pump from lrdirect, as well as an allmakes pump with assembly. Sadly there's not option for an OE pump together with assembly.

The one on the right is then the OE pump on the all makes assembly. 5cm of HP fuel hose extends the length, and the metal frame only has one screw in it, to allow the over extension.


You'll notice that the pattern pump had a different electrical connector on it. The spares to correct this came with the allmakes bundle.

Here's the AMR sender, with a few mods.. Bent the arm out slightly, cut the "return" pipe off to about 5cm long, slide on some HP fuel hose to direct the return fuel into the fuel pump well in the tank. Final mod.. Swap the plastic ball over to face the opposite side, so it doesn't catch on the well wall.



Here's the view of the pump from the sender hole:



In order to show the sender arrangement, I rigged up the pattern pump on a bit of fuel hose so you can see:



You can just about make out the return hose near the bottom of the pump.

So, that's it. Many thanks for the help folks!

My thread stripping is becoming a theme... Thought I'd bolt the tbox and gearbox together properly tonight. Haynes and the workshop manual both say 45nm... Great. All goes well until I torque up a new nylock nut on the centre stud between the casings... I get to somewhere around 30nm, 35 maybe, and it just strips!

I managed to get a screw driver under the nut eventually and got just enough purchase to be able to wind the whole stud out.

I'd read online that on earlier editions of the lt230 this was actually a bolt, but if you use one that's too long, it jams the mechanism in the tbox. Now that I have the stud out, I can see the correct length, so I'll replace it with a bolt tomorrow I think... I guess it needs a drop of liquid gasket sealant on it too.



Thank God the thread in the casing is OK!

I have the (probably) bad habit of torquing bolts by feel rather than by torque wrench. I rarely ever strip threads and have never had a bolt come loose on me. If it is happening too frequently to you I would question the quality of your nuts and bolts.

earlier lt230s used a stud in top and bottom front holes and a long stud in rear drivers side top one, i think it was 300 tdi when they put bolts in the front 2 holes which if too long will jam the intermediate gear, i prefer the stud as you can remove t/box without draining it,if you use the bolts use m10 x 40 in the 2 front, cheap nuts and bolts of which there are a lot about wont take much torque your better tightening by hand the box is located by 2 dowels and bolts only need to keep the 2 boxes clamped together

@farmershort - here's a link for some useful torque settings for metric bolts

http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorqueNm.aspx

plenty of info on that site too.

If that is M10, and stripped at 35Nm, then either it was a duff nut, or, perhaps your torque wrench needs calibrating ?

It's the thread on the stud that stripped, not the nut. The nuts are BZP 8 from Westfield fasteners... Not had anything from them strip yet.

farmershort said:

It's the thread on the stud that stripped, not the nut. The nuts are BZP 8 from Westfield fasteners... Not had anything from them strip yet.

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must have stripped the tread in the box in that case , that thread wont take what steel nut and bolt will, though it should take 25ftlbs

good point about the torque wrench

jamesmartin said:

must have stripped the tread in the box in that case , that thread wont take what steel nut and bolt will, though it should take 25ftlbs

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Nope, the stud wound out perfectly once I'd got the nut to grip it. Checked as soon as I suspected the nut was stripping, and the stud was not moving in the slightest. I also double checked that an m10x35 bolt screws in nicely, and indeed it does... It's just the stud that's knackered.

Yes perhaps torque wrench calibration is needed... But this is the first thing to strip with no good reason... The shock absorber thread was down the haynes lies.

farmershort said:

Nope, the stud wound out perfectly once I'd got the nut to grip it. Checked as soon as I suspected the nut was stripping, and the stud was not moving in the slightest. I also double checked that an m10x35 bolt screws in nicely, and indeed it does... It's just the stud that's knackered.

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ah well thats good news , ive never had any issues with those studs ,was it a new one

jamesmartin said:

ah well thats good news , ive never had any issues with those studs ,was it a new one

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I can only assume so. Bright and clean and fresh from ashcrofts (who refurbed the gbox and tbox) I'll give them an email just to let them know tomorrow. If it does turn out that the tbox doesn't hold the toque when I do the new bolt up, then it'll be going back to them for helicioling.

thats something at least ,but i know its annoying when you want to get on

jamesmartin said:

thats something at least ,but i know its annoying when you want to get on

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Oh yes, I'll consider myself bloomin lucky tbh if it goes together nicely tomorrow. I'm going to undo all the bolts though as I can't remember seeing locating dowels... I wasn't looking for them though, just trying to figure out how to join the boxes without breaking anything!

I'd rather a lost day with a stripped stud than a lost fortnight waiting for a 3rd party to fix something.

You're not having a lot of luck with that torque wrench. If I were you I'd hide it at the back of the cupboard and only get it out for mission critical jobs like cylinder head bolts. It's very difficult to judge the optimum and even compression of the gasket by hand. But for most everyday bolts I tend to feel them. After a while you get a sense of when the bolt or stud is just stretching a little and holding the components together tightly.

I would just buy a new decent quality torque wrench - something like a Teng - gazillions of them on evil bay for about £40.... worth every penny in my book - IIRC, I have five of the things

letting ashcrofts know is a good idea too - just in case.....

Disco1BFG said:

I would just buy a new decent quality torque wrench - something like a Teng - gazillions of them on evil bay for about £40.... worth every penny in my book - IIRC, I have five of the things

letting ashcrofts know is a good idea too - just in case.....

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I'm relatively sure it's a teng I have now... it certainly wasn't the cheapest option - as I very rarely buy the cheapest...

email sent to ashcrofts. will see what comes back. I just hope the casing doesn't need helicoiling, as that hole goes right through into the chamber - so effectively another strip and rebuild required.

farmershort said:

I'm relatively sure it's a teng I have now... it certainly wasn't the cheapest option - as I very rarely buy the cheapest...

email sent to ashcrofts. will see what comes back. I just hope the casing doesn't need helicoiling, as that hole goes right through into the chamber - so effectively another strip and rebuild required.

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One of the reasons i like Teng stuff is that they will re-calibrate for you... IIRC, i sent mine back through the local Engineers Merchants....

a quick search, and youtube to the rescue !!! (Teng's own instructions on how to DIY !)