1.8 litre 2001 petrol

hi all,i am considering buying the above,i know some people knock
them down,but are they as bad as a lot of people make out,i.e,
head gaskets blowing left right n centre,plus other faults which
occur with them,i seem to remember the trouble about the recall
of them to change faulty gaskets,which seemed to be a production
cock-up,which years or models did this period cover please,any info
greatly appreciated.regards stan.

An l series diesel or td4 are far better bet

Don't buy one with your fingers crossed. Lots of research on the problems, then have a GOOD poke round it. Service history is a must too.

cheers fellas,but cost of a newer one at the minute is out,i need
a reliable enough car for a few months till i get my disco
back on the road,regards stan.

If its only for a few months - buy one with a few months warranty

My 1.8 has been no trouble since I bought it 2 years ago - took some advice from the good people on here and put on a prt thermostat, while doing this found that the jiggle valve had already been removed - alls well

The 1.8 is one of those cars that can be a gamble.
I feel prevention is better than cure. If it's had a new HG? monitor the coolant weekly. If it hasn't, it's much better to fit a new gasket before it fails. When you fit the new gasket, fit the steel dowels instead of the plastic ones. Also fit the PRT thermostat. I use the standard polymer gasket instead of the multi layer steel version.

Nodge68 said:

I use the standard polymer gasket instead of the multi layer steel version.

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Why?

TD4 best way to go

Epicuser said:

Why?

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Because I'm mad!!??!!

No seriously.
There is logic to my preference of the elastopolymer gasket.
First off, it's more mailable around the fire rings. This results in better at sealing around the fire ring, particularly if the liners are at slightly different hights. The MLS gasket won't tolerate uneven liner hights.
Secondly the fine heat curing sealant applied to the MLS gasket requires a perfect surface to seal against or it will leak. It's not uncommon for the MLS gasket to leak coolant around the exterior of the block. This would cause an issue with coolant lose, air lock and subsequently HGF.
The head surface is easy to restore but the block face isn't without a complete strip down.
Thirdly the MLS gasket being rigidity glued to the gasket faces is something of a concern, particularly with an expansion happy engine like the K Series. We've all seen the Polymer gasket de-laminate. This is a result of movement. How will the MLS without a flexible seal surface cope after 60K miles?
Personally I prefer the Polymer gasket a PRT and would simply replace the gasket at a set milage of say 50K.

Nodge68 said:

Because I'm mad!!??!!

No seriously.
There is logic to my preference of the elastopolymer gasket.
First off, it's more mailable around the fire rings. This results in better at sealing around the fire ring, particularly if the liners are at slightly different hights. The MLS gasket won't tolerate uneven liner hights.
Secondly the fine heat curing sealant applied to the MLS gasket requires a perfect surface to seal against or it will leak. It's not uncommon for the MLS gasket to leak coolant around the exterior of the block. This would cause an issue with coolant lose, air lock and subsequently HGF.
The head surface is easy to restore but the block face isn't without a complete strip down.
Thirdly the MLS gasket being rigidity glued to the gasket faces is something of a concern, particularly with an expansion happy engine like the K Series. We've all seen the Polymer gasket de-laminate. This is a result of movement. How will the MLS without a flexible seal surface cope after 60K miles.

Personally I prefer the Polymer gasket and would simply replace it at a set milage of say 50K.

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Makes sense.

Useful info for the 1.8 boys & girls.

In many ways I would prefer a petrol (v6 though-no 1.8 auto) but due to my mileage of 16-20,000 miles a year based on previous years, I could not afford to run one.

So TD4 auto it will remain. Now it is sorted it is a great motor.

Freelanders aren't as bad as they get rated IF:

A. You buy a diesel
B. You remove the rear prop shaft
C. It's well maintained
D. You don't open any windows
E. You have your own dealer level diagnostic kit

But I'd choose a td4 freelander over a p38 any day

YNP said:

Freelanders aren't as bad as they get rated IF:

A. You buy a diesel
B. You remove the rear prop shaft
C. It's well maintained
D. You don't open any windows
E. You have your own dealer level diagnostic kit

But I'd choose a td4 freelander over a p38 any day

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Wow :lol:

I wouldn't


k-series rule

freelaner said:

k-series rule :d

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+1

Freelaner said:

Wow :lol:

I wouldn't


k-series rule

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not if yu want reliability.

The Mad Hat Man said:

not if yu want reliability.

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mines reliable


as for the P38...........i'll have to wait and see

The Mad Hat Man said:

not if yu want reliability.

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two years reliable for me ...except when the fool pump went

Freelaner said:

mines reliable


as for the P38...........i'll have to wait and see

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yeah - but yu aint a normal punter.....

The Mad Hat Man said:

yeah - but yu aint a normal punter.....

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surprisingly normal MHM as are most k-series engines

the only ones we hear about are the bad ones.......anyway i'm not getting into that particular game of tennis again

Land Rover Freelander technical service bulletins