Freelander 1 1.8 k Series 2003 Project

Another one ! Yes, new thread, new project. While I finish the Td4 and V6 I have bought a January 2003 1.8 K Series (Spares or Repair) !!
Picked it up yesterday, initial very quick survey:
17 inch alloys, neat side steps, had new discs / calipers, wood trim to dash, much coveted cup holders, ES spec. 3/4 tank fuel. MOT till Nov 18.
So that's the good bits. Bad bits (so far):
Misfiring badly but running, showing codes P0301, P0303, P0313. Cyl 1 & 3 misfire (do they share a coil pack?). Two of the door retraining straps broken from body, jack cubby full of water, rear wiper broken off.

Also has 'personal plate' - anyone 900 years old with intials GRS want it ?? AND it isn't Epsom Green, it is black so doesn't match my other 2 !

So - a fixer I think. Drove onto trailer but my guess was firing on 2 - smells very rich at the rear.

Pictures - you want pictures............

Anti-freeze smells good and clean and oil is golden brown...... Let the resto commence.....

Any ideas on first places to look for the misfire - it is the 1 & 3 that may be a clue.

andyfreelandy said:

Cyl 1 & 3 misfire (do they share a coil pack?).

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No. The shared coils are 1-4 and 2-3.
A misfire between adjacent cylinders is indicative of the HG fire ring between then has failed.

I'd do a compression test on all cylinders to get an idea of the engine's condition.

Thanks but 1 & 3 aren't adjacent will do compression test as it is simples !

andyfreelandy said:

Thanks but 1 & 3 aren't adjacent will do compression test as it is simples !

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No they're not, but I had a brain fart, so anything is possible.

I'd check simple stuff first like plugs, compression and fuel rail pressure.

I gnore me, 1&3 dont share! Just trying to remember what issue i had.

Bad memory, 1&3 have the ballast packs on top, the springs inside sometimes don't sit on the plug properly.

I had the same problem as you and pulled the boot off and corrected the spring just to keep me going.

You've probably found this page already, but might be a helpful list of things to look for: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0313

Glad you're fixing it.

Monkfish....right on the buttton! Easiest fix I've had. Compression all 245 - 250 psi. Contact springs on plug caps under coil packs had collapsed. Cleaned plugs, tweaked springs, contact cleaner on ignition circuit plugs. Started and is as sweet as a nut! Reset fault codes. EML has gone out and drives really well. VCU is a bit tight but can refill that. Thanks for all the input.

andyfreelandy said:

Compression all 245 - 250 psi.

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What 245-250, is that Psi? I'm gassing not as that's very high, unless it's a diesel.

Will check figures on gauge. Did it in the dark main thing was all about the same but I thought it high. Used to minis at about 120 ish.....

andyfreelandy said:

I thought it high. Used to minis at about 120 ish..

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A good condition K series gives a compression pressure of around 175 Psi

Seems to be working well - so I guess the compression figures are fine. Calibration on some DIY gauges can be suspect, but so long as the figures are reproducible and each cylinder is roughly the same as the others, probably nothing to worry about!

Sounds like a good fix with the leads and contacts with the spark plugs

No. Checked again. My trusty gauge shows 200 plus!!! All about the same anyway. Will also do a bubble test on header tank with chemical to prove all ok. Thanks all.

andyfreelandy said:

My trusty gauge shows 200 plus!!

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It's over reading by quite a large amount.
As long as they're all much the same, then the actual pressure displayed isn't that important.

Engine seems fine then, been running and checking it is bled and all good. VCU on the other hand ! It was really tight when turning and so I didn't push it and did 99 point turns to prevent damage ! Got to do the OWUT today. Fitted the bar and my 5kg mass and got my stop watch ready. It doesn't move at all under load. You can turn it by hand but all my body weight required. Prop is coming off.
Couple of things, what is an acceptable amount of free play in the IRD output shaft when the wheel is rocked (noting that the VCU is solid)? This one does about 15-20mm of rotation at the IRD.
Also - if I want to test a VCU off the car (before fitting it) do I divide the time by the diff ratio - i.e about 7 - 10 seconds?? (or half the diff ratio or twice the diff ratio - as it is one wheel up and turning and the other stationary)??

Blimmey- that’s cream crackered then. How does the transshipment sound? I wouldn’t blame you if you didn’t know given how tight the VCU is!!!

The what ??? It sounds a bit rough in the transmission tunnel department if that is what you mean !!

Lol - touch typing too quickly on an iPhone there! You guessed correctly: transmission

andyfreelandy said:

This one does about 15-20mm of rotation at the IRD.

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The IRD needs a rebuild as there shouldn't be more than a couple of mm rotation in the rear drive pinion.

Pop the pinion off and look for damage. If it looks ok with no tooth damage on the pinion or crounwheel, then a bearing set should put IRD back into service again.

Looks like I might have saved it. Front prop CV knackered but IRD seems ok now I've been underneath. Fitted replacement front prop amd vcu and all good and quiet !

The future for this one - sale I think - check out For Sale if interested. Don't need 5 !