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'03MY L322 Petrol 114k5 miles

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by RichardSEL, Jan 4, 2019.

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  1. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    That's clear. In other words, there should not ever have been a result of lost codes occuring simply by changing battery. Or by changing the cells in the keys. But those of us that have worked with early EEPROMS know that's quite possible -- external RF fields, intermittent supply volts, incomplete programing...

    Yet I found that I was losing my key programing after I'd changed batteries. The "keeping the unlock button pressed while pressing the lock button three times" procedure did restore. But only temporarily.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2019
  2. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    This is a useful thread especially the post #14 who also adds that the system had been substantially modified in operation to avoid what I'm experiencing. Seems posts go back to at least six years or more about this. So either my L322's been fortunate, or this fault has been fixed / fudged in the past. What with no service history apart from a few parts invoices not connected to this fault, and some photocopies of main agent services, there's nowt.

    Currently I'm at a fork in confirmed diagnosis. That I'm not getting anything click-worthy from the Ignition Barrel. And that the steering column lock is doing three clicks when key is inserted. But I can't recall whether three clicks is the norm for a good working system

    The other fork is that the car does not remotely lock nor unlock...

    Continual re-training's a red herring as that can't be confirmed as accepted becuase I'm only at 10º, not at position 1 where, according to that note, re-training's permitted
     
  3. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    Answering myself it would appear that I was doing key retraining but (then just two days ago) not knowing the difference between 10º and position 1 must've already been in position 1 and the "fault" was just starting to show itself. Otherwise retraining would not have occured.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2019
  4. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    Just been out to check whether holding the key against the 10º stop for 30 secs then back to 0º then forward again helps (as per that thread in Range Rovers.net) It does not.

    On the plus side on the steering column is that the wheel does free up. But only until the next lock position -- that's by the time there's been no startup or key getting to position 1 message to it
     
  5. Saint.V8

    Saint.V8 Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

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    As I suspected.....



    You can turn the ignition past the 10deg position and unlock the switch and the steering with a totally blank key....

    I would suggest if you can't, it is a voltage issue, mechanical issue in the ignition switch, or steering lock ECU/Solenoid issue.....as even with a transponder and coil not working you should still be able to turn the key if they are not working or the key isn't recognised.....
     
  6. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    There are very few people in this world that would take the t
    There are very few people that would take their time to make a video explaining a fix like this.

    Hats off to ya Saint.. :)
     
  7. Wazzajnr

    Wazzajnr Well-Known Member

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    Had a similar issue with my vauxhall ampera before it went back to the lease company.
    Steering wouldn't unlock.
    Pull the fuse, you would get a few normal operations then back to failure. New column (under warranty) solved the issue
    Sounds like you have a duff solenoid somewhere.
    Great video Saint, well done. What can't speak can't lie!
     
  8. gold rover

    gold rover Well-Known Member

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    3ef815416f775098fe977004015c6193.gif ;)
     
    Mark Piercy and holidaychicken like this.
  9. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    I've asked two indie workshops (15 and 45 miles away) to quote for change out of Ignition Switch assembly.
    Both have the full diagnostic set. So hopefully I should be back and running this time next week. And if one or the
    other can't get replacement YXB000080 then to remove the locking pin of existing.

    All that assumes that their more effective diagnostics confirms. As they advertise themselves as RR specialists, hopefully that'll confirm what you've already divined from this distance

    Someone's squirted penetrating oil down the barrel as the key blade end comes back with about 1/8" black inside the blade's groove. I'll try and get that lower steering column cowling off later today to unplug as per the previous video -- reverting

    You have the patience of a saint :rolleyes:

    ... likes photography does she? Nudge nudge, say no more squire...
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2019
  10. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    There's still two little gremlins spoiling the Ignition Barrel pin stuck theory.
    (a) The Central Locking doesn't operate remotely
    (b) There's still a voltage drop at battery terminals between disconnected and connected (but with door open)

    Just waiting on the recovery truck now
     
  11. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    Recovered with the rustling of neighbours' lace and scowles. Helpful yells of: "Are you going to be long?" and "I've got deliveries to make, can't you move over?" -- y'get the picture. Just in time for the early evening rush hour that snarls up the A2 from Blackwall Tunnel exit to nearly Crayford... still I don't mind. Luckily I havn't got a business that relies on good connections to the channel ports...

    How long does a diagnostic session usually take on the proper dealer tool?
     
  12. Mark Piercy

    Mark Piercy Well-Known Member

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    Depends on what is or isn't found!! I would have a go at getting that oil out of the ignition barrel.... Squirting a load of contact cleaner down it with a rag over the top will stop it spraying on the surrounding parts and might help the contacts in the barrel... Possibly.... o_O;)
     
  13. Saint.V8

    Saint.V8 Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

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    As said.....depends, plugging it in and reading codes is a mere few moments, interogating the system settings and getting them right could take a short while depending on what they find and if the data is scrambled or not requiring a reprogramming.

    Fingers deeply crossed for you.
     
    Disco1BFG likes this.
  14. Disco1BFG

    Disco1BFG Well-Known Member

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    +1 . :)
     
  15. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    To the Hall of Doom (mechanics) only to be told:
    "We've removed steering cowl and removed plug and shorted pins 1 - 7. That allows the key to turn into position 1 that brings up the dash. But the start mode is still inhibited, engine just won't turn. Also the steering lock seems not to be releasing fully. The diagnostic is not conclusive as to where the fault lies if there's a single fault. But your key barrel, coil, and are releasing fine to ignition position now.

    "The key that was working fully doesn't, the key you say wasn't fully working now does. The remote lock / unlock works.

    "We suggest the XYZ switch as that could be the reason why start's not happening. If it's not that then it'll be a new steering column which is £6,000. Or a re-manufactured one, which I don't know yet the prices of.

    "We would only fit an OEM new XYZ switch which is £580 inc VAT +1 hour of labour. We have only ever had two RRs with fault like this -- one was the XYZ switch, the other was the steering column lock which is integral to the whole column assembly so can't be bought and fitted seperately".

    I have authorised the XYZ switch but I see that there are several used offered with warranty around. Guess the usual risks apply -- I've never got s/h electrics for any of my Jags but there again I've never had such a fault with them (three XJ8 over six years + seven years with various Citroen CX and a DS -- reported as
    notoriously bad in the electrics dept.)

    I have asked that they check the steering column switch (solenoid?) area to see whether there's any marks of hammering as have read that some have reported that this can free the solenoid.

    Does this all make sense and fit with what the guru's in here know or have gleaned?
     
  16. holidaychicken

    holidaychicken Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jan 16, 2019
  17. holidaychicken

    holidaychicken Well-Known Member

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    Can't remember if i posted this before, there are a few threads I'm sticking my oar into like this one so i am confused myself where you are.
    steering lock page 1.JPG

    steering lock page 2.JPG
     
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  18. Saint.V8

    Saint.V8 Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

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    The gearbox XYZ switch tells the various ECUs what position the gear selector has selected and is mounted on the side of the gearbox......the key cannot be removed from the ignition without the XYZ switch saying it is in P or N (I think N....never tried it). also, if the on dash display is showing the correct gear selector position (P/N/R/D/1/2/3/4/5 etc) then the XYZ is working correctly....A decent diagnostics system reading live data will confirm which position the XYZ is reporting when the gear selector is moved about.....If I can I'll do a vid tomorrow showing such.

    Also do a search for post by a member on here called Bemble or a google search for posts by RRPhil (same guy) about how to test the XYZ switch outputs to prove it is this......this guy is a fecking genius when it comes to the ZF gearbox.

    If the XYZ is not satisfied - it won't crank as it can't determine if the gearbox is in a drive gear.

    Now when it comes to the steering column, there are many many internet search results about a few work-arounds if the steering lock solenoid is jammed or stuck of the ECU isn't pulling it out correctly. One involves drilling the unit is a very specific place and applying lube, and another is taking the steering lock housing apart, removing the solenoid and jury-rigging the hall sensor to fool the system into thinking the lock solenoid is in the right place before it releases the ignition switch and can start the car.

    You see, inside the steering column ECU box thingy is a solenoid that is used to lock the steering column. When the key goes in the ignition and the system agrees it is the right key, First the solenoid releases the steering lock, then oncethe solenoid is in the right place (via a signal from a sensor on the back of the solenoid) it allows the ignition lock solenoid to release allowing you to turn the key.....

    If the Steering column ECU solenoid isn't working it won't let the ignition lock solenoid release to turn the ignition switch on.

    £6k is steep for a column, but they are not available new anymore and many are refurbed, trouble is they are beginnign to get scarce....but £6k scarce is a bit much......research and deft part searching is required before I would even consider that kind of price!
     
  19. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    Ah thanks the RR gods the P38 is much simpler, and cheaper to maintain!!

    6k for a column!!

    Fook that..

    You could get a reasonable early L322 for that!

    Heck even a nice late 2002 P38 Vogue SE :cool::D
     
  20. holidaychicken

    holidaychicken Well-Known Member

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