03 TDi4 Freelander Heater problem

Hello Folks,
Bought my dads TDi4, his dream car, he never had a problem with it, only had 35k on the clock and ran like a dream. Garaged every night and even wiped down if it was wet. (He's had a lot of rusty cars in his youth). He couldn't get better than 5k part-ex on a new F2 so sold it to me. Bargain I thought! Since getting it, the passenger window sticks when its down, then, seemingly on some sort of cycle for a week it's hard to start, (Very loud audible click, then nothing. Turning the ignition key on and off rapidly 20 or 30+ times will eventually get it going), then the next week it's fine. Had the starter moter stripped twice and both mechanics said it was perfect. Then it starts idling bad, rev counter fluctuating up and down when stationary at lights. Now the Heater is playing up. It heats up as normal in about 7 mins. First set of traffic lights on the way home from work is in 10 mins and within 10 sec the heater is pumping cold air. Takes the heater another 2mins at speed to warm up again, then its another 20mins of stop, start, all less than 5mins til I get home and I'm 'kin freezing! What's up with the heater. I can live with the other problems at the mo as I'm skint.
Regards
Sim

p.s. oh and the brakes are useless and very noisey, had them changed recently by a trusted (family member) car repair garge owner and there just as pathetic. Had better brakes on my purple chopper when i as six.

Just a passin' thought... never buy a motor from a relative! It just causes grief as who's to blame if it breaks down. Doesn't help that it's one of them gaylanders tho'

Oh, and btw Welcome tae the zone:welcome2:

Err!, Thanks, I think?
Plus I wouldn't dream of blaming my Dad for selling me a duff car, as I want his F2 next. ;-)

Sim

Check the ignition switch and the positive battery cable where it connects to the alternator.

Brakes don't usually get criticism so you need investigate the source of the noise and maybe check the vacuum system for leaks which might be affecting the servo assistance.

Check what Chaser says & if that doesn't work then I think you've still
got a starter solenoid problem, you can buy rebuild kits off ebay fairly cheaply. Try bleeding the cooling system just in case there is an airlock in the system, after that it's into checking for sticking vents, non operating flaps then thermostats. Don't know whether you have aircon or climate control which might be acting up.
Get an injector cleaner into the fuel (millers powersport 4) at double dose, definitely change the fuel filter as the 60,000 miles quoted by Landrover is way too long. Also change the crankcase breather filter/valve assembly unless you know for sure that it's been done within the last 12,000 miles. Full service history is NOT an accurate means of assessing whether this was carried out unless it is specifically itemised on the invoice as Landrover & BMW were rather slow to realise how critical it was that it be changed at such a regular interval.

silly answer but as it got the correct amount of antifreeze in also the thermastat may be dodgy. just a thought. on the starter i had the same problem and it turned out to be 2 contacts in the starter as chromiumuk said you can bye the kit off ebay for a£10 and 40mins later its as good as new.

The only problem I have had with freelander brakes is, there is no wear sensor/light on them and I scored my discs as I was expecting a warning light before the pads wore out.

Wow! Thanks for all the replys folks. Lots to look into there once I've got chrimbo out of the way. Oh and I may have found the source of my heating problem (blush). Noticed the rad expansion tank was empty. Topped it up and it seems fine now. Guess I have a leak in the radiator now as I check the water quite often.