Help required i have given up

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from the leccy manual i have managed to get the order of wires as follows, the letters in brackets are LR key letters:

1=(no) brown orange
2=(ug) blue green
3=(rb) red black

so if we assume the yellow wire is the blue/green wire, that goes in middle. then the other two go either side but you may have to swap em over!!
 
i think there in the right place as we tried swapping them about earlier and the order there in now seemed to make it run the best although still not good!
 
when the airbox was not there and it had the cone filter on it obviously it was just lying on the chassis banging about which may have caused this also?? its not happened since i got it, and it did drive home 200 miles like this without fault,
im not saying its not this it might be im only pointing this out also

Did it drive ok when you drove it home? If so then there must just be something that we're all missing. Have to be careful not to over-analyse it!

Guy
 
looks like it, will check tho tomorrow cos i in my pjamas now!!!

by the way, the maf on mine goes the other way to yours, the plug is on the other side. dunno if yours needs rotating 180 degs or swapping end to end???
 
you mean connector ar bottom instead of top?which would mean swapping the ends round yes
 
so the writing is the correct way up(the writing near the dent or burn) that will put the plug on the wing side not engine side but buckles still on airbox!
 
is this the part? you have gav
ebay item no 120438183173

Looks like the one I've just bought - got it from p38spares.co.uk:

Range Rover P38 GENUINE Gems Mass Airflow Meter - p38spares.co.uk - Land Rover and Range Rover Parts Worldwide

If you're limited with funds, don't keep buying bits unless you know you need them! If it was running ok before then chances are there's nothing wrong with the MAF.

Are you sure you connected it back up properly? Looks like it would be difficult to know with that wiring - are they all individually connected or do they go to a single plug?

Guy
 
each wire has like a small connector/spade type on end so they slide on individual and your right i dont really want to be buying anymore on the off chance it might fix it im passed that stage, now i only want to spend money on the problem if poss thats why the post is i have given up as inearly have!!
 
each wire has like a small connector/spade type on end so they slide on individual and your right i dont really want to be buying anymore on the off chance it might fix it im passed that stage, now i only want to spend money on the problem if poss thats why the post is i have given up as inearly have!!

try swapping the maf sensor round,ie end to end.
 
each wire has like a small connector/spade type on end so they slide on individual and your right i dont really want to be buying anymore on the off chance it might fix it im passed that stage, now i only want to spend money on the problem if poss thats why the post is i have given up as inearly have!!

Blimey. I hate bodges like that. Still, you're getting there. Don't give up! We're all rooting for you!
 
to me the only thing can be done is try cut the connector off another one maybe at scrappies but i would still have to join the wires all up,prob tidier and at least would be the right connector but im gonna have to find one now
 
Mass Air Flow Sensor (X105)
The sensing element of a Mass Air Flow Sensor
(X105) is a “hot wire anomometer” consisting of two
wires; one heated, one not. The air flows across the
wires, cooling the hot wire and thereby altering its
resistance. The ECM (Z132) measures this change
in resistance and so calculates the amount of air
flowing into the engine.
If the Mass Air Flow Sensor (X105) fails, the engine
will start and then die as the engine reaches 550 rpm
before the ECM (Z132) looks for the Mass Air Flow
Sensor (X105) signal.



Throttle Position Sensor (X171)
This sensor is a variable resistor. The signal informs
the ECM (Z132) of the actual position of the throttle
plate. Failure of the Throttle Position Sensor (X171)
will result in poor idle and lack of throttle response. If
the Throttle Position Sensor (X171) fails in the
“closed” mode, then the engine will only rev up to
1740 rpm when the ECM (Z132) will initiate “over run
fuel cut–off”.


Heated Oxygen Sensors (X139, X160, X289, X290)
The heated oxygen sensor consists of a titanium
metal sensor surrounded by a gas–permeable
ceramic coating. Oxygen in the exhaust gas diffuses
through the ceramic coating on the sensor and
reacts with the titanium wire, altering the resistance
of that wire. From this change in resistance, the
ECM (Z132) can calculate the percentage of oxygen
in the exhaust gas and adjust the injected fuel
quantity that as to achieve the correct air/fuel ratio.
This reduces the emissions of Carbon Monoxide
(CO), Hydrocarbons (HC) and oxides of Nitrogen
(NOX) to acceptable levels.
Presently, two heated oxygen sensors are used, one
in each exhaust down pipe just before the catalyst.
In the event of sensor failure, the system will default
to ”open loop”. Operation and fuelling will be
calculated using signals from the remaining ECM
inputs. The fault is indicated by illumination of the
malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). ECM diagnostics
also uses heated oxygen sensors to detect catalyst
damage, misfire and fuel system faults.


Idle Air Control Valve (M112)
The Idle Air Control Valve (M112) controls the idle
speed of the engine by moving the plunger a set
distance, known as a step. Fully open is zero steps
and fully closed is 180 steps. The motor moves each
step by sequentially changing the polarity to each of
the two coils.

thats from rave and it says it will idle then die??? which seems to be on the lines of whats hapening????
 
to me the only thing can be done is try cut the connector off another one maybe at scrappies but i would still have to join the wires all up,prob tidier and at least would be the right connector but im gonna have to find one now

my local scrappy will have one, i'll cut one off and send it up, prolly get it in my pocket if you know what i mean!! for now the wires you have will suffice!
 
when it is idling i can rev it right up all the way no problems and does not die when let foot off pedal just goes back to ticking around 500 rpm rough again
 
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