[P38] Exhaust gases in coolant

[kermit_rr]

If i ever had another rv8 that i knew was good, i would use ARP studs instead of the usual stretch bolts for the heads. Much less stress all round.. if a block is ever going to crack, it's near the bolts.
Something to consider if you take the heads off.
They aren't cheap but worth it if you have a good block. In my opinion.

 

[blue_cheese]

I'm currently using ARP studs on mine, one of my long term goals with this is to get the block redone with flanged liners, so I think I might reassemble for now (after fitting the new valley gasket) and then take it to a specialist soon.

Unfortunately there's not many of those here in south wales

 

[kermit_rr]

I'm currently using ARP studs on mine, one of my long term goals with this is to get the block redone with flanged liners, so I think I might reassemble for now (after fitting the new valley gasket) and then take it to a specialist soon.

Unfortunately there's not many of those here in south wales

If the car is generally in good condition then i think it's a good investment. I know it's not cheap but it's pretty much bullet proof peace of mind.
If it's done properly then the cylinder is sealed by the liner top and bottom

 

[blue_cheese]

The rover is to replace my currentlyeased car, because I don't do much driving these days. So happy to invest a little to solidify it.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Possibly, I've order a new gasket anyway. I got the Reinz one over the OEM one, hopefully that was the best choice.

How thick should you apply the sealant around the ports?

Wouldn't touch Reinz with yours these days. But seeing as I also put a Reinz head-gasket on mine earlier this year I guess we'll both be praying they're OK.

 

[Grrrrrr]

If the car is generally in good condition then i think it's a good investment. I know it's not cheap but it's pretty much bullet proof peace of mind.
If it's done properly then the cylinder is sealed by the liner top and bottom

Hmmm. rv8 is pretty good apart from crank wear around the seals, soft cam shafts and dodgy cylinder liners. Bolts would be the least of my worries although definitely nice if you have the cash.

 

[blue_cheese]

Remind me before I fit this new valley gasket:

1. Do I need to use RTV around the intake ports or just the coolant ports

2. Do I need any RTV on the rubber seals

Thanks

 

[MrGorsky]

I put it just around the coolant ports. But I run a bead around the port, all the way along the back and front of the valley (right over the 4 "V" shaped notches mentioned in RAVE) and then around the other port in one continuous bead. Rubber seal on top of that, and then another bead on top of the seal, then the gasket and clamp. Only a thin bead, not a great big log of a thing that squeezes out everywhere.... but I'll do almost anything to stop the leak from the valley gasket, and I've found this to be the only thing that works!

 

[blue_cheese]

Cheers, I'll have a go at that.

And it's 17NM for the seal clamp bolts, right?

 

[MrGorsky]

Thor instructions below... 18NM for a Thor engine. 17 for a GEMS.

 

[kermit_rr]

Thor instructions below... 18NM for a Thor engine. 17 for a GEMS.

View attachment 339954View attachment 339955

Crikey that's changing for the sake of changing

 

[blue_cheese]

It has mostly gone well.
New gasket is on and manifold is in place, with 11 out of 12 bolts in.
The last bolt (5 in the tightening diagram, one before the left rear) is cross threaded, so it's become a pain.
I didn't force it any further, it's a problem for tomorrow.
It's got the fuel rail next to it, so it's not as easy to get a wrench on and keep it aligned properly

 

[RangeRoller dt]

If things start to go a bit squirly it’s often best to go and have a cup of tea and/or leave it till tomorrow. Trust me I’m an eggspurt at snapping things that are generally indestructible. Even forced a bolt once but instead of the bolt shearing I snapped the spanner.

 

[blue_cheese]

I've reassembled everything that's in the cooling circuit and pressurised to 15 psi.
First attempt sent water everywhere because I didn't tighten a hose clamp properly.

I've left it to dry and set the pressure at 15psi again, how long should the system hold this pressure before it starts to drop off?

 

[pwood999]

I've reassembled everything that's in the cooling circuit and pressurised to 15 psi.
First attempt sent water everywhere because I didn't tighten a hose clamp properly.

I've left it to dry and set the pressure at 15psi again, how long should the system hold this pressure before it starts to drop off?

If the header tank cap is tight with no leaks, I would say until you release the pressure. more likely is a slow depressurise through the pump (unless it has a suitable valve ?)

 

[blue_cheese]

Nearly 3 hours later, the pressure is down to 6 psi. Seems I've got some more digging to do

 

[blue_cheese]

Found a leak, water pump hose clamp. Tightened and pressurised to 14 psi again, fingers crossed.

 

[kermit_rr]

Personally I'd give it 20 min.. if it holds good for that long then it's ok. In my opinion

 

[blue_cheese]

20 minutes later and it's holding at around 14 psi. Maybe a very small variance from where it was at the start

 

[kermit_rr]

Can you pump the pump without it attached to the car? Mine can if you don't put an adapter on. That way you can test the pump for small leaks