Elec-trick-ary (Various)

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ok, cheers daft, thats all i wanted to know. So im looking at a distribution block instead then? Im struggling to find one withot making one myself. devon4x4 do a neat fuse box but like i said i already have one. People who have kit cars and aux fuseboxes must have it wired in safely somehow. how do they do it. its not like i bought an uncommon fusebox.

hmmmmmmmmm...

G
 
Griffdowg said:
ok, cheers daft, thats all i wanted to know. So im looking at a distribution block instead then? Im struggling to find one withot making one myself. devon4x4 do a neat fuse box but like i said i already have one. People who have kit cars and aux fuseboxes must have it wired in safely somehow. how do they do it. its not like i bought an uncommon fusebox.

hmmmmmmmmm...

G
Click to expand...

I made me own distro block, cos the others are all very much overpriced for what they are. I screwed a cleaned up piece of steel plate to a block of wood, ensuring the screws didn' go all the way through. I then drilled the plate a bit, so it had a nice set of hole in it, then put wood screws through them, screwing the wire to them via a set of ring terminals. Whole thing cost me a pack of ring terminals and some wee wood screws, works just as well as a £10 distro block for a motor shop or equivalent.
 
Nah it won't, cos its inside the cab, in a nice wee plastic box, and i thought of that and coated the underside of the block of wood with plastic as well just in case, and spaced it off the plastic mounting box.
:)
I may only be a wee studenty but i did think of that
 
right another question for you lot :D

I have wired in the sidelight connection to my carling switches. 3 of them work as they should (main light on when sides on, small bar when in use. BUT my compressor switch has the small bar illuminated all the time! this should only come on when in use.

my theory is. the other switches are on the starter batt but the compressor is on the 2nd batt. the winch is too, but that has an isolator switch on it. could it be due to the constant live? i would have thought the switch would have stopped this? keys out, lights off and it stays lit.

any thoughts :( ive unplugged it for now incase i set fire to it overnight.

G
 
boydy1989 said:
unless it is wired up wrong!
Click to expand...

hope not :(

basically i stripped the croc clips off the compressor and soldered ring terminals on them, there was an inline fuse all ready in place. then i dismantled the switch and extended the wires via a 2core wire to the carling switch on the dash. the on/off works the compressor fine but i dont understand how that light stays on! will try the other switch tonight. it was dark when i finished last night. Its looking good though, will post pics of the illuminations when im done :p

G
 
Griffdowg said:
hope not :(

basically i stripped the croc clips off the compressor and soldered ring terminals on them, there was an inline fuse all ready in place. then i dismantled the switch and extended the wires via a 2core wire to the carling switch on the dash. the on/off works the compressor fine but i dont understand how that light stays on! will try the other switch tonight. it was dark when i finished last night. Its looking good though, will post pics of the illuminations when im done :p

G
Click to expand...

no
NO
NO!

not mains cable, Griffy?
Pleeeeeeeezzzzzzzze - not mains cable :(
cry.gif
 
No, not mains cable. i aint that daft! Its Auto stuff. I got a reel a while back, its something like 8.75a per cable and the 2 are insulated in a "bigger" outer. thought this would be easier/neater to run from batt to dash. cant see much current going through it as its only the switch side of the relay. the relay is still in the housing of the pump. all i have effectively done is remove the original switch and extend the 2 wires to a switch on the dash.

have i missed something :D ??

Cheers guys, really appreciate your help!

G
 
Griffdowg said:
No, not mains cable. i aint that daft! Its Auto stuff. I got a reel a while back, its something like 8.75a per cable and the 2 are insulated in a "bigger" outer. thought this would be easier/neater to run from batt to dash. cant see much current going through it as its only the switch side of the relay. the relay is still in the housing of the pump. all i have effectively done is remove the original switch and extend the 2 wires to a switch on the dash.

have i missed something :D ??

Cheers guys, really appreciate your help!

G
Click to expand...

If the switch light is staying on and its taking a direct feed from the battery. I'm assuming it's a 3 terminal switch Live in, Live out, and earth for the switch light. in which case it sound like the internals on the switch are faulty and it's permantly earthed or permanently live internally.
 
I dont think it could be perm live as the compressor would run wouldnt it? like i said the switch works as it should, its just the sidelight illumination thats the issue. the bar doesnt light up unless the earth is connected, then its perm on with compressor running or not. hopefully its the switch and MUDStuff will give me an exchange.

G
 
Yer i got that and its wired in correctly. just wasnt sure if i done something wrong, but i guess faulty switch is most likely. the other thing which just occured to me is...

I took the feed off the sidelight bulb to the original 12v fag socket. using a piggyback term. i wired in the others from there. i did test it with a multimeter and the V's only came through when sidelight was switched on. could it be because im using this piggyback on this switch? the others are all offshoots from this connection and work fine. sorry if you cant get your head around my wiring!

G
 
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