Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 diesel starting on 3 cylinders, now running properly, after cylinder head change.

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Well - when it comes to tools and kit - never a borrower or lender be - if you lend it comes back broke - if you borrow it breaks - you buy a replacement - give it back - and you still don't have one.

Been there done that a few times, Fil told me as a kid lend it once fine, twice ok, third time buy your own.
 
Well - when it comes to tools and kit - never a borrower or lender be - if you lend it comes back broke - if you borrow it breaks - you buy a replacement - give it back - and you still don't have one.

Been there, done that. I won't lend or borrow anything now. I've lost loads of tools over the years, including torque wrenches, spanners, pair of old style DIY ramps and a large floor jack, and probably loads more stuff that "walked" out of my tool cabinet, when I wasn't looking.:mad:
 
Ever so slightly back on topic.

The FL2 engine starts up ok, after a few seconds of cranking. However it's definitely running on 3 cylinders, until its warmed up.
So I reckon it's an injector not playing ball, which is odd, because they look like they've been reconditioned.

I can't identify which one it is electronically, as it appears the PTM used on this engine doesn't record PID information or codes. :confused:
So I'm left with simple substitution as a means of identification. I suppose I could unplug each injector in turn, until I find the one with the fault, but this carries an element of risk to the injector driver circuit.
So that leaves substitution as a primary way to identify the duff one.

My thought is to change the injector, that was in the cylinder with the issue first. This injector could have been damaged by numerous hits by the nut, as it bounced about in the combustion chamber. The injector pintle is pretty sturdy, but I'm thinking that maybe the impacts have jarred something inside, causing it to stick.

Any other thoughts or ideas on this are most welcome.
 
I know the exhaust manifold is not easy to access, but if you could put a cheap infra red temperature sensor on each leg of the manifold just after starting one of them should be cooler than the others, and that should be the one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Digit...368776?hash=item56e02f1288:g:2FAAAOSwADZfaaVP

Thats not a bad idea, although getting to the exhaust manifold is virtually impossible.

I was thinking of using my old school stethoscope on each injector in turn, as I'm sure I should be able to hear them ticking, except the non functional one. The driver stack is obviously ok, as it's not returning an open or to ground injector code. So presumably its a mechanical issue in the injector.
 
She runs!!!:D:D:D
View attachment 219554
It was a little lumpy at first, but after it ran for a while, it seems to run pretty well, better than I was expecting. :)

I'll see how it goes over the next few months, and add anything significant here.

Hi John.
I have just caught up with your rebuild :cool: great to hear she is running, how did you get on with bleeding the fuel system using the tool attached in the photo, i should imagine you were over joyed when she burst into life, the swirl manifold i have gutted needs to be fitted yet on mine, also i have got all my fluids to do before the end off October, are you going to deal with your Haldex filter etc.

Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and adding the photos at the same time, which does make the job a little longer:D
 
I have just caught up with your rebuild :cool: great to hear she is running, how did you get on with bleeding the fuel system using the tool attached in the photo,
I've done a short video clip of it running too. ;)
I've recorded several hours of video of me doing lots of work on this engine, which I'm planning on editing and uploading when time allows.
i should imagine you were over joyed when she burst into life
Yes I was pretty happy. It took 3 attempts for it to fire, but this was good, as it meant the oil pressure light extinguished before it fired. It actually fired almost immediately after the oil light went out, so maybe the PTM delays the start until there is oil pressure is up?

Unfortunately it started on 3 cylinders, it did improve as it warmed up. I know the replacement piston will take a while to be at full power, but the misfire when cold which I suspect an injector.
the swirl manifold i have gutted needs to be fitted yet on mine,
I think the flaps failing is going to be an increasingly common problem.
also i have got all my fluids to do before the end off October,
I'm going to do mine too. I've just been through the various specs, so I can find equivalents to the silly price LR stuff.
The other annoying thing is the lack of drain plugs, requiring all the fluids be sucked out.

are you going to deal with your Haldex filter etc.
Yes I'm going to do the Haldex fluid and filter too, again once I've found a sensible price for the stuff I need.
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and adding the photos at the same time, which does make the job a little longer
No problem. It's good to get this information out there, so owners can feel more confident about doing there own work. It does take more time, but it's worth it for the greater good.
 
Hi John.
It was only the other day that i was looking for the fuel filter i purchased for the FL2 & could i find it :mad: so i i thought i may as well get another one, got this for £25 including P&P. which arrived today.
g06PicHl.jpg
1

Great i thought i can sort that out the weekend along with the swirl manifold, which i had put in a box with some of the FL1 manifolds, guess what else was in that box :oops:
HlHxUQMl.jpg
2
So now i have a spare for when it needs doing in the future.
5apwv4Rl.jpg
3

I also have the Haldex fluid and filter from this link below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-Fo...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
Ever so slightly back on topic.

The FL2 engine starts up ok, after a few seconds of cranking. However it's definitely running on 3 cylinders, until its warmed up.
So I reckon it's an injector not playing ball, which is odd, because they look like they've been reconditioned.

I can't identify which one it is electronically, as it appears the PTM used on this engine doesn't record PID information or codes. :confused:
So I'm left with simple substitution as a means of identification. I suppose I could unplug each injector in turn, until I find the one with the fault, but this carries an element of risk to the injector driver circuit.
So that leaves substitution as a primary way to identify the duff one.

My thought is to change the injector, that was in the cylinder with the issue first. This injector could have been damaged by numerous hits by the nut, as it bounced about in the combustion chamber. The injector pintle is pretty sturdy, but I'm thinking that maybe the impacts have jarred something inside, causing it to stick.

Any other thoughts or ideas on this are most welcome.


Laset temp gun aimed at the ex maniifold or cyl head?
 
Hi John.
It was only the other day that i was looking for the fuel filter i purchased for the FL2 & could i find it :mad: so i i thought i may as well get another one, got this for £25 including P&P. which arrived today.
g06PicHl.jpg
1

Great i thought i can sort that out the weekend along with the swirl manifold, which i had put in a box with some of the FL1 manifolds, guess what else was in that box :oops:
HlHxUQMl.jpg
2
So now i have a spare for when it needs doing in the future.
5apwv4Rl.jpg
That kind of thing happens to me quite alot.
 
how did you get on with bleeding the fuel system using the tool attached in the photo

The tool was simple to use Arctic. Its actually very reminiscent of the primer bulbs that used to be fitted to lots of old school Peugeot/Citroėn diesels, before electric lift pumps were used.
I've actually considered splicing such a bulb into the fuel supply line permanently, just to make fuel system bleeding easier.
 
It was only the other day that i was looking for the fuel filter i purchased for the FL2 & could i find it :mad: so i i thought i may as well get another one, got this for £25 including P&P. which arrived today.
g06PicHl.jpg
1

Great i thought i can sort that out the weekend along with the swirl manifold, which i had put in a box with some of the FL1 manifolds, guess what else was in that box :oops:
That looks like an OE filler Arctic2. Do you have a link?
That's a good price, saved to my watch list. ;)
Laset temp gun aimed at the ex maniifold or cyl head?
The manifold is almost impossible to access, as it's under a heat shield, which is below the EGR cooler assembly.
At the individual manifold branches, it is probably best before the whole manifold gets hot, but the cylinder which is not firing should be cooler.
If only it were easy to access it.
That kind of thing happens to me quite alot.
And me. I lost the copper injector seals, 2 days after I'd received them, only to find them again, after I'd put the injectors back in using the old seals. :(
I have one of this type and the extension rods are really handy.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht171-mechanics-stethoscope/
That's what I've used for decades. ;)
 
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That looks like an OE filler Arctic2. Do you have a link?
Hi John.
It was a single Filter someone was selling when i searched, made him offer of £20 which was accepted but also had to pay postage,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I did see these but could not read the photo correctly, then read These are OEM spec filters and the same ones that would be supplied by many garages? in the listing asked a question but got no answer back so went with the one i have.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...010719&hash=item1cefeadf05:g:sUcAAOSwD-FfM4QS
Then i read his only one bad feedback
https://www.ebay.co.uk/fdbk/feedbac...age:RECEIVED_AS_SELLER&_trksid=p2047675.l2560

But these look to be the genuine filter.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-...010719&hash=item1f16b25319:g:SEMAAOSwi~dfZ4Sn
 
@Arctic2
A genuine / OEapparently has the word PurFlex on the top. My filter was a cheap unknown, apparently of German origin, so I'll see how that works.
20200925_141247.jpg
20200925_141315.jpg
Apparently some cheap filters cause power loss when hot, so I'll see how it goes. If I have to replace it then I'll swap it for an OE part.

Off topic.
Do you have an IID? I've picked one up recently, but I'm pretty disappointed that the programming options for the FL2 are really limited by comparison to the programming options for the D3 I had. :(
 
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