1987 Def Stub Axles

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v8250

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Dear All, a call to your collective knowledge...have removed front and rear hubs and stub axles as part of rebuild. The stub axles are worn with three caps full of diff oil...well at least it's all lubricated. The rears worse than the fronts, I have new seal and bearing sets ready to fit.

OEM [unknown manufacturer] units at ~£45-55 a corner.

Q? what are Bearmach/Britpart £30 stub axles like, do they last? Or should I always be buying the supposed OEM units?

https://www.paddockspares.com/frc8540-rear-stub-axle-oem.html
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEFENDER...093772?hash=item3cce5ac84c:g:0ZUAAOSwOyJas47c
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FRC8540P1
 
After fitting a new pair of Britpart front wheel bearings on my Disco 1 two years on the trot for the MOT on a car that is only used for playing off road at shows and only did about three thousand miles each year, i've stopped using Britpart ANYTHING!
 
@yfo866, I've made sure that the baring and seal kits are Timkin...my trick here is to only order G grade parts and even Britpart do G grade kits
I've never heard of G grade. What is it? The last set to be fitted were Timkin.
I have heard mates refer to Britpart as Sh*tpart before now and some stopped using them years ago. Up until the bearings i've used them, but not any more.
 
I've never heard of G grade. What is it? The last set to be fitted were Timkin.
I have heard mates refer to Britpart as Sh*tpart before now and some stopped using them years ago. Up until the bearings i've used them, but not any more.
g is what britpart put after the part number to denote its a genuine part
 
As James above, G grade = genuine part. If you've hammered your Timkin bearings in such short a period there's something amiss; Timkin [+GKN +Glacier] bearings are very hard wearing.

Anyway, back on topic...anyone know the correct part numbers as per original post?
 
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