Steep learning curve

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dieseldog69 said:
With the amended schedule of works i "should" have 90% of mine wrapped up this weekend.

Won't be MOT ready as calipers to replace i fear as well as flex check to see about bodywork trimming to clear my new boots :)
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Good work. I should think I'm about 50%. When near to getting into engine and front end I'll stockpile loads of parts. Likely I'll do th when I do belt. I'm not going to deck the back out until I have done some tip runs. I'll steel baton then ply it and use it as my house much away vehicle lol. Its a nice feeling building bits up with new parts
 
Have got a fair bit done this weekend. Bump stop bracket replaced, outrigger and mount on and axle in place. Found another ****ing hole too.
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resto_d1 said:
I won't be using corroless again. Bilt hamber epoxy is so much tougher. Yeah there's a lot of extra steel. The outrigger is on a 3mm backing plate lol
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I'm just priming everything with the Bonda for now and seam sealing before I mix up that epoxy, think it is going to be amazing when it goes on but I am planning to Dinitrol pretty much immediately once everything is done.
 
I did the same on left hand but right hand and axle were bonda then corroless. Corroless just doesn't seem to go on bonda very well or I'm doing it wrong. When I did epoxy on bonda you could slide a screwdriver a long it and it wouldn't break the surface. Corroless does dry hard but the lack of flex in my opinion deems it lesser than bh. Comes is near enough same colour too lol
 
resto_d1 said:
My wax will go in once the welder goes away I think. I got 2 massive cans but wouldn't be surprised if I need 2 more
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I got a few bitumen underseal cans to spray on under the wheel tubs and the high impact areas to resist the stones and debris being thrown up by the wheels, there are loads of schools of thought with the bitumen based stuff but I am of the opinion that the thinners based solvent used to apply the Dinitrol every year or so will melt the bitumen and keep it pliable, I've always found the problem to be the underseal dries out, cracks and water gets in behind it and starts to create the corrosion that results in numerous hours welding it all up.

What you planning for impact protection in the wheel tubs and front arches?
 
That's the issue with it yes but it will be fine ontop of that epoxy mate. You'll see what I mean- it's sh1t hot.

I'll put the page on tomorrow with link to a classic car site but I will be making arch guards via heat gun and plastic. Likely a big cone washing bucket lol. They will extend to cover my new mounts
 
resto_d1 said:
That's the issue with it yes but it will be fine ontop of that epoxy mate. You'll see what I mean- it's sh1t hot.

I'll put the page on tomorrow with link to a classic car site but I will be making arch guards via heat gun and plastic. Likely a big cone washing bucket lol. They will extend to cover my new mounts
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Way back in the early days of my build I was playing with glass fibre matting and was really considering using stainless bar and wire to form the basis of the front wheel arches, wonder if it would be possible to mould glass fibre around the wheel tubs?
 
dieseldog69 said:
Way back in the early days of my build I was playing with glass fibre matting and was really considering using stainless bar and wire to form the basis of the front wheel arches, wonder if it would be possible to mould glass fibre around the wheel tubs?[/QUOTE

I'm going to make arch liners from pizza boxes then cut from 2mm abs sheet. Then going to put a edge seal on each side and tuck the edge under the rear quarter lip. That'll stop the sh1t flying up inside the quarters. I've not even looked at front yet. The page I have saved on my laptop is a awesome mate - he's done such a tidy job of it.
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@dieseldog69 here's the link for mud guards.

And here's what I've done with my morning lol. Only rough but Im liking it. I think I'd put a divider in the low height draw then a hatch in its roof so you can access it whilst in 'sofa mode'. The foot ends would flap up on hinges and paracord to the passenger seat. matress is made up of 5 pieces. 2 live on it, one goes in the drew below and the footboard ones can go wherever.
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resto_d1 said:
@dieseldog69 here's the link for mud guards.

And here's what I've done with my morning lol. Only rough but Im liking it. I think I'd put a divider in the low height draw then a hatch in its roof so you can access it whilst in 'sofa mode'. The foot ends would flap up on hinges and paracord to the passenger seat. matress is made up of 5 pieces. 2 live on it, one goes in the drew below and the footboard ones can go wherever.
View attachment 170293 View attachment 170294 View attachment 170302
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Were you inspired by that video I posted yesterday? ;)

Good work BTW, I have a great imagination but little time to actually model it out in a CAD program :oops:
 
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