Brake lights and ignition on without key

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Qasimahmed

Member
Posts
39
Location
Birmingham
Hiya
So my 2004 TD6 has been stood for about 5 days due to waiting for a part to arrive, it was started up during these days for about 15 minutes each time. I parked the car up after a short drive and the brake lights stayed on after taking the key out of the ignition. I messed around with it and somehow it went off, two minutes later the alarm goes off. Unlock it and lock it again, no brake lights on.
Got a call from my neighbor saying that I've left the lights on, went to the car and the brakes lights are on, opened the door and the Speedo is lit up as if the ignition is on and the all the hevac lights are on. The car just about started, I don't know how long the lights were on for.
The battery was changed for a new Varta battery two weeks ago, I'm just running the car for about 20 minutes to allow it to charge a bit.
Any ideas? I've read about the LCM having some condensation within or cleaning the ignition switch terminals.
What do you guys think?

Edit: brakes lights function as normal when car is started
 
Hiya
So my 2004 TD6 has been stood for about 5 days due to waiting for a part to arrive, it was started up during these days for about 15 minutes each time. I parked the car up after a short drive and the brake lights stayed on after taking the key out of the ignition. I messed around with it and somehow it went off, two minutes later the alarm goes off. Unlock it and lock it again, no brake lights on.
Got a call from my neighbor saying that I've left the lights on, went to the car and the brakes lights are on, opened the door and the Speedo is lit up as if the ignition is on and the all the hevac lights are on. The car just about started, I don't know how long the lights were on for.
The battery was changed for a new Varta battery two weeks ago, I'm just running the car for about 20 minutes to allow it to charge a bit.
Any ideas? I've read about the LCM having some condensation within or cleaning the ignition switch terminals.
What do you guys think?

Edit: brakes lights function as normal when car is started
Low battery voltage is a possibility, running it for 20 minutes will not recharge the battery fully. I have also had problems with Varta batteries. Check the voltage with a DVM before starting the car.
 
So I turned it on and off and it went off. While I was sitting there, the ignition turned on without the key in.
I removed the battery terminal and now I'm just wanting to see what you guys suggest
 
Ignition switch pack is a known failure point - I would strongly suggest checking yours.....

The lighting issue, could be caused by this too - at times, it will only let 9V through as a max and this will confuse the various ECUs giving odd behaviour - also if you switch it off, but the contacts are arcing across it will keep some systems live but with a reduced voltage/current - again causing odd behaviour - such as lights being on when they are switched off, etc etc....

Chief suspect is your ignition switch pack under the ignition barrel.
 
Ignition switch pack is a known failure point - I would strongly suggest checking yours.....

The lighting issue, could be caused by this too - at times, it will only let 9V through as a max and this will confuse the various ECUs giving odd behaviour - also if you switch it off, but the contacts are arcing across it will keep some systems live but with a reduced voltage/current - again causing odd behaviour - such as lights being on when they are switched off, etc etc....

Chief suspect is your ignition switch pack under the ignition barrel.
I'll get it disassembled tomorrow morning and let you guys know how I get on
 
Ignition switch pack is a known failure point - I would strongly suggest checking yours.....

The lighting issue, could be caused by this too - at times, it will only let 9V through as a max and this will confuse the various ECUs giving odd behaviour - also if you switch it off, but the contacts are arcing across it will keep some systems live but with a reduced voltage/current - again causing odd behaviour - such as lights being on when they are switched off, etc etc....

Chief suspect is your ignition switch pack under the ignition barrel.
Is there any way of checking that it's faulty, I was planning on removing it and then cleaning the connector with contact cleaner.
 
So took it apart, cleaned both sides of the connector and the problem is still there, I'll attach a video, let me know what you think.
The first one, I turned the ignition on and then off and removed the key, the following cycles are happening randomly. the steering column is moving forward a little every time the ignition is turned on.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/eZHdLgc7GQbdSwRK6

I've ordered a new ignition switch anyway, it was around 20 quid for a new BMW switch pack so we'll see how that goes, it'll probably be here on the weekend.
 
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I'm surprised Ant didn't say it but new battery and the issues start? Which trim is the vehicle and what size battery did you put in?
As for the wouldn't switch off , have you checked the crankcase breather filter.
Other than that, its above my pay grade.
 
So took it apart, cleaned both sides of the connector and the problem is still there, I'll attach a video, let me know what you think.
The first one, I turned the ignition on and then off and removed the key, the following cycles are happening randomly. the steering column is moving forward a little every time the ignition is turned on.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/eZHdLgc7GQbdSwRK6

I've ordered a new ignition switch anyway, it was around 20 quid for a new BMW switch pack so we'll see how that goes, it'll probably be here on the weekend.

It's supposed to. The steering moves in when you switch off and goes back to the memory setting off the last user, when ignition switched on.


P.s What on earth are those horrible dials from?
 
It's supposed to. The steering moves in when you switch off and goes back to the memory setting off the last user, when ignition switched on.


P.s What on earth are those horrible dials from?

They were there when I bought the car, it has been customised a lot. Full respray in Audi Merin purple, custom cream seats with black quilted inserts with purple stitching, the purple stitching continues on the door armrests. Full 2012 conversion with 22" wheels and front brembo conversion, now I've put 18" winter wheels on.

It's a 2004 TD6, the battery was a Varta 100ah 830A as shown on the picture. It's been about 2 or 3 weeks since the battery change, all was good until it was parked up for around 5 days. The old battery was very weak, the charging system is fine. They checked it with a battery diagnostic machine.
 

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They were there when I bought the car, it has been customised a lot. Full respray in Audi Merin purple, custom cream seats with black quilted inserts with purple stitching, the purple stitching continues on the door armrests. Full 2012 conversion with 22" wheels and front brembo conversion, now I've put 18" winter wheels on.

It's a 2004 TD6, the battery was a Varta 100ah 830A as shown on the picture. It's been about 2 or 3 weeks since the battery change, all was good until it was parked up for around 5 days. The old battery was very weak, the charging system is fine. They checked it with a battery diagnostic machine.
I would say that battery is on the small side, 950CCA I regard as a minimum.
 
They were there when I bought the car, it has been customised a lot. Full respray in Audi Merin purple, custom cream seats with black quilted inserts with purple stitching, the purple stitching continues on the door armrests. Full 2012 conversion with 22" wheels and front brembo conversion, now I've put 18" winter wheels on.
Well I guess you must like it :rolleyes: Sounds underpigeon to me.:D

It's a 2004 TD6, the battery was a Varta 100ah 830A as shown on the picture.
I say again , which trim is it?
It's been about 2 or 3 weeks since the battery change, all was good until it was parked up for around 5 days. The old battery was very weak, the charging system is fine. They checked it with a battery diagnostic machine.
 
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In which case the battery you have is as much use as a chocolate fire guard

You need minimum 920 CCA and 110Ah

It's the same spec as the battery that was in there before, and there were no issues then. I just replaced it for what was already there, I didnt have any reason to think it was the wrong size.
 
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