davidhenesy
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Is there an override for this problem? I hear a faint click in the tailgate when I push the unlock button, but not the robust click that opens the rear window.
Disco 4 tailgate stuck
- Thread starter davidhenesy
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MGBGTV8
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landyfrance
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I know this is an old thread but I don't want to start a new one on the same subject. I have a Disco 4 and the tailgate won't open when the top release button is pushed. There is a faint click from the button but nothing happens. The internet is full of fixes and videos on how to solve this for Disco 3 and before but I can't find anything for Disco 4.
On the 4, the door open/close is a rocker button rather than two separate ones so the 'push together' fix won't work.
I'd appreciate any assistance.
On the 4, the door open/close is a rocker button rather than two separate ones so the 'push together' fix won't work.
I'd appreciate any assistance.
hi
hope it’s not a daft question but have u checked the fuses first and assume ur not complaining about not being able to open the boot with the engine running
landyfrance
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gstuart
No, it's not the fuses and while I haven't been trying to do so to solve this problem, it's quite possible to open the tailgate with the engine running - but not when it is in gear.
No, it's not the fuses and while I haven't been trying to do so to solve this problem, it's quite possible to open the tailgate with the engine running - but not when it is in gear.
Have you checked your battery, D3/4 eat their batteries and like a nice new one every now and then, weirdly the removed battery will go on another normal car and work just fine with no issues.
I think the guts of the D3/4 tailgate are the same and the weak actuator is the most common.
Theres a good thread on the D3 forum where a guy had added a smart manual release handle on the inside of the lower tailgate so in the event of actuator failure he can still open it.
I think the guts of the D3/4 tailgate are the same and the weak actuator is the most common.
Theres a good thread on the D3 forum where a guy had added a smart manual release handle on the inside of the lower tailgate so in the event of actuator failure he can still open it.
hi, plus 1 what lynall has said
think u have to have it in park or neutral with the handbrake on for the boot to open with the engine is running, but plse don’t quote me 100% on the D4
Last edited:
landyfrance
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Thanks for your replies.
Battery is OK and I agree, it's probably a weak actuator. I guess I was looking for a fix like on D3 which is to press both lock and unlock on the dashboard which is not an option on D4. The manual release option video is interesting but on a five year old D4, a bit radical
gstuart, - for info, just out of any drive gear is OK to open tailgate. Electronic brake does not have to be applied.
I guess I'm going to have to take the expensive option and head to a dealer...
Battery is OK and I agree, it's probably a weak actuator. I guess I was looking for a fix like on D3 which is to press both lock and unlock on the dashboard which is not an option on D4. The manual release option video is interesting but on a five year old D4, a bit radical
gstuart, - for info, just out of any drive gear is OK to open tailgate. Electronic brake does not have to be applied.
I guess I'm going to have to take the expensive option and head to a dealer...
landyfrance
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I thought I would update this thread as I know a number of people are searching for solutions to this particular problem on Discovery 4's.
So, you have a Discovery 4 and the tailgate won't open. It will likely be one of three problems - or if you are really unlucky, all three.
It will be a problem caused by the door switch, the cable or the actuator.
Door switch - if this is the issue, when you press up on the switch, nothing happens. However, when you use the tailgate opener on the key fob, the door opens. Solution: replace the switch.
Cable - if this is the issue, when you press the switch or operate the key fob, there is 'clicking and whiring' but the door won't open, the cable is broken. This was a common problem with pre-Disco 4 cars because the cable was weaker. It was redesigned for the 4. Solution, replace the cable. See below.
Actuator - When you operate the switch or key fob, there is a weak 'whiring' sound which reduces to silence with further pushes. This is going to be the most likely cause of the problem and will likely have become progressively worse over time - in other words, the door will have previously opened but only after multiple attempts. As soon as that first happens, it's best to change the actuator because doing so with the door stuck closed is far harder than with it open.
If it is the actuator and you decide to fix it yourself, you will need part number FUG500010. This is the latest actuator. It is up to you if you wish to replace the cable at the same time. If you do, it is part number LR017470 - both parts I sourced from Land Rover Direct.
I won't attempt to explain here how to open the door or replace the parts as there are plenty of examples on Youtube. It's a bit fiddly but if I can do it, anyone can!
So, you have a Discovery 4 and the tailgate won't open. It will likely be one of three problems - or if you are really unlucky, all three.
It will be a problem caused by the door switch, the cable or the actuator.
Door switch - if this is the issue, when you press up on the switch, nothing happens. However, when you use the tailgate opener on the key fob, the door opens. Solution: replace the switch.
Cable - if this is the issue, when you press the switch or operate the key fob, there is 'clicking and whiring' but the door won't open, the cable is broken. This was a common problem with pre-Disco 4 cars because the cable was weaker. It was redesigned for the 4. Solution, replace the cable. See below.
Actuator - When you operate the switch or key fob, there is a weak 'whiring' sound which reduces to silence with further pushes. This is going to be the most likely cause of the problem and will likely have become progressively worse over time - in other words, the door will have previously opened but only after multiple attempts. As soon as that first happens, it's best to change the actuator because doing so with the door stuck closed is far harder than with it open.
If it is the actuator and you decide to fix it yourself, you will need part number FUG500010. This is the latest actuator. It is up to you if you wish to replace the cable at the same time. If you do, it is part number LR017470 - both parts I sourced from Land Rover Direct.
I won't attempt to explain here how to open the door or replace the parts as there are plenty of examples on Youtube. It's a bit fiddly but if I can do it, anyone can!
One further check you should make if the tailgate actuator seems to have failed.
My 2010 Discovery 4 had a tailgate which got sluggish to open, and often would not open fully on the first try. I assume the actuator was getting weak.... I continued to ignore it..... Until one day it wouldn't open at all. No sound from the actuator on pressing the outside handle or the key fob button.
I ordered and fitted a new actuator (after breaking into the lower tailgate to open the hatch) and replaced it. It still didn't work....
I got a code reader and read the fault codes on the Body Control Module. It reported B12EE (lift/tailgate release) and U1000 (Solid State Driver Protection). Deleting these error codes solved the problem and the new actuator works fine.
The Body Control Module had presumably detected an excessive current from the failing old actuator and therefore cut off the output assuming there was a short circuit. Without resetting this code the new actuator would never have worked.I suspect that resetting the code with the old actuator may have allowed me to open the hatch one last time with the failing old actuator which would have made getting the internal panel off the tailgate much easier - but I will never know....
My 2010 Discovery 4 had a tailgate which got sluggish to open, and often would not open fully on the first try. I assume the actuator was getting weak.... I continued to ignore it..... Until one day it wouldn't open at all. No sound from the actuator on pressing the outside handle or the key fob button.
I ordered and fitted a new actuator (after breaking into the lower tailgate to open the hatch) and replaced it. It still didn't work....
I got a code reader and read the fault codes on the Body Control Module. It reported B12EE (lift/tailgate release) and U1000 (Solid State Driver Protection). Deleting these error codes solved the problem and the new actuator works fine.
The Body Control Module had presumably detected an excessive current from the failing old actuator and therefore cut off the output assuming there was a short circuit. Without resetting this code the new actuator would never have worked.I suspect that resetting the code with the old actuator may have allowed me to open the hatch one last time with the failing old actuator which would have made getting the internal panel off the tailgate much easier - but I will never know....
