Hi I have the dreaded 1.8 Kseries Freelander, every few days I will notice the temp gauge is on full red, However when I turn it off and on again it, It instantly returns to half way normal, Any ideas of the problem?? Faulty thermostat comes to mind. Any help thanked in advance
K series overheating please help
- Thread starter dan101
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Should have bought a td4!
It has been discussed as nauseam.
I suggest yu get ready to replace head gasket, oil rail and check liners.
Do not use any proprietary stop leak products.
Oh - and have a read on here of the multiple threads.
Check water level and the coolant bottle for cracking.
It has been discussed as nauseam.
I suggest yu get ready to replace head gasket, oil rail and check liners.
Do not use any proprietary stop leak products.
Oh - and have a read on here of the multiple threads.
Check water level and the coolant bottle for cracking.
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Are you and your family safe?
Is the vehicle parked up safe and secure?
Is the vehicle parked up safe and secure?
Nodge68
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It could be a multitude of problems. But it sounds like an air lock problem. Has the coolant run low? Cracks around the header tank cap will cause pressure loss and coolant loss. Both are bad for the K series, as the HG won't tolerate low coolant, even for a second. It's not unknown for a new HG to fail, while bleeding the cooling system after a rebuild, if the wrong procedure is used.
Now you mention it i have noticed a water spot every now and again behind the drivers side front wheel. I top it up every few months id say
A new header tank is only £13 on Ebay, so im going to start with that as there several cracks on it, If someone could run through the correct procedure i'd be very grateful or link me up if it's already been explained on here as I can't find one. Thanks guys 
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Download Rave. You will need it.
Alibro
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The water pump is a common cause of leaks so would be a good place to start. When was it (and the cam belt) last replaced?
htr
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All the above comments and advice is good. But from what you initially wrote I thought you could have a faulty Temp gauge of a faulty temp sensor. Key question is are you continually loosing coolant and having to top up?
A cracked coolant bottle will allow coolant to escape and it's a low cost to replace this - you won't have to drain the system to replace that bottle.
Coolant on the ground by the driver's front wheel could indeed be the bottle or the coolant pump. Have a careful look below the bottle and around the crank pulley for coolant staining. You could also check under the inlet manifold gasket
The cambelt was changed at 76,000 and it's on 106,000, I'm thinking temp sensors maybe as well, for the reason that when it does overheat simply turning the key on and off resolves the problem
GrumpyGel
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Turning the ignition/engine off and on is unlikely to change anything with a temp sensor, or even the thermostat. They are not mechanical as such that the power going off could reset. I suppose the stat might be affected by coolant circulation stopping, but unlikely I think.
I think it unlikely that it would be the gauge either if the symptoms are so regular.
I would have thought it more likely to be an air blockage in the system. That could possibly clear when the coolant settles and then returns when the conditions are 'right' with the engine running.
However, do the cooling fans come on? The engine ECU uses a different temp sensor to the temp gauge on the dash. They are though (I believe) located next to each other so would be picking up the temp from the same area of coolant. If the coolant really was that hot, the ECU would also detect it and turn on the fans. This of course assumes the ECU temp sensor is working correctly and they do have a tendency to fail!
If it was my car though, I'd change the expansion bottle and get the bottle cap pressure tested, then I'd double and tripple check as good as you can that all the air is bled from the cooling system.
As the man of hats has said, I'd also be getting ready to have to change the HG.
I think it unlikely that it would be the gauge either if the symptoms are so regular.
I would have thought it more likely to be an air blockage in the system. That could possibly clear when the coolant settles and then returns when the conditions are 'right' with the engine running.
However, do the cooling fans come on? The engine ECU uses a different temp sensor to the temp gauge on the dash. They are though (I believe) located next to each other so would be picking up the temp from the same area of coolant. If the coolant really was that hot, the ECU would also detect it and turn on the fans. This of course assumes the ECU temp sensor is working correctly and they do have a tendency to fail!
If it was my car though, I'd change the expansion bottle and get the bottle cap pressure tested, then I'd double and tripple check as good as you can that all the air is bled from the cooling system.
As the man of hats has said, I'd also be getting ready to have to change the HG.
Nodge68
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Is the cooling fan running, when the gauge shows hot?
Yes the fan kicks in, that's how i notice it's overheating most times ( or it thinks it is). Then I turn the key off and on then it goes back to half way. It never goes just above either it's either like the normal halfway or straight to the max red lighting. Like I said I had it pressure tested and my mechanic said it was fine. I was warned about these K series, But I didn't listen. It's one thing after another with this beast.
GrumpyGel
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Your engine is definitely overheating then - its not a sensor issue.
Nodge68
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Unless the sensor is going open circuit when hot. The ECU will put the fans on and signal a high temperature warning to the Ipack, if the sensor circuit is outside specification.
So the fault could well be electrical. Check for corrosion on the temp sensor terminals.
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How many times have we heard that?
Nodge68
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Lots is just scaremongering. The K does have issues, but a few simple checks will keep most at bay. Check coolant weekly as it won't tolerate low coolant. Otherwise just drive it until problems surface
Do check for corrosion on the coolant temp sensor though.
MollyNomad
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Most 'horror stories regards the 'K' Series are just that...usually recounted by people who have no mechanical 'nonce'.
My sister for instance, went through two cylinder head gaskets(and a skim) despite 'checking the coolant religously'.
It would have helped if she had replaced the expansion/header tank cap on one occassion.........
My sister for instance, went through two cylinder head gaskets(and a skim) despite 'checking the coolant religously'.
It would have helped if she had replaced the expansion/header tank cap on one occassion.........
