Ball joint / steering box questions

[Lenfo]

I have a 25 year old 90 which I think could do with its steering ball-joints changing. I see on Paddock's they do left- and right-hand threaded track-rod ends. Is my assumption that I need one of each correct?

Is the 'cross-rod' balljoint at the wheel end (not the drop-arm end) the same as those used for the track rod? If so is it left- or right-handed?

I can move my steering-wheel about three inches measured at the rim before anything turns. I've narrowed the movement down to the power-steering box where the shaft disappears into it. Should adjusting the hex-headed screw within the lock-nut on top of the PAS box sort this out, or do I need a new PAS box? How far dare I adjust it without something popping out? When they refer to three or four bolt, do they mean the bolts on the top of the box surrounding the adjuster hex-screw?

Rather long-winded for a first post but hey!!

regards

Phil.

 

[divethedeep]

I have the same problem with steering and bought a re con box from paddock, the box has been changed 3 times and we still have the same problemb, ie free play on shaft into box

 

[The Mad Hat Man]

I adjusted the play out of mine - no probs - it was a series box tho - but go fur that before a new box. It mite even be worth checking on a new box too.

morning Griffy

 

[Griffdowg]

check the universal joints on the shaft between the wheel and the box.

it should be 1 left and 1 right thread on the track rod but i suggest you buy 2 of each to be sure. they always come in handy! and then you can use a 3rd for the other joint (cross rod?) replacement.

put the landy on axle stands and back off that loack nut. adjust the screw inward till its tight then back it off a little. try the steering wheel checking for tight spots throughout the range. when its god, do up the lock nut.

as for bolts, i believe its reffering to how many bolts are holding it on to the chassis leg.

any more for any more?

G

 

[Griffdowg]

morning daft. too early for me...

 

[The Mad Hat Man]

me too - think it must be coffee time?

 

[Griffdowg]

yer, put the kettle on

 

[Lenfo]

Thanks for all the suggestions. It turns out I was barking up the wrong tree, it was the balljoint on the drop-arm that was at fault. This has been renewed and now the steering is infinitely better. In retrospect it makes sense that a tiny bit of movement in that balljoint translates to a large movement of the steering wheel due to all the gearing in the box itself.

Hope this helps someone else.

happy off-roading

Phil.

 

[Sean]

i'm assuming there's enough fluid in the system ?

 

[The Mad Hat Man]

yer, put the kettle on

its getting cold!

 

[Griffdowg]

its getting cold!

just misty here...

I just got rid of my bronco grizzly claws bloke picked them up earlier. hurrrah! i am free!

where's my coffee?

G

 

[The Mad Hat Man]

i ment ya coffee - ya Brissolian!

 

[Griffdowg]

ow did you put any suger in?

 

[The Mad Hat Man]

nope - yu can do that yoself - lazy bugger

 

[Griffdowg]

no thanks turkish, im sweet enough

 

[RAZ8550TDI]

did yer buy a repair kit the for ball joint that meets the arm on the steering box? bough one a while back but aint fitted it yet, doesnt tell me how to do it in RAVE either??? how did yer get on with it?

 

[divethedeep]

yes bought new ball joint but play is in box

 

[Sirus]

yes bought new ball joint but play is in box

Our little un prefers playing with the box off her stuff too

 

[RAZ8550TDI]

you got any tips for changing that ball joint??

 

[Sean]

you got any tips for changing that ball joint??

this might elp

Drop arm ball joint change insitu - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

and there's a shed load of other articles here, and some with pics fer thems that can't read

LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum -> Land Rover Technical Archive