Removing TD4 propshaft help please

[Stangat]

I'm trying to remove the propshaft from my son''s 55 TD4 as it's making loud noises from the back. Tyres, wheel bearings etc have been checked and are OK. The rear diff UJ on the propshaft has got lots of play and it looks as though the forward UJ has as well. For checking purposes to start with, I've started to drop the shaft so it temporarily will become a 2WD whilst I pinpoint the noises. But, I have a problem that you will probably all of heard of before. I've removed the six retaining bolts from the front end but I now can't get the propshaft off the IRD. Squirted lots of WD40 in the joint but it won't come off. The impression I got was that it should pull off easily but no. Anybody have any suggestions as how I will be able to get it off please, a bit stuck, literally, from now?
Thanks

 

[Nodge68]

Remove all 6 bolts then tap the joint sideways while rotating it. It will slowly ease out of the drive cup. If that doesn't work. Use a hammer and chisel to strike the joint rearward, working your way around the whole circumference. This will get it out, without too much damage. Don't pull on the shaft or the gaiter will split, requiring replacement.

 

[Stangat]

Smashing, thanks for the help, I'll get on with it first thing in the morning when it's light again.

Cheers

 

[Tony e]

Remove all 6 bolts then tap the joint sideways while rotating it. It will slowly ease out of the drive cup. If that doesn't work. Use a hammer and chisel to strike the joint rearward, working your way around the whole circumference. This will get it out, without too much damage. Don't pull on the shaft or the gaiter will split, requiring replacement.

If the bolts arnt offset dont forget to mark the flang to re align it, it has been balanced and will vibrate the car to death

 

[Nodge68]

If the bolts arnt offset dont forget to mark the flang to re align it, it has been balanced and will vibrate the car to death

There's no real need to mark the shaft or flange, but you can if you like. The shafts are balanced off the vehicle, so it's not important to refit them back in the same location.

 

[Tony e]

There's no real need to mark the shaft or flange, but you can if you like. The shafts are balanced off the vehicle, so it's not important to refit them back in the same location.

Are you sure, ive always done that after making that mistake many years ago

 

[GrumpyGel]

You don't need to worry about re aligning it on Freelander. Each prop is individually balanced.

 

[Stangat]

Thanks all, the WD40 from last night and then a few taps this morning. Hey presto it came free easily after that!
The TD4 is running fine now so the problem was obviously something in the propshaft assembly. The rear UJ is completely shot and also the rubber bearing hangers next to the VCU are also very floppy. There doesn't appear to be any oil leakage etc from the VCU so I will have to decide whether to replace that at the same time. 157K on the clock but no idea if anything has been changed before or not, I suspect not.

Cheers

 

[Nodge68]

I'd be swapping a VCU with that miles for a reconditioned unit from Bell Engineering. You might as well get them to supply some decent bearings at the same time
A VCU that has started to stiffen, will damage the IRD and rear diff. So it's wise to replace it, before expensive damage is done.

 

[Alibro]

Thanks all, the WD40 from last night and then a few taps this morning. Hey presto it came free easily after that!
The TD4 is running fine now so the problem was obviously something in the propshaft assembly. The rear UJ is completely shot and also the rubber bearing hangers next to the VCU are also very floppy. There doesn't appear to be any oil leakage etc from the VCU so I will have to decide whether to replace that at the same time. 157K on the clock but no idea if anything has been changed before or not, I suspect not.

Cheers

I think you need to read up on VCU's and why/how they fail and what to look for, I've never heard of one leaking.
Did you also check the rear diff supports? They are a common fault in Freelanders and can fail again very quickly if only the front support is replaced or cheap ebay parts were used or the VCU is overly stiff.

 

[Madmustang]

For not much more money you could have a new one if you have the budget
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/freelander-parts/fl-viscous-coupling.html

 

[GrumpyGel]

For not much more money you could have a new one if you have the budget
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/freelander-parts/fl-viscous-coupling.html

wow, they look to be getting cheaper by quite a bit.

 

[Nodge68]

wow, they look to be getting cheaper by quite a bit.

See how they suggest testing it?

 

[GrumpyGel]

See how they suggest testing it?

lol

 

[Alibro]

See how they suggest testing it?

Don't they mean reverse in a tight circle?????

Meaningless, stupid, idiotic, illogical, absurd, ridiculous, futile, nonsensical, pointless waste of time!

 

[Nodge68]

Don't they mean reverse in a tight circle?????

Meaningless, stupid, idiotic, illogical, absurd, ridiculous, futile, nonsensical, pointless waste of time!

Now where have I heard that before?