P38 Ball joints replacements

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wammers said:
Well it is open to debate at the moment. I cannot see that a very slight crack at time of test should be an instant fail. But some testers will be more pedantic than others. Some say that changes made on 1st Jan do not actually come into force until Ist April, so anything found should be an advisory and must be done before next test. But i have not seen that written in stone anywhere.
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You haven't got a clue! Just an opinion there doesn't count in an MOT situation - Is that what you're saying between your mismatch posting?
 
Well MOT done and passed and as I drove it out the test station yard the bloomin ABS light and warning came on and wont go off so I will order up a spare sensor from the Bay and tackle it at my leusire now.
The warning noise gets lost in the noise of the electric windows needing reset.. lol
All in all not a bad day with a new MOT in hand and only 250 down for it including a new tyre and MOT and ball joints and track rod end.
 
Druim said:
You haven't got a clue! Just an opinion there doesn't count in an MOT situation - Is that what you're saying between your mismatch posting?
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Well that is your opinion thankfully it does not mean much. There are lots of opinion situations doing MOTs, but i agree it has been deskilled and any prat can do one now. No mismatched posts i quoted the MOT test manual that i posted a link to. It had been updated but the requirements for section 2.2 were unchanged. I Emailed them and it has now been updated. But the requirements are still open to some interpretation as i see it.
 
kooky_guy said:
Buggr. Was told yesterday that my ball joints need replacing.

The garage also repeated the statement that bacause of new MOT rules, the torn boots will be a fail rather than an advisory.

Been quoted £170 a side. Does that sound reasonable? Sounds like it might be, going by this thread...

Or would it just be simpler to get yet another replacement axle?
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:behindsofa:

Funny you should say that......I happen to have a brand new P38 front axle assembly complete with the swivels and ball joints fitted. All set up by the factory. It is the bare axle, no diff's, shafts or hubs.

I bought it from a LR Independent about 3 years ago as it had been hidden in a corner of his stores for a few years and my idea was to just change the axle if ever the ball joint(s) went on my own P38.
As you may or may not know I am looking to sell my P38 as it's hardly getting any use and is stored in the workshop for approx. 10 months of the year.
Furthermore, we are looking at moving back to the UK to live in the near future and are bringing the P38 and pikey wagon over at the end of March for a while to have a look around for a suitable house and hopefully get sorted. Hopefully, I will sell the car when we are over (Better chance to sell a V8 in the UK than Ireland) after the MOT early April.

As you can imagine, it's too big to put in a Jiffy bag so it will either have to be bought over in the Caravan or the removal van when we move proper, hopefully mid-late April. Unless someone want's to arrange pick up from Ireland beforehand.

I have put a post in the "For Sale" section.

PM me if you are interested.:)
 
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Wammers, you are normally very helpful!
I’m not suggesting it’s an easy job but merely checking in with the people that know to confirm (or not) that the time estimate is accurate. I have been quoted half the time by another garage leaving me in doubt.
 
Dorset Ranger said:
Hey guys,


I have been quoted four hours a side to do my ball joints by a specialist who has the correct tool. Is it me or does this sound a little bit heavy?!
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Sounds ok, if there are no problems....
Will you be having the drag-link done and the steering checked ?
Just remember that the SPX Service Solutions special tool, which costs around £600GBP, will be needed to press the old ones out, as well as the new ones in !!!!
 
ball joint gaiters can be replaced with joint in place,4 hrs a side would be reasonable even with the correct tool ,some get round it by heating the yoke to near destruction , ive done a set on a disco today it took about hrs
 
Dorset Ranger said:
Wammers, you are normally very helpful!
I’m not suggesting it’s an easy job but merely checking in with the people that know to confirm (or not) that the time estimate is accurate. I have been quoted half the time by another garage leaving me in doubt.
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I think four hours a side is reasonable. It's not a difficult job on ramp with the gear. If the other garage can change top and bottom ball joints, fit a new oil seal and set the drive shaft height in two hours let them do it. If you bought all the tooling needed and did it your self it would take you a lot longer than four hours that is all i was saying.
 
Dippypud said:
You'd be replacing that often ... sorry mate ...
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No but i do have other uses for such a tool. If you can do the job yourself £66.00 is a lot better than eight hours labour plus parts. And i do have the swivel hub height adjusting tool. I made one. I do wish you would talk about things you know something about now and again.
 
Last edited:
Ok guys,

Ball joints replaced top and bottom both sides (OEM). Front pan head rod bushes (From Polly to OEM), steering bush (OEM), D bushes to anti roll bar (Orange Polly) and the problem is still there but reduced. Am going for a heavy duty steering damper next, what do you think? I can’t think what else could be causing the problem (will try track rods before fitting the damper)
 
Dorset Ranger said:
Ok guys,

Ball joints replaced top and bottom both sides (OEM). Front pan head rod bushes (From Polly to OEM), steering bush (OEM), D bushes to anti roll bar (Orange Polly) and the problem is still there but reduced. Am going for a heavy duty steering damper next, what do you think? I can’t think what else could be causing the problem (will try track rods before fitting the damper)
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What problem? Did I miss something?
 
Dorset Ranger said:
You did not! At 70 mph, tends to be a B road (pot hole, drain etc) I get violent shacking of the steering wheel and the car shakes laterally (much like a small dog with no tail does when trying to wag!)
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Try sticking to the speed limit things may improve. :D:D
 
wammers said:
Try sticking to the speed limit things may improve. :D:D
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It should do well over 70mph with no issues!

What are the tyres like? Try pumping them up further to something silly like 38 psi all round and see if that helps. OEM steering damper is good: heavy duty shouldn't be required. Is all the alignment good. Brake calipers and discs good?
 
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