Which 1.8 K Series Hoses fail?

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Alibro

Well-Known Member
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Location
Northern Ireland
Hi Guys
I recently bought a 1.8 K Series Freelander (2004 face lifted with 104,000 miles) and plan to carry out a full service before letting the missus drive it. The only assumption I am making is that the head gasket has probably already been replaced at this mileage so I don't intend to do it again. (not yet anyway)
I've ordered timing belt, tensioner, plugs, plug leads, oil, coolant and have a new water pump. The expansion tank has already replaced last week as it was shot.
My question is, which hoses are most likely to fail as I may as well change them while changing the coolant.

Cheers
Ali

BTW anyone know where the tail door curtesy light switch is? Mine isn't working and the window goes back up as soon as you release the handle. This means I need to hold the handle up when closing the door.
 
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just have a good look at the hoses and if in doubt change the intercooler hoses on the td4 are the ones that fail, not known so much on the petrol for the hoses to fail much but obviously with time they will. the switch if anything like the side door has the switch in the lock . and it maybe connected to the door lock that you have the window problem, hope this helps
 
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Thanks ted
Will take a good look at the hoses but hopefully someone might know which are most likely to fail as it can be hard to spot weaknesses.

Will take a look in the lock mechanism for the door fault.
 
I agree, hoses are or haven't shown up to be an issue. I replaced my top and bottom rad' hoses when I fitted the PRT assembly. I also replaced the heater hose from the head outlet to the heater inlet and the ones to the IRD cooler. The only other one is the heater outlet to the back of the block/original thermostat housing...
 
OK, I'll take a good look and if nothing obvious I'll maybe leave the hoses to another service.
Is there anything else I should be looking at or considering changing?
 
OK, I'll take a good look and if nothing obvious I'll maybe leave the hoses to another service.
Is there anything else I should be looking at or considering changing?

If you decide to take the head off perhaps consider fitting the strengthened bottom oil rail.

A liquid level sensor in the coolant bottle and a warning LED on/in your dash. Hippo has a thread on this. I did mine similar, just moved the sensor location a bit so as the LED comes on when the coolant level drops.

Fit an accurate temp gauge.

Not sure or the road reg's in GB but some LED daylight running lamps.

A matched set of tyres -including spare. Same brand, type, size and inflation.

Oil changes: diff, g'box & IRD.?
 
Thanks htr
If I have to do the head gasket I will order the full kit including bolts and bottom oil rail.
I'll have a look for the low coolant thread.
Accurate Temp gauge???? any links?
Tyres are all matched and new.
Done the IRD oil, still to do the diff and gearbox. Having said that the gearbox is very slick with no signs of stickiness so don't think it is urgent
 
Temp' gauge VDO is a respected brand - a mechanical Vs electrical may be more accurate.

Liquid level switch

Brilliant write up by Hippo, thanks for sharing.
Can't promise I will do it as I am a lazy bu@@er at best of times and the car will only do a small mileage but great to know there is a way to monitor the coolant level and temps.

Might do something like that for my F though. It's much funner to work on the the missus Freeby :)
 
Brilliant write up by Hippo, thanks for sharing.
Can't promise I will do it as I am a lazy bu@@er at best of times and the car will only do a small mileage but great to know there is a way to monitor the coolant level and temps.

Might do something like that for my F though. It's much funner to work on the the missus Freeby :)

I have a coolant level sensor in my F's header tank.
I prefer to work on the Freelander over the F though. Working on the F gives me back ache.
 
Working on the F gives me everything ache but when I'm blasting down a back road top down and the VVC k series buzzing behind me i just can't keep the smile off my face.
The Freelander has it for comfort and practicality but the F has it dor fun.
 
Working on the F gives me everything ache but when I'm blasting down a back road top down and the VVC k series buzzing behind me i just can't keep the smile off my face.
The Freelander has it for comfort and practicality but the F has it dor fun.

I must admit, I do love the VVC engine. It's such a free revving motor. I feel it would be better with the limiter coming in at 7500 RPM instead of the standard 7100 RPM. The engine would be able to use the VVC to better effect then.
It's a great engine though.
The F is easy to work on. It's just painful, although I can't blame the F for me getting older!
I always fancied fitting the KV6 into the F just for some fun. Sadly I'll never have the time.
 
At 104,000 miles you'll be looking at doing the headgasket again if you want peice of mind. IF it has already been done, it's probably been done around 50,000 to 80,000 miles. On the lower end of the scale your 'new' headgasket could have done 50,000 miles already.

Couldn't see if anyone else had answered this for you but no, the oil rail doesn't come with the head gasket set and it's pretty difficult to pick one up nowadays but it is definitely worth it.

As for hoses on the 1.8K... they can and do go, anyone who hasn't had at least one go has been lucky. I've had the bottom radiator hose split and also one of the hoses from the thermostat housing next to the dipstick.
 
At 104,000 miles you'll be looking at doing the headgasket again if you want peice of mind. IF it has already been done, it's probably been done around 50,000 to 80,000 miles. On the lower end of the scale your 'new' headgasket could have done 50,000 miles already.

Couldn't see if anyone else had answered this for you but no, the oil rail doesn't come with the head gasket set and it's pretty difficult to pick one up nowadays but it is definitely worth it.

As for hoses on the 1.8K... they can and do go, anyone who hasn't had at least one go has been lucky. I've had the bottom radiator hose split and also one of the hoses from the thermostat housing next to the dipstick.

As I would only be guessing when/if the HG has been replaced I'm not going to worry about it for now. I'll keep an eye on coolant levels and the oil and if I see signs of failure I'll sort it then. Life is to short to go around worring about what might happen. :) My MGF had mayo on the dipstick (after a couple of track days) so maybe I was lucky to spot it early but as long as the hoses, water pump and thermostat are ok I think most HGF's give early signs.
As for the hoses I will defo replace the lower radiator hose at least.
 
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