TD5 struggles to start

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tractorman

New Member
Posts
63
Location
Dover, Kent
Hi all - back after a long TD5 absence and its already testing my patience!

Bought her a couple of months back, and when i start it from cold i have to keep the key turned for about 5 secs with the throttle pedal right down, then she fires up at very low revs, with white smoke pouring out the back that stinks of diesel. This lasts about 20 secs. When she makes it to idling speed the throttle response is very poor and have to give it a boot to get it moving. Once started its absolutely fine, and starts straight away but after its been left about 2 or 3 hours the same happens.

It's been in the garage and so far had:
Injector harness
Injector seals
Glow plugs
ECU
Fuel filter
Air filter
MAF sensor
Crank sensor checked and all ok there, same with coolant temp sensor.

These have made no difference, but since these have been done after an upchange there isn't much power for a second or so.

If i do a fuel purge first thing in the morning it does the same, but starts to run fine a bit quicker.

So i want to pick some of your more experienced brains to see what you could recommend, as starting run out of money and patience!

Cheers, TM
 
Hi all - back after a long TD5 absence and its already testing my patience!

Bought her a couple of months back, and when i start it from cold i have to keep the key turned for about 5 secs with the throttle pedal right down, then she fires up at very low revs, with white smoke pouring out the back that stinks of diesel. This lasts about 20 secs. When she makes it to idling speed the throttle response is very poor and have to give it a boot to get it moving. Once started its absolutely fine, and starts straight away but after its been left about 2 or 3 hours the same happens.

It's been in the garage and so far had:
Injector harness
Injector seals
Glow plugs
ECU
Fuel filter
Air filter
MAF sensor
Crank sensor checked and all ok there, same with coolant temp sensor.

These have made no difference, but since these have been done after an upchange there isn't much power for a second or so.

If i do a fuel purge first thing in the morning it does the same, but starts to run fine a bit quicker.

So i want to pick some of your more experienced brains to see what you could recommend, as starting run out of money and patience!

Cheers, TM

This time of year it will struggle and chuck out white smoke for a bit.

Should start without touching the accelerator just keep the starter in until it catches/runs, let it tick over for a good fifteen seconds to let oil get round the turbo before giving it any welly.

I suspect the problem is the battery ;)
 
I would check your glow plugs are working.Change any duff ones,then
Ignition on,wait for glow plug light to go out, crank with feet off pedals
 
replace the air bleed valve( WJN500110) in the rear outer connection of the fuel filter housing then purge it again...and as said, crank it without touching the throttle
 
Thanks for the advice - sorry for delayed reply but been manic busy with work! Changed the FPR gasket and all seems fine there. Checked around ECU and found a couple of chafed wires, taped up but still no change. No oil in red plug, but the bottom of the box has a thin layer of oil on it.

Tried not using accelerator on start up, and it will start but the key has to be turned for about 10 seconds, and sometimes cuts out when its running rough but always starts again then runs fine. Solved the lack of power after a gearchange by disconnecting brand new MAF :confused:

Next step air bleed valve. Also when I picked it up it didnt have a fuel cap, so maybe a search for ****e in the fuel tank
 
It's had the injector washers etc done already, it's cost me a grand so far and no different :(

I've noticed now that when its running real rough just after start up the speedo goes up to about 50, then back down again. Beginning to think maybe electrical problem maybe, it's sending me round and round in bloody circles. Had a poke about today and one of the underseat relays had worked itself up, pushed it back in to no effect.

Its weird cos sometimes when i go out in it, it goes like **** off a stick, other times it drives like a normal defender. It's been remapped but cant really figure out why it does this

Anyone know any TD5 specialists in the South East?
 
It's had the injector washers etc done already, it's cost me a grand so far and no different :(

I've noticed now that when its running real rough just after start up the speedo goes up to about 50, then back down again. Beginning to think maybe electrical problem maybe, it's sending me round and round in bloody circles. Had a poke about today and one of the underseat relays had worked itself up, pushed it back in to no effect.

Its weird cos sometimes when i go out in it, it goes like **** off a stick, other times it drives like a normal defender. It's been remapped but cant really figure out why it does this

Anyone know any TD5 specialists in the South East?

Cracked head on boost at 50mph Ratty had, have you any other symptoms
 
Oil and water level stay the same, not mixing at all. The going fast/ going slow isn't during the same drive, say I drive from my house to the filling station it goes like hell, then when I start it up and leave the station it's back to normal, luck of the draw on start up
 
Oil and water level stay the same, not mixing at all. The going fast/ going slow isn't during the same drive, say I drive from my house to the filling station it goes like hell, then when I start it up and leave the station it's back to normal, luck of the draw on start up

looking at what you have had done the only thing left is the fuel pump, and the symptoms fit with it being the pump
 
Suggest you read my post... I had exactly the same problems...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f50/disco-2-td5-smoky-but-nice-old-bird-226794-2.html

If the head gasket has been changed before your ownership it could be the cam timing which will cause your symptoms, when cold the ECU further retards the injection timing making the problem worse. Of course it could be bent conrods as I discovered, if so suggest an electronic compression test as kindly suggested, I just decided to take the head off. Although I have yet to put it all back together I am confident that it will be the problem.
 
Cheers for the thoughts lads. EGR is blanked so can't be that. It's into the indy tomorrow to have the fuel pump looked at, as I just don't have the time to check it out myself. Will keep you posted on any developments in case someone else has the same problem sometime!
 
The going fast/ going slow isn't during the same drive, say I drive from my house to the filling station it goes like hell, then when I start it up and leave the station it's back to normal, luck of the draw on start up

Hope you get it sorted, as I'm having the same problem. It's 50/50 whether it starts running right or running like a dog on start up, the only difference is mine fires up immediately with no hassle at all...
 
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