05 Freelander TD4 loosing power when hot.

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higgins77

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26
Hi. I am from South Africa and joined the forum with the hope that someone can give some advice.

I have been struggling for months to fix a gremlin on the wife's Freelander TD4. When the engine is cool, it pulls well and drives like a dream but as soon as it seems to reach normal operating temperature (temperature gage in the middle), the car seems to loose power, especially on up hills.

I have also noticed that on a cool day the car will pull like it should with no problems. The problem only seems to be there on warmer days when the car is at operating temperature.

I took it to a local Landy specialist who replaced the boost solenoid. For about a week or so it seemed fine but then today the problem appeared again. Given that for the week it was fine, we had cooler rainy conditions as well. When it is down on power, the car still starts fine and idles fine. I just does not want to pull and it has to rev very high to get somewhere.

The EGR valve has been blocked off. I have also checked the MAF sensor, injectors ect. I am not sure what it could be. No error codes either.

Any advice?
 
The maf sensor incorporates a temp sensor I believe.

How did you check the maf sensor?

There is also a temp sensor on 2004on models in the inter cooler to manifold pipe. This could be at fault.
 
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air intake temp sensor
.. +1

and .. do you clean the intercooler now and again ? .. i.e. the outside ..
if it gets clogged up with dirt/sand/dust/dead insects etc etc ..
it won't cool the air very efficiently ..

hot air intake temp sensed .. will result in less go-g-juice being injected ..
( opposite for cold air .. )
 
When I unplug the MAF sensor, there is no difference in performance, the car just smokes a lot.

Today I took the time to remove the intercooler and the turbo pipes and cleaned it. There was a small amount of oil in the pipes and it looked like a small amount of gunk also came out of the inside of the intercooler when I cleaned it.

I also removed the pipe with the temp sensor. The sensor seamed like it had some of the oily gunk so I also cleaned that from the sensor.

Took the car for a test drive and it feels as if the car has got a little bit more go. Even when the temp reach the level where it usually looses power, the car still felt like it was pulling strong.

I will monitor it now for a couple of days, have got a 300km road trip on the cards for Sunday so I should know by then it cleaning the intercooler fixed the power loss problem. If the problem is still there after Sunday's trip, then I am at a loss as to what the cause could be.
 
The sensor seamed like it had some of the oily gunk so I also cleaned that from the sensor.

the small amount of oil inside the intercooler and it's hoses comes from the turbo ..
be normal .. nothing to worry about ..

ain't a bad idea .. when servicing the car .. to remove that short pipe with the air temp. sensor .. and give the sensor a clean .. .. i spray it with "gunk" .. then clean the 'gunk' off with a spray of isopropyl alcohol .. that cleans off the oily film ..
 
.. +1

and .. do you clean the intercooler now and again ? .. i.e. the outside ..
if it gets clogged up with dirt/sand/dust/dead insects etc etc ..
it won't cool the air very efficiently ..

hot air intake temp sensed .. will result in less go-g-juice being injected ..
( opposite for cold air .. )
+1 , has the intake manifold been cleaned when the egr blank mod was done ?
 
I do not think the intake manifold was cleaned when the EGR was blanked off as we are 2nd owners of the vehicle and it was done by the first owner. By the looks of how dirty the pipes were, I would guess not.
 
Ok. So did a 300km road trip with the Freelander today. On the open road the car was doing fine. Then, a few blocks from home, the car again lost power and back to a sort of "limp" mode. After I let it cool down for about 2 hours, the car was fine again.

I am now at a loss. The problem seems to be occurring when the engine is hot enough for the cooling fan to come on. The car does not overheat so there is no problem with overheating.

I am really now not sure where to look anymore.:(
 
Ok. So did a 300km road trip with the Freelander today. On the open road the car was doing fine. Then, a few blocks from home, the car again lost power and back to a sort of "limp" mode. After I let it cool down for about 2 hours, the car was fine again.

I am now at a loss. The problem seems to be occurring when the engine is hot enough for the cooling fan to come on. The car does not overheat so there is no problem with overheating.

I am really now not sure where to look anymore.:(
I don't know if the engine temperature sensor for the engine ECU is seperate from the gauge sensor as it is on the P38, but if it is, it could be a duff sensor giving a false reading.
 
So I had a diagnostic check done today on the Freelander. It came up with a P1e30 error :Boost System Performance, short circuit to V Batt, controller deviation.

From my lack of knowledge it sounds like an electrical fault.
The turbo boost actuator has been replaced so that should not be the problem.

Anyone knows what it actually means or had the same exact error?
 
Have you tried cleaning the Boost presure sensor in the intake manifold, mine was full of crap again and ive blocked of the EGR a while back.....I sprayed some Gunk cleaner in there and quickly blew it out...The car seems more responsive now.........or it could be all in my mind :crazy:

What I noticed on mine too was that one of the vaccum pipes that connects to the turbo solenoid is perished.....I wiggled it a bit and heard a hiss, it broke :doh: cut the end off and stuck it back on, but it will need replacing..........have you checked for perished pipes? They could be letting go intermittantly :boink:

My whole Vehicle seems to be perishing at the moment :violin:
 
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I have cleaned the boost pressure sensor. Checked all the pipes, none perished. Somewhere there seems to be something electrical that gets affected by heat and then caused the problem and the error code. I had the code cleared and check it again when I got home and the same code appeared again.

I have also disconnected the boost pressure sensor, but makes no difference.

I will take the car in to a diesel specialist on Tuesday. Hopefully they can get to the bottom of the problem. Gonna cost $$$. That's all I know.
 
sounds very similar to a fuel pump issue, what year is the motor what mileage ?
the temperature could affect the pump, ,
 
sounds very similar to a fuel pump issue, what year is the motor what mileage ?
the temperature could affect the pump, ,

Fuel pump could be the problem as I have heard that someone here with a similar problem ended up replacing the fuel pump. The fuel pump had a tiny leak, almost more like sweating, and when hot the problem would start.

However the fuel pump does not explain the error code that I keep getting, P1e30 error :Boost System Performance, short circuit to V Batt, controller deviation.

Will have to wait and see diesel specialist pick up on Tuesday.
 
had a similar issue and after changing many parts, i took off the manifold and disconnected the fuel sensor at the right (uk passenger side) which was green inside. good quality electrical contact cleaner and a quick rub with wetndry and it now runs superb.
 
had a similar issue and after changing many parts, i took off the manifold and disconnected the fuel sensor at the right (uk passenger side) which was green inside. good quality electrical contact cleaner and a quick rub with wetndry and it now runs superb.

Hi Jamadant.

Is this the fuel rail sensor that you are referring to beneath the air intake manifold. It basically sits on the end of the fuel rail on the right hand side?

Will try this next.

Thanks!
 
So the mechanic tested the whole fuel system, fuel pumps, fuel rail, injectors ect and all checks out. The only cause could be a sensor related or something else like the turbo self.

Will have to wait for the mechanic to test further tomorrow.
 
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