Where to put stands ?

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willo

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,102
Location
Belgium
Hi all,

As I'm thinking of getting under the car one of these days I was hoping someone could give me a hint where to put stands (4 of them as pictured below) to have the car with all four wheels off the ground in a safe way. The last time I tried it out I put these stands where normally the LR jack has to come when changing a flat tyre (near the wheels on the outside of the car) but when I lowered my hydraulic jack the body started to crack and make all kinds of noises so I wonder whether using these 4 spots is such a good idea. When they changed my tyres last month I noticed they put stands under the housing of the suspension bushes, almost in the middle of the car ??? Any "safe" suggestions pse ?? Thanks.

 
Not much help I know but I use car ramps but I would also be interested in knowing if theres anyone out there that puts axle stands in a particular place with no adverse affects:D
 
There are several places you can put them.

I use the suspension mounts for front wishbone. (Large silver castings)

Also on the rear subframe. In line with the two lashing loops on the subframe.

Place a thin piece of rubber or matt between stand and metal part of vehicle. Metal on metal slides easily. Did I read you cut up a piece of mouse mat on another thread? LOL

If your FL is level then place a trolley jack under centre part of front subframe and centre of rear subframe to lift front and rear of FL respectively.
 
There are several places you can put them.

I use the suspension mounts for front wishbone. (Large silver castings)

Also on the rear subframe. In line with the two lashing loops on the subframe.

Place a thin piece of rubber or matt between stand and metal part of vehicle. Metal on metal slides easily. Did I read you cut up a piece of mouse mat on another thread? LOL

If your FL is level then place a trolley jack under centre part of front subframe and centre of rear subframe to lift front and rear of FL respectively.

Hi LR,
Don't know whether the FL is level but the garagefloor is ....:D :D So no problem to use the trolley jack. Asked the same question on another FL forum and got a similar answer (but with a picture included) guess the large silver castings you mention are shown with the yellow arrows or am I wrong ? Thanks.

Reason why I ask all this is that I'm planning to make a palette on small rotating wheels to allow me to ly on it and drag myself under the car rather than to backcrawl under it all the time. Having the car level on stands gives more room under it and it's ideal to check the different fluid levels such as IRD, autobox etc...
 

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Willo. . . .yes your correct in the picture, also on the front you can use the cross members , jack front first , then rear , and remember this is much heavier than a standard motor so make sure the floor is sound, to get an approx of level use a spirit level on inside of door frame, don't worry bout 100% just an good way of getting your fluid correct, . . . .best of luck. .:)
 
Hi LR,
guess the large silver castings you mention are shown with the yellow arrows or am I wrong ? .

Yep as the other troopers have said that is the support points,

A trolley board is a worthwhile investment, saves neck ache and you dont rip your trousers on the garage floor

You shouldnt have any probs. If you checking oil levels make sure you have got correct sump plug spanners. Spray on penetratin fluid then go for a cup of tea. Come back after 30min and they should come undone easily

Good luck
 
Dont forget if its an auto gearbox - it must be done warm and make sure you get the correct level plug - otherwise you can damage the box! :)
 
A trolley board is a worthwhile investment, saves neck ache and you dont rip your trousers on the garage floor
i use porky's skate board . . .but last time i used it porky had jist oiled the wheels, went in under the back un shot outer the front. . .:D
 
rofwl - good one Minge - the picture in my mind was breathtaking :D

I find a 1foot hole in the ground works as well tho as stands - i call it a pit:p.
 
Dont forget if its an auto gearbox - it must be done warm and make sure you get the correct level plug - otherwise you can damage the box! :)

Hi MHM,

Thanks for your observation but this is the reason why I haven't checked it yet (not after 6 years yet...) to avoid (fear) I start fiddeling around with the incorrect plugs etc. Was thinking to check a picture of the box and enlarge it as much as possible, then print it and with the copy dive underneath the car to make sure I'm doing right.:eek: :eek: And yes, it's an autobox.
 
this might help ;)


Gearbox Fluid Level - Plug Location
Bulletin Number - 0002
Issue - 2
Date - 06.02.2002
Model - Freelander
Affected Range - All KV6 and Td4 Automatic derivatives (i.e. JATCO Transmission)
Re-Issue Information - PROBLEM, CAUSE and ACTION text amended. Issue 2 of this bulletin has become necessary due to continuing reports of incorrect bolt removal.
Problem
[FONT=Arial,Bold] [/FONT]INCORRECT IDENTIFICATION OF GEARBOX FLUID LEVEL PLUG
Cause
[FONT=Arial,Bold] [/FONT]When checking the fluid level on the JATCO automatic transmission incorrect bolts are being removed / loosened, causing serious damage & malfunction.
  • Removal of the reduction gear brake band bolt can cause total loss of drive or a substantial reduction in the performance of the transmission.
  • Removal of the parking pawl rod plate retaining bolt (located next to the XYZ switch) will result in gear selection problems / gear lever movement restrictions.
Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES must these items be removed or loosened - doing so will invalidate any warranty claim made. In normal service, only the fluid level plug and fluid filler plug should be removed.
Action
[FONT=Arial,Italic][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Italic]ACTION:[/FONT]
The level plug (arrowed) is fitted vertically into the underside of the gearbox casing, alongside the selector cable bracket and can be identified by its 5mm Allen socket head. The level plug closes the lower end of an internal level tube, therefore only excess fluid will be expelled when the plug is removed.
Image4.jpg
[FONT=Arial,BoldItalic] [/FONT]Observe due care when draining gearbox fluid as the fluid can be very hot.
[FONT=Arial,Bold] [/FONT]An advance copy of a revised Workshop Manual check and top up procedure is attached to this bulletin. Please ensure that all workshop personnel are aware of this information, which will be added to the Workshop Manual at the next opportunity.
Parts Information
[FONT=Arial,Bold][/FONT]Not applicable, issued for information purposes only.
Warranty
[FONT=Arial,Bold][/FONT]Not applicable

Check and top-up fluid
Check
1. Position vehicle on ramp.
2. Apply handbrake and position chocks under front and rear wheels.
3. Remove underbelly panel.
4. Connect TestBook to monitor gearbox fluid temperature.
CAUTION: The gearbox fluid level must only be checked when the temperature of the fluid is between 35° and 45°. The reading obtained will be incorrect if the fluid is outside this temperature range.
5. Start engine, move selector lever from 'P' through all gear positions, pausing in each gear position for 2-3 seconds and return to 'P' position.
6. Clean area aroundlevel plug.
Image5.jpg

7. With the engine still running, remove level plug using a 5 mm Allen socket and allow any excess fluid to drain off.
WARNING: Observe due care when draining gearbox fluid as the fluid can be very hot.
CAUTION: There are a number of similar fixings/plugs on the underside of the gearbox. It is imperative that the correct plug is removed prior to checking the level. Removing the wrong fixing/plug could result in internal damage to the gearbox.
Top-up
1. If no fluid loss is apparent when level plug is removed:
Image6.jpg
2. Remove filler plug and add fluid until it just runs from level plug aperture.
CAUTION: When topping up after a new air blast cooler (Td4 hot climates) has been fitted, an extra 420cc of fluid is required. The fluid must also reach a temperature of 80°C (176°F) to allow the switch on the cooler to open.
3. Move selector lever from 'P' through each gear position and return to 'P' , allowing any excess fluid to drain off.
4. Fit new level plug and tighten to 14 Nm (10 lbf.ft).
5. Clean and fit filler plug.
6. Disconnect TestBook.
7. Fit underbelly panel.
 
Hi MHM and yella,

Thanks for, in sequence, the information and the fiat for my avatar ....;) :) :) :)
 
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