ACE red light and ACE pump vibration

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Had the codes cleared and read back (after ACE red light) when it was warmer weather:

Pressure Signal out of range
Directional Control Value fault
System temp too high

I'm convinced it's related to heat based on the red light only triggers in warm (25-30deg C) ambient and either after 30 mins regular driving in town towing the caravan, or after a 45 min run and stopping at traffic lights etc (as heat builds). The ACE red light can be reset upon engine restart and it's gone (for a while).

BTW I have been quoted 3k to replace the ACE system!!! :eek::eek::eek:

Questions for the gurus:

I know the ACE pressure sensor is on the DCV block., but where's the ACE temperature sensor located?

Does the temp sensor measure ACE fluid temperature or something else/both (DCV block?)

Has anyone stripped the DCV block and repaired?

I suspect it's a PCB solder joint somewhere in the DCV block, maybe on the solenoids based on the fact the ABS modulator (three amigos) suffers with this.

Are there any PCBs within the DCV block?


Your thoughts most welcomed.

Cheers
Lea

i dunno how i missed that when it was "warm" sorry, but better later than never:)...so dont tell me you used a nanocom on it...cos if it's so you might 'walk in the dark'...nanocom is completely unreliable with ACE
1. there's no temperature input into the ACE ECU from nowhere, that code is a protocol error IMO
2. the pressure signal code(if it's real) is generated by the transducer
3. a DCV fault must not come alone, it must be pointed to which DCV, 1 or 2

the valve block has no electrics within just pipework and mechanically actuated valves(operated by the external solenoids)

use a hawkeye or T4 to read the codes...but if u used one of these and the system makes those warning tricks you've described and it's not in locked bars i rather suspect an ECU failure

if a reliable tester gives you a DCV(1 or 2) and pressure fault codes replace the pointed DCV solenoid and the transducer and IMO it will be good
 
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Hi and thanks for your really useful reply :)

It was an Autoligic diag reader (Autologic-Diagnostics -LAND ROVER Diagnostics) which unfortunately someone else used and charged me 40 quid, and it was a struggle to actually get the details of the codes from them - guessing they just want a £3k job - guess again garage!

I suspect the strange whirring sound and vibration coming from the block at 0.9-1.3k revs may help to diagnose the problem, but I'm not sure.

but if u used one of these and the system makes those warning tricks you've described and it's not in locked bars i rather suspect an ECU failure

No locked bars (well I can't feel any difference in roll when the red light's on) maybe I should try an ECU change, moreover remove it and check for damage. I'm an Electronics Eng. so this shouldn't be too difficult.
 
Hi and thanks for your really useful reply :)

It was an Autoligic diag reader (Autologic-Diagnostics -LAND ROVER Diagnostics) which unfortunately someone else used and charged me 40 quid, and it was a struggle to actually get the details of the codes from them - guessing they just want a £3k job - guess again garage!

I suspect the strange whirring sound and vibration coming from the block at 0.9-1.3k revs may help to diagnose the problem, but I'm not sure.



No locked bars (well I can't feel any difference in roll when the red light's on) maybe I should try an ECU change, moreover remove it and check for damage. I'm an Electronics Eng. so this shouldn't be too difficult.
Did you manage to get this sorted? I have the same problem now/
 
Did you manage to get this sorted? I have the same problem now/
Hi GJB, when you say you have the same problems do you mean ACE warning lights and a vibrating valve block? If yes, here's what I would do :

1. have the engine on tickover and check the ACE reservoir to confirm the flow and return is visible ie. a swirling in the fluid of the reservoir. Is the fluid level correct?
2. As you know all the ACE pipes and valve run down the rhs chassis rail. Check carefully along all the pipes for rust and leaks.
3. Re the valve block, using a long flat-bladed knife or similar, clear out any stones or mud trapped between the chassis rail and the valve block - very common this - removing this debris will often remove the buzzing.

Good luck

Dave
 
Hi GJB, when you say you have the same problems do you mean ACE warning lights and a vibrating valve block? If yes, here's what I would do :

1. have the engine on tickover and check the ACE reservoir to confirm the flow and return is visible ie. a swirling in the fluid of the reservoir. Is the fluid level correct?
2. As you know all the ACE pipes and valve run down the rhs chassis rail. Check carefully along all the pipes for rust and leaks.
3. Re the valve block, using a long flat-bladed knife or similar, clear out any stones or mud trapped between the chassis rail and the valve block - very common this - removing this debris will often remove the buzzing.

Good luck

Dave
Hi Dave. Thank you for your advice. I will do that anyway. I should have been clearer with the description of the problem. The ACE system is working perfectly. The header tank is full to correct level and swirling well. The lines are clear of leaks. The system is functioning well and the vehicle is level when cornering aggressively. The problem? After driving for more than 30 mins CV or so and then hitting motorway congestion and crawling for an extended period of time the alarm light and beep come on. The alarm sound ceases after a few minutes but the light remains on (red) regardless of the speed or length of the rest of the journey. The system is still functioning. If the traffic starts to move again and the vehicle is turned off and in again the alarm goes out and stays out. It only occurs when the vehicle is warm and stuck in crawling traffic.
 
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