ABS sensor resistance values?

[Ruaridh]

Sorry for a 3-amigos related question but I've spent hours searching and can't find this info. I don't have any way to read diagnostic codes but I've identified faulty ABS sensors on other makes of car with a digital multi-meter so thought I'd give it a go. 2 of them read 1042 ohms, 1 of them 1051 ohms and the last one 1024 ohms. This seems reasonably similar enough to suggest they're "in range" but I've no idea what the range might be.
My problem is that the red handbrake / fluid level warning light has come on permanently along with the 3-amigos. Cause is DEFINITELY not fluid sensor and I don't THINK handbrake switch. On some posts you read that this light can ONLY come on for these reasons, but then I saw a table that suggested all sorts of brake faults could make it come on. This model has no pad sensors. Does anyone know definitively if the SLABS (or brake ECU) can put the red brake light on?
I've lived with the 3-amigos on and off for the 3 years I've had the vehicle, sometimes I think it's caused by trailer wiring, other times by dirty rotors. Changing the rear pads once cured it for about a year. It always resets itself, I've never had to have it plugged into a computer. The traction control gets used quite a lot so the shuttle valve is well "exercised". However this time it's different, the red light came on along with the 3-amigos and they've all been on solidly ever since. The brakes appear to work fine.
If anyone knows the resistance value of the hub sensors, or can confirm for sure that faults in the braking system OTHER than handbrake switch, fluid, or pads can make the red "handbrake" light come on, I'd be most grateful.

 

[biggeeeee]

No idea of the answer to your question however you might be near a friendly sort of chap who has a fault code reader but alas seems we will never find out as you missed out your introduction and rough location.

Oh well never mind and of course

céad míle fáilte

 

[darrenm]

Where abouts are you would help

 

[brian47]

Trying to sort the "3 Amigos" with a DVM is going to be a bit of a trial, to say the least.
You really need a code reader (Test book, Nanocom or Hawkeye) to at least point you in the right direction.

As has already been said, "nice intro" now get yourself over to the Introduce Yourself section and let us know a bit about who and where you are.

 

[sierrafery]

Sorry for a 3-amigos related question but I've spent hours searching and can't find this info. I don't have any way to read diagnostic codes but I've identified faulty ABS sensors on other makes of car with a digital multi-meter so thought I'd give it a go. 2 of them read 1042 ohms, 1 of them 1051 ohms and the last one 1024 ohms. This seems reasonably similar enough to suggest they're "in range" but I've no idea what the range might be.
My problem is that the red handbrake / fluid level warning light has come on permanently along with the 3-amigos. Cause is DEFINITELY not fluid sensor and I don't THINK handbrake switch. On some posts you read that this light can ONLY come on for these reasons, but then I saw a table that suggested all sorts of brake faults could make it come on. This model has no pad sensors. Does anyone know definitively if the SLABS (or brake ECU) can put the red brake light on?
I've lived with the 3-amigos on and off for the 3 years I've had the vehicle, sometimes I think it's caused by trailer wiring, other times by dirty rotors. Changing the rear pads once cured it for about a year. It always resets itself, I've never had to have it plugged into a computer. The traction control gets used quite a lot so the shuttle valve is well "exercised". However this time it's different, the red light came on along with the 3-amigos and they've all been on solidly ever since. The brakes appear to work fine.
If anyone knows the resistance value of the hub sensors, or can confirm for sure that faults in the braking system OTHER than handbrake switch, fluid, or pads can make the red "handbrake" light come on, I'd be most grateful.

The range is 950-1100 ohm, the fact that the red brake warning comes on it means you have a healthy ECU(or a faulty ECU) cos that lamp was conceived to come together with the 3 amigos, the fact that it doesnt come on all the time is strange... as said the shortest way is to plug in a tester but you can do some measurements with the multimeter too...but these might not be relevant... a sensoror related fault could be the result of a worn hub aswell, see attachments then corroborate the car's behaviour with the default strategies maybe you'll get to a conclusion

the second row in the warnings table "Brake" means the red light, it's name is "brake system warning" , it's for the handbrake switch, the fluid level and those from the table...it has nothing to do with the pads though

 

[Ruaridh]

The range is 950-1100 ohm, the fact that the red brake warning comes on it means you have a healthy ECU(or a faulty ECU) cos that lamp was conceived to come together with the 3 amigos, the fact that it doesnt come on all the time is strange... as said the shortest way is to plug in a tester but you can do some measurements with the multimeter too...but these might not be relevant... a sensoror related fault could be the result of a worn hub aswell, see attachments then corroborate the car's behaviour with the default strategies maybe you'll get to a conclusion

the second row in the warnings table "Brake" means the red light, it's name is "brake system warning" , it's for the handbrake switch, the fluid level and those from the table...it has nothing to do with the pads though

Thanks very much Sierrafery for this helpful answer - that's exactly what I was trying to find out. It looks like, as I suspected, the actual hub sensors are OK although clearly bearing or rotor problems are still a possibility. You're right, that table does make it seem rather unlikely that I've had 3-amigos problems in the past without the red light (would that not make it 4-amigos!? ) so now the doubts are creeping in. However it's definitely different now - in the past they've always been re-set by stopping and re-starting the vehicle, even if they come on again (with the chimes) after only a few metres movement. Now they just come on about 1/2 second after the test sequence and stay on solidly. I guess the next step is to get the codes read but my gut feeling is this is an internal failure in the SLABS unit or the ECU. MOT time in a few weeks so this is going to get expensive......

Thanks also to others who responded; brief replies: -

Sorry I didn't realise it was such a big deal to make an introduction and give a location; not sure what difference it makes for the questions I asked. With respect, I don't like to put too much personal information onto web forums until I'm a bit more familiar with the people on there. I've never been pulled up before for not making an introduction, so we live and learn. I'll certainly furnish details if I frequent the board a lot.

Brian47: I wasn't trying to sort the 3-amigos with the DVM, I was simply trying to establish if the hub sensors were good. As they are only 2-wire and generally just a small coil of very fine wire (although some also have a diode) this is reasonable - open or short circuit in my experience indicates failure. In this case I was thrown a bit by the differing ohms readings and talk of them being "in range" which is why I asked the question.

Thanks again to all who responded.

Ruaridh.

 

[biggeeeee]

I asked for a ROUGH location simply because I have a Nanocom Evo which may have came in handy to you and would have been available to you at no cost.
Wasnt looking for your home address.

Also think its only right that any new member introduces themselves out of common courtesy.