coffee grinder sound

[PaulRussell]

First time in a forum so not sure of the netiquette. I hope this is the place to post this.

Having such problems with Land Rover I think I will have to get into fixing it myself.

I have a terrible crunching sound under my disco2 and because it only happens when driving I cannot find it. It sounds a bit like that sound when the traction control kicks in. It only happens when giving gas or climbing a hill. Can someone suggest a list of things to check?

A Bit of History.

We had the air suspension replaced by heavy duty springs here in Bulgaria but then we had a problem with the battery going flat all the time. Took it to land rover in Belgium and they charged 500 Euro and said it was fixed. Two days later stuck with a flat battery. Took a look ourselves and found that the cables were still plugged into the air supply unit. So disconnected these. No more power leak. Land Rover Belgium were not interested in our complaints.

Back in Bulgaria driving off road hit something but did not immediately see any damage. Later on the road discovered a big hydraulic leak in the area of the back axle. Limped into Land Rover in Burgas. They told me that the ACE system was finished as it had run dry and that it would cost a fortune to fix but that they could bypass it and put in a mechanical system. Get the disco back (3 weeks later) and now it sways all over the place on corners and it sounds like someone has hidden a coffee grinder under the chassis.

I also found that the Anti-roll bar link RH is just hanging loose. You can see on the photos how high it is with the new springs. Could this be a factor in this?

I also had a bearing sound on the right front wheel and I asked Land Rover to replace this while they were at it but it looks like they changed the left.

Having been bull****ted by land rover in two countries I need to figure this Disco out myself. We are in the middle of nowhere and the roads are nonexistent so it gets a very hard life. We have a well-equipped workshop though it’s not geared for mechanics. But we have a full set of tools and Air and Welding capabilities. I have the workshop manual. There is also a bridge in the village to put it up on.

 

[fanatic]

If you have checked props and wheel bearings and cv joints.

Look at disc shields as they rot out and touch disc or trap stones

 

[sierrafery]

I also found that the Anti-roll bar link RH is just hanging loose.

but did you fix that? cos it would make a lot of noise

to try to isolate the problem... if you have diff lock lock it , remove the front propshaft and drive it so for a while.... at least you'll know something then... even if you dont have the lever look for the spigot on the front of transfer box and you can lock it with spanner(if it's an early modell the spigot must be there)

 

[DIFFLOCK66]

The loose anti roll bar link would go a long way to explaining the boat like handling on corners!

Diff.

 

[PaulRussell]

The loose anti roll bar link would go a long way to explaining the boat like handling on corners!

Diff.

Do not underestimate my technical ignorance im a baby in this. When u say fix the anti roll bar link is this a matter of removing it fixing it and putting it back or do I need a new part? We have welding capabilities and a very good general (non-mechanical) workshop.
(Am I right in thinking that when land rover let me drive away like this they were risking lives? I almost lost it on a bend the first time it happened.)
The hydraulic hose was damaged and leaked out. As the ACE pump was running dry is that now dead as land rover said? Can I just replace the hose and fill up the reservoir? Should I remove a fuse to stop it working till the hose is replaced?
Thanks for ur time on this.

 

[PaulRussell]

i will check the other things suggested. thanks one and all

 

[PaulRussell]

f you have diff lock lock it , remove the front propshaft and drive it so for a while.... (if it's an early modell the spigot must be there)

do u mean lock the dif lock and remove the front prop shaft completely so its two wheel drive?

 

[jamesmartin]

Do not underestimate my technical ignorance im a baby in this. When u say fix the anti roll bar link is this a matter of removing it fixing it and putting it back or do I need a new part? We have welding capabilities and a very good general (non-mechanical) workshop.
(Am I right in thinking that when land rover let me drive away like this they were risking lives? I almost lost it on a bend the first time it happened.)
The hydraulic hose was damaged and leaked out. As the ACE pump was running dry is that now dead as land rover said? Can I just replace the hose and fill up the reservoir? Should I remove a fuse to stop it working till the hose is replaced?
Thanks for ur time on this.

if pump has been run dry it needs replacing with another pump or a idler pulley to take the place of pump ,non ace cars come with this ,pump will be driven if its fixed to car as ancillary belt drives it along with alternator pas pump etc if you get rid of ace a non ace roll bar and links needs fitting as well as removal of ace system , used parts for ace are usually cheap as most dont bother to fix it but go for removal and fit non ace kit ,links are very cheap but order nuts as they dont come with new nuts often and removal can be difficult and cutting off a preferred option

 

[jamesmartin]

where are the links ?

 

[sierrafery]

do u mean lock the dif lock and remove the front prop shaft completely so its two wheel drive?

yes... it will go only on rear drive and if the noise dissapears you'll know to search on the front...afaik on these kind of "agressive" lifts there could be a propshaft alignment issue aswell

about the ACE...the pump is driven by the belt permanently and self lubricated with the ACE fluid so running it dry for longer time would ruin it... the fuse has nothing to do with the pump.... what you can do is to reroute the pump's outlet to the return pipe in the reservoir and fill it with ATF to recirculate it cos the pump might get stuck being dry and it will ruin the belt

there is an idler to replace the pump(see pic) and a non-ACE belt( a bit shorter) ... as a cheap and easy improvisation is cut the pipes near the banjo connection at the two ACE actuators, tap a thread in it and find some grease nipples which you can screw in there then fill the actuators with thin grease equal both sides(those actuators are like a syringe inside)...follow this procedure: with acuator opened both sides, disconnect the actuator's rod and pull it out to the maximum fit bleed nipple to the upper side and fill all the way with the lower side open utill the rod goes entirely in then open the upper side, fit grease nipple to the lower side leaving the grease out on the other side untill the rod comes out to the middle, fit the grease nipple back and "pump" grease in both sides to refuse ...then it will act like on conventional anti roll bars.(like ACE in "locked bars" condition)

EDIT i was writing while jamesmartin posted


on a second thought if only the pressure pipes to the actuators are leaking, unplug both DCV's (the two solenoids on top of the valve block...they are closed without feed) and top up the reservoir...then you'll loose just the fluid from the pipes cos the system will go in locked bars condition and the pump will recirculate the fluid...will keep the pump "alive" untill you decide to bin the ACE or fix it:

'Locked bars' means that all pump flow is directed through the valve block and returns
to the reservoir. Both DCV's close and fluid is trapped in the actuators but can flow from one actuator to the other via
the valve block. .

 

[gemsdad]

yes... it will go only on rear drive and if the noise dissapears you'll know to search on the front...afaik on these kind of "agressive" lifts there could be a propshaft alignment issue aswell

about the ACE...the pump is driven by the belt permanently and self lubricated with the ACE fluid so running it dry for longer time would ruin it... the fuse has nothing to do with the pump.... what you can do is to reroute the pump's outlet to the return pipe in the reservoir and fill it with ATF to recirculate it cos the pump might get stuck being dry and it will ruin the belt

there is an idler to replace the pump(see pic) and a non-ACE belt( a bit shorter) ... as a cheap and easy improvisation is to remove the banjo bolts from the two ACE actuators, find some grease nipples which you can screw in instead(M10 i think but not sure) then fill the actuators with thin grease equal both sides(those actuators are like a syringe inside)...remove the banjo bolts, disconnect the actuator's rod and pull it out to the maximum fit bleed nipple to the upper side and fill all the way with the lower side open utill the rod goes entirely in then open the upper side, fit grease nipple to the lower side leaving the grease out on the other side untill the rod comes out to the middle, fit the grease nipple back and "pump" grease in both sides to refuse ...then it will act like on conventional anti roll bars.(like ACE in "locked bars" condition)

EDIT i was writing while jamesmartin posted


on a second thought if only the pressure pipes to the actuators are leaking, unplug both DCV's (the two solenoids on top of the valve block...they are closed without feed) and top up the reservoir...then you'll loose just the fluid from the pipes cos the system will go in locked bars condition and the pump will recirculate the fluid...will keep the pump "alive" untill you decide to bin the ACE or fix it:

sierra,i told you that this ACE fix should be a sticky on here.

 

[sierrafery]

... actually i reedited that post at nr 2 cos i spoke with my friend who did it and there's a slight difference cos the pipes to the actuator are holed by nuts not by bolts...but the theory is the same

 

[DIFFLOCK66]

Am I right in thinking that when land rover let me drive away like this they were risking lives? I almost lost it on a bend the first time it happened.

YES! Assuming that they did not tell you about the lack of an anti roll bar function! Dodgy of them

Diff.