Kwik-Fit Slap Hammer my brakes?

[dampsox]

My rear drums are binding, a hellish metallic rubbing noise varies with the speed of travel. Then the noise may go away or days...then it comes back...

My local Kwik-Fit, I was in for a cheap MOT, I asked them to look at rear brakes, but they could not get either drum off. They said they would need to whack them off with a 'slap-hammer- and I would get a pretty big repair bill.

I left the shop. Does this procedure sound right? It scared me witless as I am minimum wage.

Anyone in Rochdale or Oldham recommended for fixing this?

 

[howardo]

kwikfit rounded off my sump plug.

 

[the_wolf]

I wouldn't go to kwik fit for anything. Never heard of a slap hammer I'd steer clear

 

[chezvegas]

I used to use a rubber mallet to dislodge the drums if they were stuck, never a metal one as it could fracture the drum.

Incidentally I would never trust kwik fit to do anything after they stripped the threads on a hub of a previous car by shoving the wheel bolt in and letting rip with the air gun rather than seating it in the thread before hand.

Phone round some local garages for a quote. I think there was a "good garage" thread in the freelander section so have a read through that and you might find one that is recommended locally.

 

[trax]

You went to kwik fit

 

[nickcc]

Probably the wear lip on the drum preventing removal, may just need the self adjusters backing off through the holes in the back plate, remove the rubber grommet to gain access. Once the two securing screws have been removed the drum usually just slides over the hub and wheel studs. (May just need a tap with a hammer round the edge of the drum). The rubbing noise when not braking is often caused by the rust build up on the back plate catching on the drum.

 

[deejaybarn33]

do not go to qwick fit they wanted to charge me 700 for front disks and calipers rip off merchants

 

[Soloby Rob]

My rear drums are binding, a hellish metallic rubbing noise varies with the speed of travel. Then the noise may go away or days...then it comes back...

My local Kwik-Fit, I was in for a cheap MOT, I asked them to look at rear brakes, but they could not get either drum off. They said they would need to whack them off with a 'slap-hammer- and I would get a pretty big repair bill.

I left the shop. Does this procedure sound right? It scared me witless as I am minimum wage.

Anyone in Rochdale or Oldham recommended for fixing this?

If your rear brakes are binding that's an MOT fail.
Try backing off the hand brake, hit the drum several times all the way round and see what happens.
If the brakes are binding bad sometimes the only way IS to use either a puller or slide hammer, at worse you'll need new shoes and retaining pins.

 

[Freelaner]

If your rear brakes are binding that's an MOT fail.
Try backing off the hand brake, hit the drum several times all the way round and see what happens.
If the brakes are binding bad sometimes the only way IS to use either a puller or slide hammer, at worse you'll need new shoes and retaining pins.

+1


and kwik **** are butchers imho

 

[teddywood1]

quick fit does not know how to do the job properly , many years ago back in the 70's i went to them to get a exhaust on as they were the cheapest , and while i was there i had new front shockers on , a week later my exhaust had come loose so of i went to get them to put it right , while there they said my front shockers were leaking so i said change them they got a shock when they tried to give me the bill i refused to pay and presented them with the proof of the last bill nothing more was said.

 

[neiltce]

I've always used a lump hammer on brake drums. Never had a problem..

It ain't the hammer that damages the drum.. It's how hard ya hit it..

 

[lorri789]

A slap hammer is for flattening stuff out. Why use that on brake drums is beyond me.

 

[WLJayne]

Mine had been laid up for 8 months before I got it and one rear brake was seveerely jammed. I had to get the little screw out, then go round it with a small pry bar and tease it off mm by mm using brake cleaner as I went. It will come off with patience, Kwik Fit are muppets and should not be trading IMO.

Once the drum was off I gave the shoes a few gentle taps with a rubber mallet to get them loose and then worked my way round with brake cleaner, methelated spirits and PlusGas penetrator. It took a bit of work but I got there are they have been fine since. I also ground down the lip that had built up on the edges of the drum, so it's now easy to get them off - a good thing if you go offroad!

 

[waldershelf]

An object lesson for all, Don't use Quick Fit. As to removing brake drums, you do run the risk of cast iron drums shattering if you use a steel hammer all though it has never happened to me.
I use a big Thor copper/hide hammer now, I think (?) the dead blow from the copper is more effective than a steel one which has a tendency to "bounce". This might be a load of cock but It is my opinion for what it's worth.

 

[teddywood1]

i had a shock ,when the wife said that she had a constant squeel from her rear brakes, the shock was she knew where the squeel was coming from , when I eventually got the drum off half of one of the shoes pad was lying at the bottom !

 

[dogsbody]

An object lesson for all, Don't use Quick Fit. As to removing brake drums, you do run the risk of cast iron drums shattering if you use a steel hammer all though it has never happened to me.
I use a big Thor copper/hide hammer now, I think (?) the dead blow from the copper is more effective than a steel one which has a tendency to "bounce". This might be a load of cock but It is my opinion for what it's worth.

I use a dead blow hammer now. Plastic head so less chance of damaging the target and no rebound. But on a job like this, once you've backed the brakes off, it's patience that counts.
Treat it like the missus. Both will respond better to some time spent easing and lubricating things followed by some rhythmical banging.
Try to do it too quickly and you not only don't get the desired result but you might end up not being able to play for a while and suffering pain, both physical and in the wallet.

 

[melon]

Can't get thicker than a quick-fit fitter.

 

[englishbullterrier]

i use a dead blow hammer now. Plastic head so less chance of damaging the target and no rebound. But on a job like this, once you've backed the brakes off, it's patience that counts.
treat it like the missus. Both will respond better to some time spent easing and lubricating things followed by some rhythmical banging.
try to do it too quickly and you not only don't get the desired result but you might end up not being able to play for a while and suffering pain, both physical and in the wallet.

 

[WLJayne]

Treat it like the missus. Both will respond better to some time spent easing and lubricating things followed by some rhythmical banging.

Sig quoted !!

 

[cable guy]

Whilst serving my apprenticeship many, many moons ago, the foreman showed me a trick for removing seized brake drums. Using two hammers, hit the drum on opposite sides, simmel....symultay... at the same time! The resultant shock vibrates through the drum, shoes etc. and loosens them enough for easy removal. I've done this on several occasions over the years and its worked every time. The trick is the co-ordination, and only moderate clouting of the drum.