Diff lock stuck on!

[ct21]

Hi I was wondering if anybody can help me with a problem i have with my Classic Range rover 3.9 efi auto L reg, I have noticed that when pulling out of my drive and turning full left lock and full right on to the road the tyres seam to be grabbing and a slight whining coming from the gearbox, I can select hi and low ok with no problem, but a friend of mine said the auto diff lock might be stuck and winding up the gearbox and thats why its whining, is there anything that i could do or does it have to go in to a 4x4 garage.

Regards Chris

 

[RS2000CUSTOM]

Had the same with my Classic Soft Dash 1994

Centre viscous coupling inside transfer box is seized

WARNING - You will shatter planet gears in either of the front or rear diffs if you do not act soon !!!!

Simply remove rear propshaft and make vehicle front wheel drive ONLY

You will need to use spacers to tighten the park brake flange bolts but other than that nothing else

I ran my RRC for 3 years FWD only without any probs

OBVIOUSLY you will NOT be able to go off road until you fit a new or good 2nd hand viscous diff

Hope this helps

 

[Deasy]

If you remove a prop and have no drive then it's not a diff lock prob, if you remove one and can still drive without selecting diff lock, then it's an issue

 

[RS2000CUSTOM]

Classic Range rover 3.9 efi auto L reg,

without selecting diff lock

L reg RRC has no selectable centre diff lock

It is a viscous unit that should "lock" only when it senses drive "slipping"

Here is a similar P38 unit

 

[norseman]

As others have said it's almost certain to be the VCU which will cause extensive damage if you continue to drive the car. Be very wary of second-hand replacements as you have no idea of their condition, not too bad if you get the VCU cheap & change it yourself but expensive if you have to pay labour (as I did) only to find you've bought a duff unit.

 

[ct21]

Had the same with my Classic Soft Dash 1994

Centre viscous coupling inside transfer box is seized

WARNING - You will shatter planet gears in either of the front or rear diffs if you do not act soon !!!!

Simply remove rear propshaft and make vehicle front wheel drive ONLY

You will need to use spacers to tighten the park brake flange bolts but other than that nothing else

I ran my RRC for 3 years FWD only without any probs

OBVIOUSLY you will NOT be able to go off road until you fit a new or good 2nd hand viscous diff

Hope this helps

Thank you all so much for your thoughts, I am a lot wiser now as what to expect. So first thing in the morning i will take the back prop off and see , so watch this space and i have got everthing crossed but i dont think its going to be cheap lol but hay! thats why we love these things,

Regards Chris

 

[RS2000CUSTOM]

So first thing in the morning i will take the back prop off and see ,

I can guarantee 1 thing you will see is black lines when you doin the traffic light drag strip - lol

I often used to "lite-up" a front wheel pulling away and the looks on other drivers when a great big Rangie is smokin its tyres next to em lol

In the wet I could even get the auto box to pull other gears as well - takes time to perfect the burn out though but great fun - lol lol

 

[Saint.V8]

If it uses a VC like the P38 , surely another VC test is jack up one wheel an try and turn it (gearbox in N) should be stiff to turn, locked solid is VC duff spins freely is diff or driveshaft duff

 

[jamesmartin]

exactly the same v/c rtc6044 ,test is the same ,aslso you usually need to get ftc657 rear out put shaft its common to strip splines were it enters center diff ,just unbolt speedo housing and pulls out ,we used to build new and recon t/boxes for classic when p38 came out and bw wouldnt anymore ,the rear shaft was know failing and was only part suppplied to them from lr