300tdi injection pump pulse timing

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I have performed a top-end rebuild with a rebuilt IP, new lift pump and new injectors.
Timing set per factory specs with proper tools, valves adjusted correctly.
When rotating engine by hand and fuel solenoid energized, the IP pulses fuel to the top of #1 cylinder just after the exhaust valve closes and the piston is 10-15 degrees after top dead center on the intake stroke. This can't be right.
Further cranking verified the timing order of the IP is correct, however it pulses, from what I can tell, slightly less than one complete revolution of the crank out of time.
If I had the crank at TDC, flywheel pin engaged, cam gear mark dead on the casting mark and IP timing pin engaged when timing belt was installed, the only solution I can imagine is that the IP flange (to which the IP gear attaches) was mounted "upside down", or nearly 180 degrees out.
When the IP pulses, the timing pin slot for the IP is at 6:00 on the pump, not 12:00 as it should be.
Thanks in advance for you help.
 
You could try checking the timing with tools for an older non tdi VW Rabbit or Jetta. Remove the bolt in the center of the injector pipe fittings and screw in the tool with a dial indicator. You will need the short tool, otherwise the vacuum pump will be in your way. Check google for timing a 1.6 VW diesel and use 1.54 mm instead of .8-.9mm.

My guess is that when they rebuilt the IP, they put the pulley flange back in the wrong place relative to the shaft. Where in the states did you get the IP rebuilt? Few have ever heard of the 300tdi engine. I know a guy in Maine who can help you if you really get stuck.

Steve (in NC mountains with 300tdi Disco)
 
possibly true as there is no key way for pump pulley take it back and get it reset

I think there is a keyway in the pulley but no key in the shaft. Sometimes there are stains in the taper which you can just line up with the keyway and get it pretty close before locking it down. I'm sure there is a more scientific method but can't find it off the cuff.

Steve
 
I totally agree but where this guy is located, getting it reset properly might be a big challenge. Plenty of expertise on VE pumps but anything specific to 300tdi will be hard to find.
 
In case you want to try repositioning the drive flange,I have taken the drive flange off my 300 tdi Bosch pump,to renew the seal with viton (my bio ate the original).There is a "fat,bent horseshoe" shaped washer on the side of the pump,held in place by a 10mm (head) bolt-slacken bolt,remove washer,retighten bolt and you will lock the pump shaft.You can now remove the nut on the end of the shaft(Clamp flange properely-nut is very tight-I used large stilsons)Do not put any load on the locking bolt .Once nut is off,remove drive flange with a puller.Once repositioned and tightened up,do not forget to put spacer back under pump lock bolt.
Just out of interest,there is a keyway milling in the pump shaft-but no matching keyway in the flange-it is held purely on the taper.
Good luck if you have a go
 
In case you want to try repositioning the drive flange,I have taken the drive flange off my 300 tdi Bosch pump,to renew the seal with viton (my bio ate the original).There is a "fat,bent horseshoe" shaped washer on the side of the pump,held in place by a 10mm (head) bolt-slacken bolt,remove washer,retighten bolt and you will lock the pump shaft.You can now remove the nut on the end of the shaft(Clamp flange properely-nut is very tight-I used large stilsons)Do not put any load on the locking bolt .Once nut is off,remove drive flange with a puller.Once repositioned and tightened up,do not forget to put spacer back under pump lock bolt.
Just out of interest,there is a keyway milling in the pump shaft-but no matching keyway in the flange-it is held purely on the taper.
Good luck if you have a go

Aha, I got it wrong. I knew it was in one piece and not the other. I picked the wrong piece. I wonder why they did that?

Steve
 
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