2.5 DSE clutch and flywheel

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polsta

Active Member
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843
Location
Portsmouth, south coast
2.5 dse p38 , if you replace the clutch do you have to replace the duel mass flywheel ? or can the flywheel be checked ? if so how ?

the clutch is ok at moment but will need doing at some point, and its driving ok, with it like this...is there a way i can do some sort of test for the flywheel if its ok and fully operational ?

would appriciate any help and advice... £500 cost for the flywheel alone is :eek: :( , so im obviously hoping that can be avoided ?? as a clutch and labour isnt going to be cheap as it is, but £3-400 , is better than £8/900 i suppose
 
AFAIK the fly wheel can be checked for rotational play. It's supposed to have some play but not a lot.
Both of times my gbox came off I asked the mechanics (two different ones) if the DMF was OK and both times I was told that it was checked and the there wasn't any "extra" play, so i've never replaced it.
 
ok thanks, i do pray its ok, my mate (mechanic) is saying the fly wheel should be replaced along with a clutch, but i could really do without the £500 flywheel cost aswell

is there any other advice from anyone on this ? whos done it in past, or just replaced the clutch without the flywheel etc
 
it would clatter at tick over if buggered ,you can rotate them either way to see if it knocks it should just feel spring as you try and twist it as any damper would ,if your keeping car change it,if not and its not noisy now it will last a bit longer
 
ok cool, the tickover is ok and it drives ok/well , if it "would last a bit longer" if ok, how much longer is longer roughly ? and what would happen then..would it be a case of it starting to go, and then buying a new one and putting it in with the new clutch i put in now...or would a new clutch be needed then also ?
 
ok cool, the tickover is ok and it drives ok/well , if it "would last a bit longer" if ok, how much longer is longer roughly ? and what would happen then..would it be a case of it starting to go, and then buying a new one and putting it in with the new clutch i put in now...or would a new clutch be needed then also ?

On my Transit, the first sign of the DMF failing was the starter motor seizing, blocked up with black dust from the DMF. It then started to rattle when ticking over and the clutch started to drag making gear changes difficult.
When I got it out it looked as though the two sections would have parted company completely before much longer:eek:
I replaced it with a solid one, no point paying €580 for a DMF, the rust will have finished the truck long before I'd had my monies worth, done about 3K miles since with no problem:)
 
On my Transit, the first sign of the DMF failing was the starter motor seizing, blocked up with black dust from the DMF. It then started to rattle when ticking over and the clutch started to drag making gear changes difficult.
When I got it out it looked as though the two sections would have parted company completely before much longer:eek:
I replaced it with a solid one, no point paying €580 for a DMF, the rust will have finished the truck long before I'd had my monies worth, done about 3K miles since with no problem:)


see the thing is... i have no clatter at tickover as aboove, and NO issues at all with gear change

at the moment all there is is the very slightest bit of shudder at pull away but only just at the very top of clutch release , the car drives fine still

there are no issues at all that point towards anythign else or fly wheel related ?
 
ford starter issue is common but ive only seen it with fords not rr, dual mass is clutch damper as said ,clutch plate has no springs ,theres no way you can tell how log it will last ,you can only tell if its buggered ,vibration can be first noticeable symptom ,clatter comes later when the two halves knock against each other after dampening is going http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...sg=AFQjCNFTzU3njMFu0zbSiv8awtaYRsfU7g&cad=rja
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...sg=AFQjCNGmN8FAqnVi3_qL_EZL-56egYbr-g&cad=rja
 
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