1995 4.6 HSE help needed

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Active Member
Posts
163
Location
Loch Lomond, Scotland
Hi everyone,

I am considering buying a P38 which won't start.
There appears to be an immobiliser issue as the engine won't turn over.
This happened after the battery went flat.

Is this something that is easily resolved?

I appreciate any input.

Rudy
 
.......... big pockets and a HUGE sense of humour .......


agree with the out of synch thing. Needs the fob re-synching using the method shown in the manual. If you don't have the code you can get it from the dealers by produing VIN number / V5 doc.
 
Thanks guys, much appreciated :)

I've got big pockets, although empty :)
A HUGE sense of humour is not a problem......hopefully.

I hope the green slip of the V5 is sufficient for the dealer? Else I'll have to wait weeks to get the code with the new V5 :(
 
yes it can go to lock out, if you put in where you are somebody may be able to help you. or put you on to somebody that can..
 
what the heck is your user name? all i get is weird placeholder gifs in my browser! :doh:

you can literally ring up a dealer with the car's VIN and they more often then not will give you the EKA code over the phone. I would heartily recommend you download an owner's manual if the car doesn't have one. You'll need it know how to enter the EKA (for example, it won't accept the EKA if the bonnet is open!).

Better yet download the complete RAVE (workshop and repair manual) from here. The owner's manual is included.
 
rasheed said:
what the heck is your user name? all i get is weird placeholder gifs in my browser! :doh:

you can literally ring up a dealer with the car's VIN and they more often then not will give you the EKA code over the phone. I would heartily recommend you download an owner's manual if the car doesn't have one. You'll need it know how to enter the EKA (for example, it won't accept the EKA if the bonnet is open!).

Better yet download the complete RAVE (workshop and repair manual) from here. The owner's manual is included.
Click to expand...

thanks Rasheed :)

My username is Rudy, but since that name was already taken, I used different code ;)
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I was told today that, in an attempt to fix the issue, they have replaced the ECU. I presume they meant the BeCM.

Does this make things more complex?
 
I have had this problem for ages. The story seems to be that the immobiliser 'wakes up' every time anyone operates a key within range of the vehicle. This in turn drains the battery, and eventually goes flat, the immobiliser then shuts down. Following the procedure to restart it did no good whatsoever, including the RAC, whose guy came out, hooked up his laptop, contacted his techie guys, blah blah blah. You are then in a recovery situation, but the standard RAC / AA van cannot recover a Rangie as it's too big and heavy!!

Eventually, having had the equipment reset three times over a few months (80 quid a pop) I bit the bullet, and had the immobiliser receiver replaced (160 plus VAT) and (this is important) a new diesel battery, as one of the issues is this battery draining thing, and a diesel battery is far stronger... that was 130 quid... I presume these issues are exacerbated if you leave the car in a public area when there are scores of people zapping their own cars in the vicinity and making yours go off as a result!

Moral of the story... make sure the battery is up to the job, and consider that receiver unit too. I completely agree that the P38 is a wonderful vehicle. My previous car was a Beamer 7-series which I also loved. The RR is not as well built for my money, and it's even more thirsty but the versatility combined with the comfort and safety and that wow factor the Range Rover has, have made it a very pleasant purchase. Yes you do need deep pockets for petrol, tyres and so forth. But surely anyone walking within 50 meters of one would instinctively know this?

Also it has sailed through the 3 MoT's I've owned it for, including today when it passed with a few advises (cracked windscreen and mirror glass, which of course could have happened to any car!!!)
 
Just joined today and too stupid to start a new thread. Hi everyone, I have had various landrovers and range rovers for 20 years and I joined this forum to get this question answered. Can you please settle a debate on my p38 range rover (or any range rover with a viscous coupling instead of a manual diff lock). I assert that under full traction and normal driving conditions, there is little or no torque transfer through the vcu to the front axle. The alternate plates in the vcu have little or no relative angular velocity, shear torque is minimised and essentially the drive is from the back wheels and the front wheels are 'pushed'. I fully understand the action of the vcu when a wheels slips and my assertion remains that a p38 is essentially a rear wheel drive vehicle until slip conditions engage the front axle. My local garage maintains that it is permanent four wheel drive and the front and rear axles are both driven by the transfer box at all times with the vcu limiting slip between axles under low traction conditions.
 
I believe your description is correct for the Freelander VCU as this is mostly RWD.

The two units are different One is a coupling unit designed to split power mostly to one axle (Freelander) the other is a Centre Differential (Range Rover)

As for the Range Rovers fitted with VC centre diff, equal power is divided front and rear, and in the slippy stuff, the power is then transmitted to the aaxle with most grip....
 
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