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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

I am a big fan of Preventative Maintenance - makes my life easier, the ability to try and spot potential faults or failures in advance and also prevents further damage to other components.

A couple of weeks ago in the very hot weather we have had (not that the recent days have been any better) but on the long slog between Guildford Train Station and the A31 Hogs Back which is a few miles long up a moderate but steady gradient after being stuck in Guildford town centre traffic and stop start driving popping into B&Q, Wickes, Tile Warehouse.....etc etc etc, the Gearbox went into its cooling stratergy, it holds the lower gears and prevents upshifts to raise engine revs and as such gearbox pump speed to try and circulate as much fluid through the cooler as possible to reduce box temperature.

This process is totally normal and should prevent the dreaded TRANS. OVERHEAT warning....if you ge tthat - you have issues that require looking at ASAP to try and save the box!

In a over a year of ownership, this is the first time it has ever gone into the Cool Down stratergy and hasn't done it since.

Last week on my girlfriends birthday, we went to Woburn Safari Park (we go every year on her birthday, she loves the place) and we spent 8 hours crawling around in 27degC heat, A/C on (off whenever we had the windows open in the pens were we weren't going to get eaten!) stopping and starting, hills, no shade etc and she never even murmoured, gearbox fine, cooling system fine.

BUT, taking note of the cooling stratergy and the reports that the oil cooler is only just capable of the job, I thought best to replace it in anycase and whilst I was there also replace the Cooler thermostat and back plate too.

The Back Plate is plastic and over years of heating and cooling, can become brittle and leak coolant - this is apparently a common fail item (what isn't on these things?) so for the sake of another £30 odd best replace it.

The Thermostat has been known to fail, I wouldn't...

Replacing a diff pinion oil seal on Rover axles.

First take out the fill plug for your axle (just to check it will come out!) then take out the drain axle and let the oil drain into a suitable container.

Then remove the propshaft by undoing the 4 bolts holding it to the diff output flange. I found a propshaft tool wasn’t that easier than 2 spanners to be honest. Tie it up securely out of the way.
You should then see this, straighten and pull the split pin out.

Undo that big nut, it’s a 1 inch jobbie and should be farking tight. I used a big breaker bar and a wrench on the flange to hold it still. DO NOT tug on it if you have half the vehicle on axle stands as tugging this nut causes the vehicle to move and it could come down on you head and kill you. I had all 4 wheels on the floor for this, wheels chocked.
When the nut is off it will look like this

Pull of the drive flange, it should come off by hand, if not encourage it with a rubber mallet. Make a note of the order of any washers/spacers that come off with it. Now you can see the drive splines and the seal itself. I have lots of splines, some people might only have 4 chunky ones. That’s fine. My seal looks ok but the inner lip was quite worn. Have a look at your drive flange you just removed, make sure the surface the seal runs on is smooth and clean, if its pitted or ridged it will need replacing....
Hi Chaps,

Just though those of you of a pre 1960 motoring disposition may be interested as you may not have come up for renewal yet.

My Road Fund License renewal came through the post this month for my 1952 80".

When I tried to tax it on-line the site informed me that I could not proceed as there was no valid MOT certificate in the system for the vehicle for the date of renewal.

Quite correct, my current MOT is due to expire on the 19th June.

However the date of 1st registration on my V5 is clearly 1st March 1952.

When I mentioned this on the LRSOC forum 233ac pointed me to the "Declaration of exemption from MOT testing" form "V112" on the DFT website

Downloadable forms

Scroll down and download the V112, fill it out and present it in absentia of your MOT certificate.

I just taxed my 80" for another year for the delightful sum of £0. In fact in total it cost me 50p to park in town.

That said, I will still at some stage in the not too distant future present SFF at an MOT testing station for my own peace of mind, I just don't think I will have the opportunity this month.
Anti Burst locks as used on 'fenders can befitted to Series doors with minor modications...


395038 - door handle
395037 - door handle
FQB000050 - anti burst catch
FQB000040 - anti burst catch
395056 - locks

Door... Needs an extra hole drilling in it for the lock, best to take the old lock out and line up the new lock to work out where the hole is... I didn't really do a very good job at this...



On mine (which i'm now thinking might be bent...) the drivers side doesn't line up just bolting the new catch in place of the old one...


However, using one of the spaces from the old catches does the job perfectly:


Door needs a gentle shut to securely shut, however ,a proper little slam for the lock to fully engage and allow it to be locked.

For some reason my passenger side catch needed recessing, so, i cut a hole for it with the dremel...


The bottom slots in and bolts as normal, but i used a longer M10 bolt at the top to brace it against the back of the bulkhead......
Some clunking was occuring beneath my Landrover. After lots of poking about I ascertained it was either a) the front diff or b) the gearbox output shaft/transfer box input shaft wear. I have an LT77 Gearbox and an LT230 transfer box.

I started with examining the wear on the gearbox/transfer box - there was some on the transfer box gear but it was minimal. This wear is a well documented fault with the early LT230's were not enough oil gets to the splines causing wear and eventually loss of drive due to the splines stripping. Land Rover rectified this by introducing a retro-fit oil feed plate to direct oil at the splines, and they later introduced a cross drilled shaft in the transfer box. These 2 solutions essentially stopped the premature wear. Either one is effective, you don't have to do both. Ashcroft Transmission were excellent at giving me advice and providing me with an oil feed plate.

Here is how I went about fitting it:

1. First take off your cubby box/centre seat and remove the access panel underneath in order to access the top of the transfer box. This is the view that you should see - mark a line across the top of the transfer box like I have (the white line) this is to help line it all up when you put it back together as the bolt holes are not evenly spaced around the PTO cover - undo these 6 bolts.

2. Remove the PTO cover plate, it may need a tap with a hide mallet to unstick it. You may or may not have a gasket underneath it, either re-use it, get a new one or some RTV sealant when you re-assemble....
ABS Fault appeared spuriously as in this thread - http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/im-lonely-lets-throw-fault-213774.html

And following on from my Recurring ABS Issue Thread - http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/recurring-abs-fault-222079.html

I ordered the replacement ABS Short Harness from my local LR Dealer (Hunters in Guildford) and it arrived the next day (£30.02 May 2013)....
So as yesterday was a great day weather-wise, I thought I would give it a go.

Reading the offical Land Rover Technical Bulletin (attached in the Second link above) the procedure is to unwrap the ABS short Harness and then splice in the replacement harness. They state the use of Crimp connections, but I am not a fan of those so I decided to solder and sleeve my connections, and because I was not using bulky Crimp connections I would not have to stagger the joints (which is a pain to do).

First up is to place the bonnet into Service Mode (read my Radiator How To in the How To Section)

Next is to disconnect the battery - remember to wait for the Sat Nav unit to turn off first (read my Fuel Pump How To in the How To Section)

The Replacement Harness from LR....


The Original Short Harness.....

Lever open the locking catch on the ABS connection

Remove the ABS Connection

Undo the Earth Connection


Using a small screw driver, lever the tabs on the Connection and take the top off

Start unwrapping the original harness to expose the wiring loom - there is a lot...
Taken from Original thread

Just finished the replacement. what a job!!!! I put some copper paste on the front of the sleeve hopefully will be all ok. One thing i was not sure about...should i get rid of the plastic protector or fix it back?

As my religion says Below are some pics. together with the procedure for anyone who might need it

1. Started undoing bolts on the actual bonnet like someone said in one of these threads (size 10)
2. 1st bolt out, 2nd bolt was made of cheese or a similar material, head got rounded off (you might be lucky at this stage and the two bolts come out)
3. Got a spare catch-and-latch
4. Cut existing catch bolt


5. Bonnet pops up as if you have pulled the cable
6. Removed top radiator holds
7. Removed Bumper (4 screws in wheel arch to dismantle gaiter, 1 bolt beneath headlamp size 10 On each side & 4 screws at bottom from valance to sump guard and 3 clips at top of bottom grill)


8. Push radiator backwards and drill the rivets on the plastic cover
9. With a soldering iron, melt the whereabouts of the rivets you cant drill (if you havent taken the rad completely out that is)
10. Undo bolts (size 10) holding spring mechanism
11. re route new cable (loop end to mechanism, pin end to handle in footwell)
12. clip gromit in
13. test
14. re assemble
15. replace or refit catch-and-latch mechanism
16. slacken bottom bolts of latch and slowly close bonnet (this is to re-align the two parts)
17. open bonnet an re-tighten
18. sing alelulia

Hope this has been useful and the too-many-details are for those who are having a go at it. I reckon a garage would charge some good money for this job so worth a go-at
Right, im going to give it a go a and do a write up of my PCV replacement :D
Although im not great at stuff like this, so prob wont be as good as saintV8's stuff.

If you have a 4.4 v8 i really cant stress this enough to do this if it hasnt been done.

My cam covers started to weep and my MPG started dropping off recently, and when i looked into it and searched around i found out that this is a prety major and common issue on the L322


I checked my two top hoses and they were fine, (probably replaced when the LPG kit was fitted)
(6759A and 6759B on the diagram)

So i removed the cyclone (6B673 on the diagram), which is easy enough, 2 hoses at the top and one at the bottom.
The cyclone is held on by one bolt, and the cyclone itself is threaded so no need to worry about a nut. Just the bolt.

One removed it was clear just how blocked it was with gunk, so i soaked it on degreaser and flushed it out with a hose and left to dry
Sorry i dont have any pics of this, but its fairly self explanatory.

Next i tackled the PCV valve which i bought direct from guy salmon along with the gasket
PCV valve - LKR000040
PCV gasket - LKJ000060

Put the bonnet into service mode by releasing the gas struts and locking it in place
You will need to disconnect the battery and the +lead in the engine bay in order to get the vent block out, the vent block is helt in with 2 13mm nuts, one either side and are obvious, with these 2 removed and the + bat leas disconnected it just slides out with very little effort

With the vent block removed it makes access to the rear of the engine much easier, the cam covers of the engine is safe...
So a follow on to my previous thread...


Local Autofactors had the pump on the shelf for £68 odd +VAT, so after dropping the Girlfriend off at work, I went to pick it up.

Also picked up another 5 litres of Coolant concentrate.

Got home, and got started...

First things is to place the bonnet in Service Mode, and remove the Viscous Fan and Shroud...see my Radiator How To for how this is achieved.

Next is to loosen the pulley bolts as this is easier with belt tension to hold the pulley

Loosen the Belt Tensioner locking bolts (2 of them) to relieve the tension on the belt

Slip the belt off

Unclip the pipes to the Alternator and the top of the Water Pump...these have little spring clips on, so lever the clip up and pull the hose off!

Next is to remove the Secondary Air Injection pipe work from in front of the pump, this is a bit of a fiddle as the L/H bank (R/H as facing engine) is hidden under the rocker cover and has to be done by feel....I remove the wrong bolt at first and was about 2” long....this is the wrong bolt, the correct one is...
First things first....

Tools required:
8mm Allen key for Sump and Fill/Level plugs
T27 Torx bit for Sump bolts and Filter Bolts
Stanley Blade/Gasket Scrapper/Wide Screwdriver
Plenty of Rags
Drip Tray
Receptacle for Oil
Method of refilling (I used a pressure sprayer attached to a length of flexible hose)
Degreaser/cleaning products

Always use the correct grade of ATF for the L322 Gearboxes – considering the price of this stuff, shopping around helps.
I bought 7 litres from a local VW/Audi place as theirs was the cheapest I could get hold of in the time I had....£11.70 a litre with the VAT. LR was £14 odd plus the VAT so was about £16-17 ish a litre...
VW part number G-052-162-A2

Raise Vehicle – Now before everyone goes bandy, I know driving up 4 ramps is a no-no, but I needed access underneath for a larger than average person and also have the vehicle level to drain and refill the box.

Climb underneath and laugh at the ‘Filled for Life’ sticker.. :D

On first inspection underneath, it looks like there has been a fluid leak from the front corner of the sump




OK, now before you do anything there are couple of Must Do steps

Spray some penetrating fluid on to the sump bolts, drain and fill plugs

Make sure you have a viable and working method of refilling the box, I used a cheap pressure Fence Sprayer from Homebase (£14.99) and took the little plastic filter off the end of the delivery tube, cut the yellow plastic tube shorter and attached some flexible hose to that so I could feed it into the fill hole....