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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

This post provides links to download the Freelander 2 repair manual for free. Free as in you don't pay for it. There are a number of people selling the same free repair manual on e.bay. Don't be fooled by their advertising. They're charging you for the same information you get here for free.

Freelander 2 repair manual and wiring diagrams 2006 - 2010 available in the link below:
These are free to download.

Freelander 2 = Freelander 2 repair manual and wiring diagrams 2006 - 2010

Click the link above to open the download screen. If it asks you to login, select the "no thanks..." option at the bottom of the login form. Then click the download arrow, and select "direct download". Example screen shots below. You may need to click "no thanks..." and the download arrow then "direct download" a second time for it to work.



The above download is from a new site I've only just started to use. I hope it will work for everyone.

This manual is free to download. 3229 pages of pdf manual. 291mb in size.

If the download stops working tell me. It may intermittently stop working occasionally.
Why would this happen? Free storage on the web doesn't last for ever. My free access may expire. The web site may close as they no longer want to offer online storage. I might delete it by mistake.

If you copy this post to another forum, have the decency to acknowledge you copied the idea from Landyzone. If you point them to this post they can use the same download link. If the link stops working I will fix it or store it on another web site, and update this post.

If anyone else has a similar manual for land rover products then please tell me. I would like to add it to my collection and put it online if possible. If...
After repairing the cruise control on my Disco 1 I decided to put all the information in one place...! This is what I did to repair my cruise control, use the information contained at your own will. I cannot be held responsible.

Cruise control system layout:

The mechanical side of the cruise control uses vacuum operated 'bellows' to pull open the throttle and adjust your speed. It does not run off engine vacuum, it has a separate pump, located behind the near side headlight below the jack. From there a pipe runs down the near side inner wing to a 'T' behind the washer bottle. 1 port on the 'T' goes to the bellows on the throttle body, the other leg of the 'T' then runs along the firewall and into the cabin just above the pedal box to the brake pedal switch.

The electronic module is located behind the glove box, next to the ABS module.


The cruise control system is a Hella system and was fitted to many cars, if your searching for parts in a scrap yard also look at 80's & 90's Audi's Volvo's VW's Jag's Citroen's Merc's & BMW's! The module part numbers are Landrover AVR 1173 Hella 5GA-004-397-**

Mechanical diagnostics:

95% of all cruise control problems are due to a vacuum leak somewhere in the system, usually on one of the joints, the rubber pipes perish and crack. Either cut the ends off or just replace them all, the pipe is cheap enough. Also check the bellows on the throttle body, they can crack and leak. The brake pedal valve also has been known to leak. A classic sign of leaky pipes or bellows is the cruise control gets progressively lazy at holding speed until you get to a point when it just won't hold speed at all. I saw one that would hold speed on the flat but on a slight incline would slow down, the bellows had a pin hole in it, we repaired it with a bike puncture repair kit.

Electronic diagnostics:

If your engine check light is on then cruise control is disabled so check that...
I am a big fan of Preventative Maintenance - makes my life easier, the ability to try and spot potential faults or failures in advance and also prevents further damage to other components.

A couple of weeks ago in the very hot weather we have had (not that the recent days have been any better) but on the long slog between Guildford Train Station and the A31 Hogs Back which is a few miles long up a moderate but steady gradient after being stuck in Guildford town centre traffic and stop start driving popping into B&Q, Wickes, Tile Warehouse.....etc etc etc, the Gearbox went into its cooling stratergy, it holds the lower gears and prevents upshifts to raise engine revs and as such gearbox pump speed to try and circulate as much fluid through the cooler as possible to reduce box temperature.

This process is totally normal and should prevent the dreaded TRANS. OVERHEAT warning....if you ge tthat - you have issues that require looking at ASAP to try and save the box!

In a over a year of ownership, this is the first time it has ever gone into the Cool Down stratergy and hasn't done it since.

Last week on my girlfriends birthday, we went to Woburn Safari Park (we go every year on her birthday, she loves the place) and we spent 8 hours crawling around in 27degC heat, A/C on (off whenever we had the windows open in the pens were we weren't going to get eaten!) stopping and starting, hills, no shade etc and she never even murmoured, gearbox fine, cooling system fine.

BUT, taking note of the cooling stratergy and the reports that the oil cooler is only just capable of the job, I thought best to replace it in anycase and whilst I was there also replace the Cooler thermostat and back plate too.

The Back Plate is plastic and over years of heating and cooling, can become brittle and leak coolant - this is apparently a common fail item (what isn't on these things?) so for the sake of another £30 odd best replace it.

The Thermostat has been known to fail, I wouldn't...

Replacing a diff pinion oil seal on Rover axles.

First take out the fill plug for your axle (just to check it will come out!) then take out the drain axle and let the oil drain into a suitable container.

Then remove the propshaft by undoing the 4 bolts holding it to the diff output flange. I found a propshaft tool wasn’t that easier than 2 spanners to be honest. Tie it up securely out of the way.
You should then see this, straighten and pull the split pin out.

Undo that big nut, it’s a 1 inch jobbie and should be farking tight. I used a big breaker bar and a wrench on the flange to hold it still. DO NOT tug on it if you have half the vehicle on axle stands as tugging this nut causes the vehicle to move and it could come down on you head and kill you. I had all 4 wheels on the floor for this, wheels chocked.
When the nut is off it will look like this

Pull of the drive flange, it should come off by hand, if not encourage it with a rubber mallet. Make a note of the order of any washers/spacers that come off with it. Now you can see the drive splines and the seal itself. I have lots of splines, some people might only have 4 chunky ones. That’s fine. My seal looks ok but the inner lip was quite worn. Have a look at your drive flange you just removed, make sure the surface the seal runs on is smooth and clean, if its pitted or ridged it will need replacing....
Hi Chaps,

Just though those of you of a pre 1960 motoring disposition may be interested as you may not have come up for renewal yet.

My Road Fund License renewal came through the post this month for my 1952 80".

When I tried to tax it on-line the site informed me that I could not proceed as there was no valid MOT certificate in the system for the vehicle for the date of renewal.

Quite correct, my current MOT is due to expire on the 19th June.

However the date of 1st registration on my V5 is clearly 1st March 1952.

When I mentioned this on the LRSOC forum 233ac pointed me to the "Declaration of exemption from MOT testing" form "V112" on the DFT website

Downloadable forms

Scroll down and download the V112, fill it out and present it in absentia of your MOT certificate.

I just taxed my 80" for another year for the delightful sum of £0. In fact in total it cost me 50p to park in town.

That said, I will still at some stage in the not too distant future present SFF at an MOT testing station for my own peace of mind, I just don't think I will have the opportunity this month.
Anti Burst locks as used on 'fenders can befitted to Series doors with minor modications...


395038 - door handle
395037 - door handle
FQB000050 - anti burst catch
FQB000040 - anti burst catch
395056 - locks

Door... Needs an extra hole drilling in it for the lock, best to take the old lock out and line up the new lock to work out where the hole is... I didn't really do a very good job at this...



On mine (which i'm now thinking might be bent...) the drivers side doesn't line up just bolting the new catch in place of the old one...


However, using one of the spaces from the old catches does the job perfectly:


Door needs a gentle shut to securely shut, however ,a proper little slam for the lock to fully engage and allow it to be locked.

For some reason my passenger side catch needed recessing, so, i cut a hole for it with the dremel...


The bottom slots in and bolts as normal, but i used a longer M10 bolt at the top to brace it against the back of the bulkhead......
Some clunking was occuring beneath my Landrover. After lots of poking about I ascertained it was either a) the front diff or b) the gearbox output shaft/transfer box input shaft wear. I have an LT77 Gearbox and an LT230 transfer box.

I started with examining the wear on the gearbox/transfer box - there was some on the transfer box gear but it was minimal. This wear is a well documented fault with the early LT230's were not enough oil gets to the splines causing wear and eventually loss of drive due to the splines stripping. Land Rover rectified this by introducing a retro-fit oil feed plate to direct oil at the splines, and they later introduced a cross drilled shaft in the transfer box. These 2 solutions essentially stopped the premature wear. Either one is effective, you don't have to do both. Ashcroft Transmission were excellent at giving me advice and providing me with an oil feed plate.

Here is how I went about fitting it:

1. First take off your cubby box/centre seat and remove the access panel underneath in order to access the top of the transfer box. This is the view that you should see - mark a line across the top of the transfer box like I have (the white line) this is to help line it all up when you put it back together as the bolt holes are not evenly spaced around the PTO cover - undo these 6 bolts.

2. Remove the PTO cover plate, it may need a tap with a hide mallet to unstick it. You may or may not have a gasket underneath it, either re-use it, get a new one or some RTV sealant when you re-assemble....
ABS Fault appeared spuriously as in this thread - http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/im-lonely-lets-throw-fault-213774.html

And following on from my Recurring ABS Issue Thread - http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/recurring-abs-fault-222079.html

I ordered the replacement ABS Short Harness from my local LR Dealer (Hunters in Guildford) and it arrived the next day (£30.02 May 2013)....
So as yesterday was a great day weather-wise, I thought I would give it a go.

Reading the offical Land Rover Technical Bulletin (attached in the Second link above) the procedure is to unwrap the ABS short Harness and then splice in the replacement harness. They state the use of Crimp connections, but I am not a fan of those so I decided to solder and sleeve my connections, and because I was not using bulky Crimp connections I would not have to stagger the joints (which is a pain to do).

First up is to place the bonnet into Service Mode (read my Radiator How To in the How To Section)

Next is to disconnect the battery - remember to wait for the Sat Nav unit to turn off first (read my Fuel Pump How To in the How To Section)

The Replacement Harness from LR....


The Original Short Harness.....

Lever open the locking catch on the ABS connection

Remove the ABS Connection

Undo the Earth Connection


Using a small screw driver, lever the tabs on the Connection and take the top off

Start unwrapping the original harness to expose the wiring loom - there is a lot...
Taken from Original thread

Just finished the replacement. what a job!!!! I put some copper paste on the front of the sleeve hopefully will be all ok. One thing i was not sure about...should i get rid of the plastic protector or fix it back?

As my religion says Below are some pics. together with the procedure for anyone who might need it

1. Started undoing bolts on the actual bonnet like someone said in one of these threads (size 10)
2. 1st bolt out, 2nd bolt was made of cheese or a similar material, head got rounded off (you might be lucky at this stage and the two bolts come out)
3. Got a spare catch-and-latch
4. Cut existing catch bolt


5. Bonnet pops up as if you have pulled the cable
6. Removed top radiator holds
7. Removed Bumper (4 screws in wheel arch to dismantle gaiter, 1 bolt beneath headlamp size 10 On each side & 4 screws at bottom from valance to sump guard and 3 clips at top of bottom grill)


8. Push radiator backwards and drill the rivets on the plastic cover
9. With a soldering iron, melt the whereabouts of the rivets you cant drill (if you havent taken the rad completely out that is)
10. Undo bolts (size 10) holding spring mechanism
11. re route new cable (loop end to mechanism, pin end to handle in footwell)
12. clip gromit in
13. test
14. re assemble
15. replace or refit catch-and-latch mechanism
16. slacken bottom bolts of latch and slowly close bonnet (this is to re-align the two parts)
17. open bonnet an re-tighten
18. sing alelulia

Hope this has been useful and the too-many-details are for those who are having a go at it. I reckon a garage would charge some good money for this job so worth a go-at
Right, im going to give it a go a and do a write up of my PCV replacement :D
Although im not great at stuff like this, so prob wont be as good as saintV8's stuff.

If you have a 4.4 v8 i really cant stress this enough to do this if it hasnt been done.

My cam covers started to weep and my MPG started dropping off recently, and when i looked into it and searched around i found out that this is a prety major and common issue on the L322


I checked my two top hoses and they were fine, (probably replaced when the LPG kit was fitted)
(6759A and 6759B on the diagram)

So i removed the cyclone (6B673 on the diagram), which is easy enough, 2 hoses at the top and one at the bottom.
The cyclone is held on by one bolt, and the cyclone itself is threaded so no need to worry about a nut. Just the bolt.

One removed it was clear just how blocked it was with gunk, so i soaked it on degreaser and flushed it out with a hose and left to dry
Sorry i dont have any pics of this, but its fairly self explanatory.

Next i tackled the PCV valve which i bought direct from guy salmon along with the gasket
PCV valve - LKR000040
PCV gasket - LKJ000060

Put the bonnet into service mode by releasing the gas struts and locking it in place
You will need to disconnect the battery and the +lead in the engine bay in order to get the vent block out, the vent block is helt in with 2 13mm nuts, one either side and are obvious, with these 2 removed and the + bat leas disconnected it just slides out with very little effort

With the vent block removed it makes access to the rear of the engine much easier, the cam covers of the engine is safe...