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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

Some clunking was occuring beneath my Landrover. After lots of poking about I ascertained it was either a) the front diff or b) the gearbox output shaft/transfer box input shaft wear. I have an LT77 Gearbox and an LT230 transfer box.

I started with examining the wear on the gearbox/transfer box - there was some on the transfer box gear but it was minimal. This wear is a well documented fault with the early LT230's were not enough oil gets to the splines causing wear and eventually loss of drive due to the splines stripping. Land Rover rectified this by introducing a retro-fit oil feed plate to direct oil at the splines, and they later introduced a cross drilled shaft in the transfer box. These 2 solutions essentially stopped the premature wear. Either one is effective, you don't have to do both. Ashcroft Transmission were excellent at giving me advice and providing me with an oil feed plate.

Here is how I went about fitting it:

1. First take off your cubby box/centre seat and remove the access panel underneath in order to access the top of the transfer box. This is the view that you should see - mark a line across the top of the transfer box like I have (the white line) this is to help line it all up when you put it back together as the bolt holes are not evenly spaced around the PTO cover - undo these 6 bolts.

2. Remove the PTO cover plate, it may need a tap with a hide mallet to unstick it. You may or may not have a gasket underneath it, either re-use it, get a new one or some RTV sealant when you re-assemble....
ABS Fault appeared spuriously as in this thread - http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/im-lonely-lets-throw-fault-213774.html

And following on from my Recurring ABS Issue Thread - http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/recurring-abs-fault-222079.html

I ordered the replacement ABS Short Harness from my local LR Dealer (Hunters in Guildford) and it arrived the next day (£30.02 May 2013)....
So as yesterday was a great day weather-wise, I thought I would give it a go.

Reading the offical Land Rover Technical Bulletin (attached in the Second link above) the procedure is to unwrap the ABS short Harness and then splice in the replacement harness. They state the use of Crimp connections, but I am not a fan of those so I decided to solder and sleeve my connections, and because I was not using bulky Crimp connections I would not have to stagger the joints (which is a pain to do).

First up is to place the bonnet into Service Mode (read my Radiator How To in the How To Section)

Next is to disconnect the battery - remember to wait for the Sat Nav unit to turn off first (read my Fuel Pump How To in the How To Section)

The Replacement Harness from LR....


The Original Short Harness.....

Lever open the locking catch on the ABS connection

Remove the ABS Connection

Undo the Earth Connection


Using a small screw driver, lever the tabs on the Connection and take the top off

Start unwrapping the original harness to expose the wiring loom - there is a lot...
Taken from Original thread

Just finished the replacement. what a job!!!! I put some copper paste on the front of the sleeve hopefully will be all ok. One thing i was not sure about...should i get rid of the plastic protector or fix it back?

As my religion says Below are some pics. together with the procedure for anyone who might need it

1. Started undoing bolts on the actual bonnet like someone said in one of these threads (size 10)
2. 1st bolt out, 2nd bolt was made of cheese or a similar material, head got rounded off (you might be lucky at this stage and the two bolts come out)
3. Got a spare catch-and-latch
4. Cut existing catch bolt


5. Bonnet pops up as if you have pulled the cable
6. Removed top radiator holds
7. Removed Bumper (4 screws in wheel arch to dismantle gaiter, 1 bolt beneath headlamp size 10 On each side & 4 screws at bottom from valance to sump guard and 3 clips at top of bottom grill)


8. Push radiator backwards and drill the rivets on the plastic cover
9. With a soldering iron, melt the whereabouts of the rivets you cant drill (if you havent taken the rad completely out that is)
10. Undo bolts (size 10) holding spring mechanism
11. re route new cable (loop end to mechanism, pin end to handle in footwell)
12. clip gromit in
13. test
14. re assemble
15. replace or refit catch-and-latch mechanism
16. slacken bottom bolts of latch and slowly close bonnet (this is to re-align the two parts)
17. open bonnet an re-tighten
18. sing alelulia

Hope this has been useful and the too-many-details are for those who are having a go at it. I reckon a garage would charge some good money for this job so worth a go-at
Right, im going to give it a go a and do a write up of my PCV replacement :D
Although im not great at stuff like this, so prob wont be as good as saintV8's stuff.

If you have a 4.4 v8 i really cant stress this enough to do this if it hasnt been done.

My cam covers started to weep and my MPG started dropping off recently, and when i looked into it and searched around i found out that this is a prety major and common issue on the L322


I checked my two top hoses and they were fine, (probably replaced when the LPG kit was fitted)
(6759A and 6759B on the diagram)

So i removed the cyclone (6B673 on the diagram), which is easy enough, 2 hoses at the top and one at the bottom.
The cyclone is held on by one bolt, and the cyclone itself is threaded so no need to worry about a nut. Just the bolt.

One removed it was clear just how blocked it was with gunk, so i soaked it on degreaser and flushed it out with a hose and left to dry
Sorry i dont have any pics of this, but its fairly self explanatory.

Next i tackled the PCV valve which i bought direct from guy salmon along with the gasket
PCV valve - LKR000040
PCV gasket - LKJ000060

Put the bonnet into service mode by releasing the gas struts and locking it in place
You will need to disconnect the battery and the +lead in the engine bay in order to get the vent block out, the vent block is helt in with 2 13mm nuts, one either side and are obvious, with these 2 removed and the + bat leas disconnected it just slides out with very little effort

With the vent block removed it makes access to the rear of the engine much easier, the cam covers of the engine is safe...
So a follow on to my previous thread...


Local Autofactors had the pump on the shelf for £68 odd +VAT, so after dropping the Girlfriend off at work, I went to pick it up.

Also picked up another 5 litres of Coolant concentrate.

Got home, and got started...

First things is to place the bonnet in Service Mode, and remove the Viscous Fan and Shroud...see my Radiator How To for how this is achieved.

Next is to loosen the pulley bolts as this is easier with belt tension to hold the pulley

Loosen the Belt Tensioner locking bolts (2 of them) to relieve the tension on the belt

Slip the belt off

Unclip the pipes to the Alternator and the top of the Water Pump...these have little spring clips on, so lever the clip up and pull the hose off!

Next is to remove the Secondary Air Injection pipe work from in front of the pump, this is a bit of a fiddle as the L/H bank (R/H as facing engine) is hidden under the rocker cover and has to be done by feel....I remove the wrong bolt at first and was about 2” long....this is the wrong bolt, the correct one is...
First things first....

Tools required:
8mm Allen key for Sump and Fill/Level plugs
T27 Torx bit for Sump bolts and Filter Bolts
Stanley Blade/Gasket Scrapper/Wide Screwdriver
Plenty of Rags
Drip Tray
Receptacle for Oil
Method of refilling (I used a pressure sprayer attached to a length of flexible hose)
Degreaser/cleaning products

Always use the correct grade of ATF for the L322 Gearboxes – considering the price of this stuff, shopping around helps.
I bought 7 litres from a local VW/Audi place as theirs was the cheapest I could get hold of in the time I had....£11.70 a litre with the VAT. LR was £14 odd plus the VAT so was about £16-17 ish a litre...
VW part number G-052-162-A2

Raise Vehicle – Now before everyone goes bandy, I know driving up 4 ramps is a no-no, but I needed access underneath for a larger than average person and also have the vehicle level to drain and refill the box.

Climb underneath and laugh at the ‘Filled for Life’ sticker.. :D

On first inspection underneath, it looks like there has been a fluid leak from the front corner of the sump




OK, now before you do anything there are couple of Must Do steps

Spray some penetrating fluid on to the sump bolts, drain and fill plugs

Make sure you have a viable and working method of refilling the box, I used a cheap pressure Fence Sprayer from Homebase (£14.99) and took the little plastic filter off the end of the delivery tube, cut the yellow plastic tube shorter and attached some flexible hose to that so I could feed it into the fill hole....
Following the discovery of a tiny hole and leak in the front face of the Radiator and losing about a litre of coolant every 10 days or so. I decided it was time the change the Radiator.

Island4x4 where the cheapest option with the best delivery deal (£163.99 delivered and VAT – Nov 2012) – no affiliation just a satisfied customer....Delivered within 2 days (Ordered on a Friday evening – delivered first thing Tuesday), the unit is a genuine Hella/BEHR OEM radiator and came very well packaged.

In order to remove the rad easily it is best to remove the Viscous Fan and Shroud, there are reports of being able to do it without removing them, but space is limited, and the last thing I wanted was to bounce the rad off the fan or shroud while sliding it back in again!

The VC Fan can be undone with a sharp tap on the spanner, but I have never really had much luck doing that, plus my VC Spanner is quite short and there wasn’t much spanner to hit......not having the correct tool to hold the pulley, I decided to fabricate one. I used a length of 1” flat bar about 3mm thick and 4 M12 Half Nuts, the assembly is below:




So on to the job:

Make sure you have everything to hand:
· Gloves
· Pulley Spanner
· 32mm VC Fan Spanner...
Hello all,

just thought id share some info on my recent work done to my TD6 L322.

as some may know, the td4 engine (fitted to the freelander) and TD6 engine as fitted to the L322 often suffer from blocked PCV / crankcase breather filters... mostly often due to poor service and maintenance. and because the filter change was never really noted down on the service procedure list !!

so they very rarely get changed ! and once clogged up they will quickly kill your turbo...

early signs are excessive black smoke / soot from the exhausts and pressure within the oil system. ie if you remove your oil dipstick with the engine running and oil squirts out, the chances are your breather filter is blocked.

anyhow, i have done this mod to my old freelander with the TD4 engine as was experiencing the early signs of the blockage. since owning the l322 i had wondered if they also had the same problem.....

well they do. infact the td4 and td6 are pretty much identical engines par the 2 extra cylinders on the td6. so most of the parts are interchangeable :D:D:D

so as there doesnt seem to be any info regarding the L322 upgrade i thought id write a page to help any other TD6 owners :)

basically BMW has introduced a crankcase filter upgrade... basically replaces the cotton type filter with a plastic cyclone type filter.

the new type filter is maintenance free, so never needs changing, unlike the crappy cotton type that gets blocked over time.

the upgrade is very easy to do and shouldn't take more that 20 mins to complete.

good luck ;)

first things first. remove the engine cover's to gain access to the crankcase breather unit that is located in the far, back left hand side of the engine as pictured. (next to the air intake filter)


What the Fuel Burning Heater (FBH) does (Courtesy of Rhodie)
The M47 diesel engine is so efficient, that it produces very little waste heat to warm the coolant up to a reasonable temperature within a reasonable distance. The issue is often made worse by a coolant thermostat, which as it ages opens too early, so winter or summer, the engine never achieves its designed working temperature. There is no point installing an FBH unless your stat is working properly at is design opening temperature of 88C.

The FBH is configured to shut off at 77C and if your stat opens at below this temperature, then it will continue to run indefinitely in cold weather, wasting its warmth to atmosphere via the radiator.

Check your car's normal running temperature via the OBD dash diagnostics for an accurate temperature and if once warmed up it is much below 88C, either install a replacement OEM stat (expensive) or the cheap option of a second stat in the top hose (cheap fix). A problem with the stat, needs to be addressed early, rather than waste fuel running the FBH unnecessarily.
Then undo more of the 5x Torx bolts visible behind where you have removed the pump from, to separate the first section of casing, be careful not to bend the metal fuel pipe as you pull that first section away - ease it through the rubber bung.

Water pump removed and you can just see the exhaust flue pipe stub sticking out on the left. Black plastic cover on the right hides the combustion air fan.
That should then reveal 4x more Torx bolts holding the burner unit into the heat exchanger. Undo those, but be aware there is a soft thick paper gasket between the two, which is bound to have split in one place - take care not to make it any worse.

Brass coloured object, with the dog-legged pipe emerging from it is the burner unit. Dog-legged pipe is the fuel pipe.
Inside the heat exchanger, from where the burner has just been removed. Surrounding the hole you can see the pale green paper...

You climb in your prized P38 and try to start the engine. The engine cranks but doesn’t fire. There are no error messages and all seems to be working as it should. You pull the engine apart checking fuses, air, fuel, the lot but still nothing appears wrong. Chances are your engine management system (EMS) has gone out of synch with the Body Electrical Control Module (BECM).

What is it?

On the diesel there is a static code in the engine management system. When you try to start this code is checked against the code held in the BECM. If the two don’t match then the engine will crank but not start (note: the petrol models have rolling codes and probably won’t crank.) The only way to resynchronise the 2 is using a bespoke piece of kit, one of which is the Nanocom Evolution from Black-box Solutions (no affiliation). Other devices are available, not least the Synchmate also by BBS but I’ve not tried that.

How to fix it: step-by-step guide.

1) Open up the passenger door of your P38 diesel and look under the right-hand-side of the glove box, close to the centre console. There should be a white ODBII-type plug socket.



2) Put the key in the ignition and turn until the lights appear on the dash but do not try to crank.
3) Plug in your Nanocom Evolution. After a few moments the screen should light up.
4) With a blunt tool (such as a broken pencil) or finger select “R-Rover P38” on the Nanocom.


5) On the next screen select “EDC”.


6) On the next screen select “EDC”, again.


7) On the next screen select “Settings”.


8) At the bottom of the screen it should say EMS code. Make a note of this as you’ll need it in a minute. Press the red cross in the bottom-right-hand corner of the screen twice to come out of the screen and back to the EDC menu screen....