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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Oct
08
the EGR system redirects exhaust gases back into the engine along with fresh air through the inlet manifold. this was done to reduce exhaust emissions but can over time clog up the system & reduce performance

The first thing most disco owners do is fit a blanking plate between the egr pipe & the exhaust manifold.

you can get the blanking plate kits from here

the following threads give excellent tips, advice & fitting instructions

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/td...itting-my-tips-41368.html?highlight=egr+plate

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/disco-can-breathe-again-45369.html?highlight=egr+blanking

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/td5-mpg-over-1300-miles-45085-4.html

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/egr-blanking-plate-43194.html?highlight=egr+blanking

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/egr-dreaded-subject-43049.html?highlight=egr+blanking

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/egr-blanking-behaviour-joy-40527.html?highlight=egr+blanking
Oct
08
this is a common problem caused by the air-con drains becoming blocked

see these posts for details & solutions

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/td5-air-con-drains-32961.html

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/air-con-drains-45684.html
Oct
08
Can be downloaded here as PDFs FOC

List of PDFs

or as the iso images below.

land rover rave technical system

rave01 = Range rover P38, Discovery 2, Defender 300tdi/Td5/v8, Freelander 1.8/td4/v6

rave02 = Range Rover P38 and L322, Defender 200/300tdi and v8

rave03 = Range Rover classic tdi/v8, Discovery 1995 onwards mpi/Tdi/v8, Freelander 1.8/L series

The rave disks download as .iso image files. After downloading them you need to use magiciso, 7-zip or winzip type programs to open them, to allow you to copy the rave folder out of the .iso image file.

For Freelander 2 manuals you need to look ere: Freelander 2 repair and maintenance manual

Online parts lists:

Land Rover parts

Allbrit MG ROVER & Mini Classic Teilekataloge
Sep
10
1) Sign up at any photo hosting website (ie: Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket)
2) Once you have an account, follow the link to upload pictures.
3) Once a picture is uploaded, you will see a link is provided beside the IMG field below the picture (that's why I like photobucket cause they have the link below the picture, hence, not all photo host provide that.)
4) Copy the link and paste it on the message like

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t66/the_mad_hat_man/P8270182.jpg[IMG]

the second [IMG] should have a / before the IMG. It's taken out purposely for demonsration. With the / you will get this:

[IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t66/the_mad_hat_man/P8270182.jpg
Aug
18
Greetings all,

I am new to the forum so I thought I would make a contribution.
My 02 Freelander recently kicked out the Good Ol' F4 code on the dash panel, and I am going to attempt fix it myself.:cool:

The day it happened, I "limped" into Land Rover Tulsa to have it checked out. After sitting around for few hours, the tech tells me that the ECU is throwing a code for the solenoid, and it would cost a cool grand ( £500 ) to fix, or it would be 3 thousand US ( £1500 ) for a rebuilt gearbox to be installed. :mad:

I subsequently purchased the parts and brought the beast back to my house for repair.:cool:

Here is the battle plan:

1. ) Easiest fix first: I have heard that by pulling the battery for a half hour and letting it sit, you can sometimes get around a repair, as the ECU might be throwing a false code. I figure it's worth a try, but not likely. The Gaylander is sitting without a battery as I type this.

2.) Go after the 2/4 shift solenoid. I understand this will be the most likely to go out... Reverse works fine, First works, and I haven't had a lock-out on the gearbox, so I think I am on the right track. The other 2/4 solenoid may be the culprit as well, but I will cross that bridge when I get there.

3.) Take it to Salt Flats up in the panhandle, and bury it, change my name so I don't have to pay the note, and pack my things and head to Mexico. Maybe trade it for a Toyota. More likely the latter.

I will include pictures as I go along, should anyone need them for reference later on. This should be at the very least interesting.

Wish me luck!
Mar
22
Came across this so I thought I'd give it its own fred to make it esier to find. Some of them may be in Johnny Forieigner language.

LAND ROVER MANUALS DOWNLOAD
Jan
05
These are the bits you should need

CDPL06G01 6mm > 1/8" bspp (90 swivel elbow) £1.14ea x3
CDPU06 6mm (straight coupler) £1.07ea x1
CDPUT06 6mm (T) £1.65ea x2
PNFM6/4BK 6mm nylon tube (30m) £17.86

(the part no's are CDG pnumatics and prices from cotswold hydraulics)

Welcome to Cotswold Engineering Supplies

all the prices are plus VAT

(To make it even cheaper put the T in place of the coupler on the gearbox line (see pics) and connect the transfer box to it)



These are pics of my breathers using the same make parts as above (only i've used manifold and got one on the timing cover)

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Sep
14
This mite be useful.

includes heater fix, VCU bearing and IRD rebuild on a deisel Hippo.

http://www.thesysadmin.co.uk/hippo/fixes/index.html
Sep
14
This mite be useful.

includes heater fix, VCU bearing and IRD rebuild on a deisel Hippo.

http://www.thesysadmin.co.uk/hippo/fixes/index.html
Jul
21
Of all the things that could go wrong it had to be the timing belt !!!!!

After searching around and doing a little research on the 200tdi engine, I decided that the best idea would be for me to strip down and rebuild any damage myself.
So I thought I would do a kind of step by step description of what I did/found. So here goes.
First things first for those who are not sure (I wasn’t before I started) The 200tdi and 300tdi Land Rover engines are Four cylinder in-line over head valve, so the amount of damage from a timing belt break should be minimal. The first job was to remove the rocker cover to see if I could see any damage, and sure enough there was. 6 of the 8 pushrods were bent, a sure sign that the belt had gone if I was in any doubt before.

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So now its time to get down to the timing belt housing, This was a little more complex than I had imagined it would be, so here are a list of bits to be removed:-
First you should remove all water pipes to the pump, and hoses from the intercooler to increase access.

Then the viscous coupling and fan should be loosend, a special spanner is required here so I made my own, you need a 32 mm with a crank in it.
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To remove the fan you must remove the cowling screws amd retract the fan and cowling together.
Then comes the water pump, being careful to make note of the bolt positions as they are different lengths.
Remove the alternator
Remove the power steering pump and place it on the steering arms or somewhere equally secure, there is no need to remove the pipes/ pump from the vehicle.
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If you vehicle has air conditioning the pump must be removed, ensuring that the pipes are not disturbed, the pump can be placed out of the way gently.
Next you must remove the Crankshaft pulley and damper,(note that upon...